MONGO510

Back fire thru carb could be lean condition, timing issue, or flat cam lobe. Check fuel supply first.

Excellent!!

Very nice!!! Mongo

To soften copper gaskets and O-rings for reuse, heat them to red hot and drop them in cold water. They will go dead soft and reseal nicely! Mongo

Does this mean your M-Powered Z Lives? Mongo

http://tinyurl.com/y8mktb5

Your cylinder is probably frozen. You will need 2 tools to remove the drum. An old hack saw blade and a brake adjusting spoon. Put a bend in the last 1/2" of one end of the blade. You will use this to lift the adjusting arm off of the star wheel. Spray large amounts of WD40 or similar around the stud holes and theaxle end to help loosen the drum. Remove the brake line, push the rubber boot off to the side, Looking inside of the drum thru the uncovered slot, locate the star wheel, Slip the blade inside the slot(on top of the adjuster wheel) and push the adjuster lever away from the star. Insert the brake spoon into the slot and rotate the star in the opposite direction of normal operation. This will back off the adjuster allowing removal of drum. If you are lucky you may be able to access the adjuster from the hole in the axle face side of the drum. You still will need to pry up the adjusting lever. Take a good look at your new cylinder and it will help you to visualize what you need to do. If you are real unlucky, you may have to take the drum off in pieces! Good luck! Mongo

Thanks for the info! I am working with the Performance trends software. If I can figure it out it will be very useful! John(mongo)

Just remove the excess grease. It should be fine. Mongo

There are also 2 types of Maxima bracket. There were 2 different diameters of rotor used on the various years. One bracket spaced the caliper out farther than the other to compensate for the larger diameter. It looks to me like you have a mismatched set. Mongo

Cancel its Visa!

String! Great idea! I can do that! Any Ideas how much camber change/in. of travel should be designed into the system? Car will primarily be used for Hill Climbs, AutoX, and occasional street joy rides(will be street legal). Mongo

So here is one of the mods I am working on now! This will be mounted to the floor inside the car using the existing mustache bar mounting points. Shocks will be monoshocks from a motorcycle. Does anyone have a computer program to calculate what the length of the upper control arm should be? Should it be parallel to the lower C-arm? Ideas? Mongo

So here is one of the mods I am working on now! This will be mounted to the floor inside the car using the existing mustache bar mounting points. Shocks will be monoshocks from a motorcycle. Does anyone have a computer program to calculate what the length of the upper control arm should be? Should it be parallel to the lower C-arm? Ideas? Mongo

Were these the original shocks? If so, did you remove the large o-ring from under the gland nut? The originals were not cartridges. Was there a oil seal in the gland nut? If so you have OE shocks.

If I recall correctly, there are no gaskets for the domes. Round top SU's only had a gasket for the float bowl. Flat top carbs were a throw away(73-74)

If it absolutely must be moved, back the trailer into the driveway and right up to the car and load it. If needed, use a comealong to lower it down the driveway onto the trailer.

I looked at buying a new 1970 Hemicuda with all peformance options. $4200!! I wish I had bought it! Mongo

I suspect that you have a timing indicator that is incorrect or a nonstock pulley. If you initially were running 34 deg. advance at idle, by the time the mechanical advance kicked in you would be running 40+ degs. of advance. Detonation would almost be guaranteed. I would check your indicators accuracy. Mongo

I have been looking for hours:( and can not find any information on what is the desirable suspension travel on a caged 260Z to be used for AutoX, Hillclimbs, and Trackdays. What are you guys running? 4 in.? 6 In.?10? Any suggestions are welcomed. Thanks, Mongo

Check fuel filter, may be plugged. Check all Main wiring connectors under the dash on pass. side. Unplug them, inspect, reconnect them. Sounds like a wire is loosing connection due to high resistance. I always fill connectors with anti oxidizing paste before reassembly. Get it anywhere home wiring supplies are sold. Good Luck! Mongo

Lol!!!

I have them! $10/pair + shipping. Mongo

Hey guys, I am in need of a pair of used adjustable coilover shocks( for a mockup), that are capable of handling high spring loadings. 300-450 lbs Something like you would find on a formula car or sports racer. They need to have a relatively short extended length, no greater than 14-15 in., and even shorter would be better. I am hoping to build a double A-arm/Rocker arm rear suspension that can be retro fitted into my Z. I have a rear clip that was donated by "BRAAP" to use to mock it up. This will use a seriously shortened strut as an "upright" and a fully adjustable rocker arm in place of the strut cartridge/isolater. Anyone got anything like this for a reasonable price? Thanks, Mongo

Yeah but she revs real fast!!