Z-Gad

Sounds more like ring lands than rings to me... been there, done that...

Agreed

Yep, lookin good Gabe!!

When I drove my former daily driver 240Z up north to the frozen tundra of PA a few years ago, I had a similar issue when I reached a cooler climate somewhere around Virginia (less than 40*). I had no power and it would struggle to get going from a stop. I turned the knobs under the carburetors a half turn counter-clockwise (looking at them from the bottom) to drop the carn nozzles slightly, richening the mixture, and it ran a little better. I turned them another half turn and it ran like it was supposed to...no stumbling and plenty of get up and go... When I returned to Florida a week later, I just leaned the carbs back out. Regards, mike

Loved the T-66 on my car, ran a .58 a/r and had full boost ~3700 rpm's Enjoy!!

Try unplugging and plugging in the ECU a few times. I had a similar issue and that cured it. It may just be a bad contact....

ROFL!! Definately worth the read!! Thanks!

I had adaptors made to fit mechanical lifters in my P90A heads. I just took a hydraulic lifter and the mechanical lifter to a machine ship and said, "I want this part of the mechanical lifter to screw into a lifter boss with the diamer of the hydraulic lifter" and $200 later, I was all set.

WOW!! Whew glad you are OK!! That Subtle Z kit is HOT!! Do you think you will have it ready to join the Z caravan for the next SEZ event up to Reynolds in March?? It wouldn't be the same without your car (and you of course) there It is one of the crowd favorites. even more so once you add the body kit...

I know the rear isolators on a 280z are taller than the 240z isolators. I am not sure about the front though... You could gain an inch or so in the rear by swapping the 240z isolators in. Again, I cannot remember if the front are taller too..

I plugged in 3 different stock turbo fuel pressure regulators w/ the Walbro pump and all of them read 42 psi of pressure and the car was pig rich. I switched to a nice Aeromotive unit, adjusted the pressure to 36-37 psi and it fixed the problem. I had an issue today...driving along, anytime the car would go into boost, it would lean out and start bucking. I pulled over, unplugged the ecu, plugged it in again and viola...good as new. God it is hard to go back to factory electronics after running a stand-alone!!

Ahh, TY for the clarification...perhaps a photo of how it is hooked up might help diagnose...

It sounds like your problem could be right there That "nipple" connection is to open the valve, but only under vacuum conditions. It should be run to your intake manifold, anywhere on the plenum after the throttlebody. When you are under positive pressure (boost), the positive pressure holds the valve closed (so it doesn't leak) until the throttle closes. When you step off the gas, the throttle closes, a vacuum condition occurs in the manifold, that line to the nipple on the BOV valve goes under vacuum as well, and the valve opens, releasing the pressure. Psssssssst!!

Good luck w/ the sale. That price is a bargain for your setup!! I am sure that rod knock will not be an issue for James as I am sure there will be nothing stock about it. 8)

Thanks for remembering me Rick 8) I think I have a project they would go very nice on BTW, those look awesome on your car!!

Awesome work James. I am sure you will have another happy "SpeedShopThagard" customer!!

I don't see it causing any harm if everything is adjusted right. If it is more of anannoyance than anything else, you can always just turn the radio up

The lash caps/lash pads do wear as well. Think about hitting a nail on the head over and over and over again. The rockers wear a "groove" (for the lack of a better term) in the top of the pads and the underside experiences some wear as well, riding on the top of the valve. The groove can be adjusted out somewhat, but the thinner (more wear on) the lash pad, the more sound it will transfer. From the experience I had, I adjusted and adjusted and once I replaced the lash pads, it quieted down. Also, the cam lobes each have a little different wipe pattern and cause a groove in the rocker arm. If you have had the rockers off and didn't place them back in the same order, or used worn rockers from another head, the cam lobes may be contacting a different spot on the rocker surface, slightly ahead or behind the previous spot and causing a mild vibration which gets transferred through the head as sound. There are only so many places in the head which can cause that sound transfer if your clearances are adjusted properly... rockers, lash caps, or cam lobes... the rockers and lash caps are the usual suspects, as the cam surface is harder than the surface in the rockers and lash caps.

lash caps...

Lookin good man!! give us the skinny on your first drive

Wow, I'm kind of floored by this as well. I can't believe you are talking about the same Ivan that I know...honest, stand up guy...surely there must be a logical explaination. I can't imagine Ivan intentionally misleading anyone... C'mon Ivan, contact this guy and get this matter resolved. I hate to see people's names dragged through the mud

Replace the lash caps w/ new ones. I had a similar issue w/ an old n/a motor and that quieted it right down.

Exactly, just get the pipe plug and plug the hole. it is not necessary if youy have a good source of boost control. It will always be a source of a possible leak, so just eliminate it now....pipe plug...

The major restriction here is the cylinder head. The inlet and outlet on the same side is really a killer. I have been around the L28 for quite some time and have seen guys make 400rwhp on basic stock internals (but not for very long reliably) with bolt on mods, but even the big hp guys with forged motors, lots of head work, and nitrous are only in the 550+ range...sorry, I'll only believe that one from a reliable source with documentation to back it up.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7930627363&category=33742 If this claim is out of an L28, I've gotta raise the BS flag on it...