seattlejester

Hmm, I'm going based off of someone local who went triples and said their clutch started slipping with a stage 1. I think my exedy stage 1 was rated for like 200tq at the flywheel, I kind of thought the engines made more torque than hp. I'm glad it is working for you though, it is a nice option and cheap to. I think I paid like $100 for my kit on sale. I've heard of throttle being held open on supercharged applications, granted the realm I am in is with electronic throttle bodies, so not sure if you can assign the fault completely there, I think we had someone on our forum who had the issue on a supercharged L series. It was a thing on the supra forums with throttle blades being bent, although this is on large throttle bodies with massive turbos. Bottom line I'm with you, very unlikely.

It seems like two distinct problems. Yes, accelerator stick is something like binding in the throttle linkage or the pedal assembly. Nothing should be holding the throttle down while the car is running short of forced induction without a blow off. Otherwise it could be a floor mat/sound deadening/trim catching on it, but that should be fairly obvious. Pretty sure that clutch is only rated for a bit more than stock. According to what little I remember once you go triples on a good tune you will be past what a stock replacement clutch can hold especially of the smaller diameter. The picture of the throwout bearing suggests you suspect an incorrect throwout bearing holder/fork situation. With a 260z that could be a problem, but without more information that would be harder to tell. Also 8k is really high, I worry what thing you punished doing so, I would want to give the engine a once over and check the filter for any bearing material and the timing chain for any like stretching or skipping.

S12 aka 200sx, at least the turbo model came with an R200. That's where I got my 4.11 from a long time ago. I thought the center was just similar, I didn't realize they actually had long noses in the early 240sx's. Opens up some more possibilities.

Forum posts are pretty time consuming to assemble compared to snapping a picture and posting to facebook or instagram. For the effort, a youtube video would be more permanent and even result in some financial game if you could get it monetized. So that leaves those who do it to share. Who like the format and threading. Seems like fewer and fewer appreciate the standard. I know some forums have a wall type mechanism where someone can only see a post or two before having to sign up. I know some others have gone completely behind a pay wall with an annual fee allowing access. Not sure that fits the technical discussions that we have here. I like to think keeping it open allows anyone to feel like they can contribute. I will say when I was on a Facebook page there were some who at every turn would downplay and warn people against visiting hybridz, like anytime it was mentioned. I've gone back and found some of the posts that seem to have triggered such anger and sometimes it is hard to see how it could spawn years of hatred, but yet every single post it seems like they find and comment how terrible a place it is.

Looks like you got quite a bit of work ahead of you! The X bar to the trans tunnel is pretty standard to keep everything from twisting if you are cutting out the seat rails and such. Something seems a bit off with those welds, too much wire speed? Not enough heat?

Quite the thread jack, but stock 3/4 throw is apparently the same as the one in the 350z if I remember. I'm using a wilwood 15/16 if memory serves.

I enjoyed that immensely! FPV footage was neat as well, hope to get decent enough and try my hand at some chasing sometime.

With the amount of tweaking involved in fitting a CD009 I would suggest having it all fitted how you want it before going too far assuming the chassis is workable. I had to widen my trans tunnel, hammer a few portions, cut out the trans mounts, and weld in new points. Taking off cheap paint/undercoating was annoying enough, can't imagine having to attack 2k primer not to mention cracking it in areas where the tunnel was hammered or the trans tunnel was stretched. As others have said, plan it all out. Doing things twice on paper is far cheaper than doing things twice in real life.

Make sure it is post 04 to get the CD009.

I think the price is on the high side. For a little more you could get wolf creek axles. For a little bit more than that you could actually buy a whole turbo car in my area and that could have an LSD as well.

Hmm twisted wires is always a bad sign but you can't just replace a fuse and expect it to work again. Generally that means something caused the circuit to take in more amps than was deemed necessary. If you weren't the cause of it ala jump starting the car or kicking a power wire to ground or something then you have to trace the fault. In this case three of your circuits were overloaded. You have to find if they have a common fault or if it cascaded as one fuse blew if it caused other circuits to overload. Looks like you have a megasquirt with a relay board. All the wires will be labeled so find where the fuse blew and trace the wire back or forward until you find the fault.

