OlderThanMe

Matt and Austin, Thanks! I'll definitely check it out! The school in the UK does look interesting but I'd be way over there... I'm not sure if it would be worth it being that far away. Thanks guys!

Thoughts? You pay WAYYY too much for spray paint...lol Honestly though...looks like a narrow air dam from the YZ body it... Very cool!

Austin, I didn't think your car could be any cleaner... Now that IC setup is CLEAN!!!!!! Hmm... There is some motor on that engine stand back there..some secret new Z powering device? Looks great! ~Dan

woohoo! Looks awesome phil!!

almost exactly like the old sketch I did... I thought about doing that widening idea a while back... I'd want to widen the doors as well... Your project looks awesome!!! Good luck with it!!!

http://www.city.ac.uk/sems/undergraduate/mechauto/index.html I heard about this and it looks really cool! I am thinking about possibly transferring there this year...maybe...maybe not. What do y'all think about it? Thanks!

Thanks for the info guys! My motor is different from a lot of guys motors here...A bunch of guys build motors for top end power for use with an automatic tranny for drag racing... I am going to be using a manual tranny and road racing/hot street driving the car...That means I need a wide power range to be effective. With an L-series motor you can rev the daylights out of it and not crack the block...I don't think I've ever seen a L6 that cracked from stress...I've seen holed blocks and such but never cracks. I guess I need to get used to the lower rev limit with a V8 than with an L6. Thanks for the info guys! I guess I'll start gathering parts this summer! What fun!

My Babies...

Then this summer I'll look for a 351 in the JY (I'll be a scavanger for parts and such) I delivered a pizza to a guy that had a fox body 'stang in the garage with a 351 dart block motor...760 N/A hp on race gas no spray...lol I am thinking that a stock spec windsor block should hold that much boosted power... I don't want to get too crazy with a stroker but some good pistons with internals that give a good r/s ratio. I am probably going to build everything overkill to hold up against some detonation I guess. I'll probably want to warm up the boost a little bit too after I get it tuned. Only time will tell... Terry, are you staying N/A?

lol...

PAUL!!!! That's SWEET!!! I ALMOST got a pearl white Z32TT but then I figured that I needed something to haul L6 stuff around in so...Frontier crew cab... Almost A Z32 2+2... VG33E, 4 seats... in 2 years it will be time for a standalone, turbos, and 4x4 conversion... Rock on with your sweet new Z32!!!

Well after a bunch of reading on turbomustangs.com it is fairly aparent that a stock 302 block splits at 500hp. I am looking to build a ford short block that can spin up high and make more than 500hp. One idea I had was replace the 302 crank with a 289 crank(reduce rotating mass) which may help in not splitting the block. There is also the option of getting hold of a 351 block and building that. I don't want to buy an aftermarket block because of the $$$$ problem. I plan on all forged internals anyway so that should hold way more power than I am planning on making anyway. I am leaning toward finding a 351 and building that rather than a 302/289 engine since they have a tendency to split. I'm looking at the putting out maybe in the low-mid 20psi range with good internals and aluminum heads. The article in the hot-rod magazine about the internals on a Nelson engine is really straight forward and I'll probably do similar processes on my build. Any help on this would be greatly apreciated! Thanks guys!

Mike at thepowdercoater.com usually charges $10 per cylinder for valve covers. I think he said $150 for a stripped clean block. At my Pull-a-part you can get valve covers for like $10-12 off of an L6. Mike: "TimZ" was the inspiration for that paint scheme...

Mike!! What an awesome find!!! I had found those videos on google a long time ago and have drooled over them for the longest time!!!!

Money is usually a complication... For power in the 300hp and less range you might as well stay N/A and build it. For power over that then it gets REALLY $$$$$$$$$ to stay N/A... I am doubling (or more!?!?) the cubes and adding a pair of power adders for my next motor... Maybe I'll even run E85 if I can find a good source for it! Whatever floats your boat though!

haha...beat my dad's TURBO 944 (230hp?) with a '96 Ford Explorer (150hp) with an automatic...lol Who knows what my stripped down Z with an N/A motor (stock-ish?) would do to the 2.5L turbo 944 at its stock 15-17psi...lol I also have an extra 2000 RPMs of power to play with than he does..

I'd warn you about making statements like "just not a quite a Z with that turbo whine" umm...yeah. Bad idea there...lol and turbo is not the simplest way to make power... raising compression and porting are more like it... The CHEAPEST way to make lots of power is to go turbo.

I like N/A L6 motors...but turbo L6's are faster! Current motor is an L26 L24 flattops, MN47 head, header-2.5" pipe, roundtops, and a couple other little things... 10.2:1 CR and it is LOUD!!!!

What a cool thread!!! I have a diploma in "Welding and Joining Technology" I am also a ME student now... When I'm at home I work as a: Pizza delivery driver, pizza cook(throwing dough,making subs, food prep...), assistant in a breakfast resturant, and do most of the mundane little jobs... I'm good at Solidworks and Autocad and looking for a better job this summer designing stuff. Maybe I'll go into business for my self and build cool car stuff... Maybe I'll start building engines and doing hybrid swaps in my garage!

Polishing a L6 head is a royal pain.... like down in near the spark plugs... Just wetsanded up to 600 grit and then used "mother's" aluminium polish... The valve cover actually takes longer (than flat surfaces on the L6 head) because it is a softer alloy of aluminum. I polished sections of mine...not worth it. I ended up getting it powdercoated...

Or you could relocate your springs off of your strut housing...That gives you another inch or so than coilovers will allow. Just do a rocker arm setup to relocate the springs. If you want the easier, dirtier way to gain clearance...

Or let Mike(2003z) at www.thepowdercoater.com ... DIY is always better if you have an old oven to use though...

I get about 16 city and up to 21mpg at 65-70mph highway. I've been thinking a cat-back exhaust will sound really nice... *AGG* can't modify truck! must spend $$$$ on Z!!!*ARR*