You'll have to scroll down or go back a few pages or it maybe in the build section, pretty sure it was a TKO. Nelsonian maybe? I think the CD00X are still made where the older T56 usually used for swaps stopped in early 2000. I found CD's for like $700 in multiple locations with a warranty. Friend took his to a shop to have it machined for his swap and they asked if it was new with how clean it was, both had over 100,000 miles. T56 were going for no less than double that with no warranty, as is status. Collins makes a couple adapter kits, I think the cheapest variant is like $1000 for an adapter plate, flywheel, adapter parts and clutch. They do a swap now with the automatic bell housing from the JZ and it is even easier to fit, install, etc in that form. Throw in triple syncro, 6 gears, lots of clutch choices, and there is a lot to like. Several people push these into like 800hp territory or higher. Downfall is size and gearing. It is massive, especially the bell housing, and the gearing is pretty short. It would be a better fit with a ford 8.8 with like a 3.1 or a 3.3. With a 3.7 I turn a little under 3k at pretty fast cruise. Keep in mind still gets pretty good milage on a JZ even at that RPM.

That is a point, with my motor placement I think I had 9 inches and the first runner was like 11 inches out. Hence the tubular FFIM on my car.

I'm pretty sure we have someone on the forum doing something pretty similar although I think his is from a late model mustang. Cd009 is also a 6 speed option, we have a few guys with that going on.

Making for merge

It has a frame structure, but not a removable rear sub frame. With the spare wheel well and gas tank removed you have quite a bit of room back there. There are some 3d models of the chassis floating around. Modern sport suspension and steering is a pretty different animal. You can get pretty sporty handling out of these cars, but what they have going for them is light weight. If you add 1000lbs up front in batteries you are going to really be stressed to find suspension to compensate. This has been done a few times. You may have to do some digging, I know a couple locals that have done the ZX's I know someone on here did an S30. Might want to consider a tube chassis with a body on top ala "B is for Build" where he did a tube chassis and welded the body to it.

There was some discussion on here about this although I recall it not coming to a consensus.

That is a lot of work for not much benefit. You can already achieve 50/50 balance. With most engines, V8's in particular you can already put the engine behind the front axle. If you went through with it you would gain some benefit in say braking where you wouldn't be throwing weight past the front axle to some extent and in cornering the weight would be more centered, but you would also have a firewall that encroaches on the already small cabin. Not to mention the extensive work it would take to either move everything back and make room for it which would include widening the trans tunnel, shrinking the already short drive shaft, moving the transmission mounts, the list goes on.

Well done. Make sure to test it, I've been told it has a bias due to how it is installed in the Vue's that will be different from our cars and the pots will have to be adjusted.

Super neat, curious what rear end are you running there? Drifting was interesting, I definitely recommend a school/class/event just to get comfortable with letting the car get loose, but with stock suspension and angle you will be pretty restricted and it will be difficult to catch or get big angle out of them.

My bet would be fuel related. I would say if you take off the return line and I bet it will dribble by the time it shuts off, most likely a clogged filter or gummed up lines. Please be safe when working with fuel!

I've heard stock rocket bunny stuff doesn't fit well either, so who knows. Looking forward to the pictures, stay safe!

Congrats on putting it together! While I appreciate your efforts and bringing another option to the table, per the forum rules though I will have to suggest any pricing and sale information and such be conducted via PM or better yet setup a post in the vendor section! Also must warn you on the group buy type situation. You seem a driven individual, but in the past several have ended badly. Building and selling is slow and inefficient, but it does allow you to manage expectations and prevent things from getting out of hand.

If you don't know what to look for I would suggest finding someone who does. An extra $100 spent here or lunch or beer or whatever is going to save you weeks of work down the line, and an objective voice to tell you to walk away may be worth far more than that. https://zcarguide.com/datsun-240z-rust-inspection-guide-common-rust-areas/ http://zhome.com/Classic/CommonZRust/RustPrevention240Z.htm Are good links. Keep in mind if some of those are gone it is most likely hiding other things. If the body has completely rusted through I would be highly suspect of the frame rails. Same with the battery tray if those are gone frame rails are most likely affected.

The unit is also meant for ATV's or side by sides. The S30 is a light car, but one does have to wonder how a system designed for 1000lbs will handle something that is 2200+ lbs. I will say I appreciate the price being more on the reasonable side.