seattlejester

Be wary of the 7M, everyone I met with who had one spun the rods at some point. Lots of oil restrictions, low oil pressure, and a pickup height that is on the high side can lead to mishap. Or just someone using cheap clamps on a remote oil filter... There is a video on youtube of a guy who goes over the wiring for his swapped truck. You need the ECU and the harness, including fuse and relay box, and you need to splice power to the ECU power, fuel pump, and general electronics (injectors, spark, etc). That is if you want to keep the stock ECU, my wiring harness was absolutely falling apart on mine so I abandoned it pretty quick.

Mustache bar and diff mount from a 280z, pending year possibly axles from a later car. I think the front flange was the same. Drive shaft length shouldn't change hopefully.

What NewZed says is on the spot. Just make sure the pedal is moving for the whole stroke and calculate how much the push rod is moving, not the pedal. Also bench bleed really well to save trouble. At least on the R154 it is also recommended to do a reverse bleed since the nipple sits in an odd spot, unbolt it from the transmission and manually pump the cylinder under the car to push the bubbles up to the top. JMortensen is also on the money with an adjustable clutch stop. I think you would feel the engagement point and you can adjust the pushrod to locate it towards the bottom, but you can add a stop at the bottom to prevent you from overstroking the slave.

This is fun, I have to live vicariously through others for at least a few years. A simple relay is pretty easy to install, one thing to check for is if the ECU sends a power or ground trigger signal when wiring. If you plan on wiring yourself, make sure to get a good set of tools. If not, interview the person who will be doing your wiring. Ask what kind of tools they use and ask for a test piece. I rewired an "expert"s work before, took me twice as long to wire the kit, their crimps didn't hold for anything, and the color coded harness was cut up and the wires mixed up. 5 hour job took 15 hours, over 10 was spent undoing their "pro" install. Yes, for fuel I would say go on the bigger side within reason, I had to redo mine and they are not fun to get to, at least if you want to route them neatly. For non-boost you probably won't need an MLS type gasket, granted I like the fact MLS usually don't disintegrate over time like the cheap generic head gaskets tend to do. The toyota 2jzgte ones are MLS or solid steel from the factory if I recall. I definitely would do the crank pulley, remove it and do the front main seal and the rear main seal, and consider changing pulleys. These motors are old and the rubber will disintegrate over time. If you plan on doing megasquirt, you may want to consider changing to a replacement 1JZ pulley. Those have 4 holes, two of which are unthreaded, but can be tapped easily. That will make mounting a trigger wheel for megasquirt way easy down the road. Alternatively you can just get something like an ATI that has a trigger wheel built in. Not running boost actually saves quite a few headaches as well, you won't have to worry about things like the breathers as much, although drilling those out to something bigger and attaching it to a vacuum source would be nice. That could be difficult with ITB's though.

Fuel pump control, fuel injectors, spark, etc. The Leash one is really nice, and if I'm not mistaken has the smaller form factor high amperage relays and resetable fuses. Resetable fuses are real useful in the teething stages and even down the road if you don't travel with a fuse kit. Edit: oops, yea what ^ guy said

Drill it out and hope for the best? My heart skipped a beat when two of them rounded on me. Went back, cleaned the tops of the bolt to give me as much engagement as possible, tapped the 10 or whatever point tool it is as deep as it would go and then managed to brake those loose, tossed those real quick. While here another piece of advice is to load the washers in the head before you put the head on the studs, the way the washers are it is nigh impossible to do so with the stud in place, I did it the wrong way and had to wind the stud out one at a time to load the washer individually after I placed the head.

I had a fuel cell for a while, mine was mounted under the car after I made a flat floor, but I ended up going with a plastic 2000+ camaro fuel tank with the in tank pump chasing a baffling problem. I had 6AN fuel lines ~3/8 inch and that is supposed to flow enough for more than my power goals really more than enough for most sane people I think. Stock should be ok around stock power levels. I had the driftmotion kit 1.5 kit I think which uses a slightly heavier pressure plate with the R154 and that held power fine. I went with southbend later for my next trans and didn't detect any crank walk. For the engine depending on the management wiring isn't too hard to do, but if you can map out everything and future proof it that may be worth it for you to have a professional wire it. That is your call to make there. I was pretty indecisive and cheap so doing my own wasn't much of an issue especially after I saw the condition of the stock harness. Check the timing belt tensioner and idler pulley while you are in there. Really consider things like the oil pump/fms upgrades or at least proper installation, and maybe even the crank pulley. https://www.supraforums.com/threads/2jz-front-main-seal-findings.1048818/ < a post I put together on the topic. Not sure how adjustable the Apex cross member is, but going clutched fan kind of locks you in a certain location, might consider e-fans to give you some leeway with trans placement etc. 2 fans on a shroud with a standalone controller and I never overheated

Welcome to the forum, please take a moment to look through the announcement section. We currently have a bug that prevents posts from showing up if punctuation is used in the title.

Per request, the post has been moved. That is some very impressive work!

Oh bummer I didn't get a chance to see this. My car is somewhere down there now in sunny california. In case you are still in the planning stage. Front sump will not work. You want the rear sump. Some people unscrupulously sell the mid sump as a rear sump on line. Study the pictures and find the rear sump. The pan setups are expensive new, so best source that soon via junkyard, recycler, ebay. Depending on your goals, if you are going bottom up build, then the SC300 non VVTI block is also a viable option. If you are going to do piston and rods then really any engine variant is open for use. I have a thread in this sub forum outlining some differences, it is word heavy be warned. Don't buy seats until you can physically try them in the car. The datsun setups is pretty thin and holds you at an angle. Other seats have built in angle and will result in you being lifted higher with your knees hitting the steering wheel if you aren't careful. People also run the shit out of these motors because they are "indestructible". I would at least take the pan off and take a look inside, if it is heavily stained heavily consider opening up the motor. Mine had super hard white deposits on the inside on the bottom of the valves very happy I opened it up. I also found it had the cross hatch even after 120k miles so I felt comfortable leaving the bottom end. Take this time to replace the main seals, cam seals, etc. Look up information on the front main seal and the oil pump. Now is the time if you want to install an uprated oil pump and the front main seal protector or retainer. Look into replacing the tensioner and idler pulley. Crank pulley is also known to deteriorate. Look into a replacement. The bolts are also done up a ridiculous amount from the factory prepare to use a massive impact gun or like a 10 foot leverage pole. The head bolts are also notoriously easy to strip. Buy the correct 10 sided bit and take time to clean out the head of the bolt of oil residue or you will round these bolts and you will hate your life. I would warn you away from the R154. It is pretty notchy and can have problems shifting into 1st and reverse and likes to grind. To make them better will require a trip to drift motion for better forks, and upgraded parts, but then you are looking at over $3k into the transmission. Consider spending $2k on a conversion setup to run either a BMW getrag from the 3 series or a Nissan CD009 from a 2005+ 350Z, they are much more affordable and regularly handle fairly large numbers, especially the CD009. Engine hoist Engine leveler Impact gun Transmission Jack Really tall Jack stands Jack Ramps Welder Basic tool set Steel stock plate 3/16 is my favorite for mounts Grinder Hammer Multimeter Extra wiring Tons of other stuff, but if you already started probably not as useful.

Yup was finding sand in every crook for years after blasting a bit of the engine bay.

Clutch master should work, I ran the stock one from the 240z on my R154. Depending on your fueling needs potentially. The lines are on the small side for future power. Core isn't as important as FPI from what I recall. 2 core worked fine for me. You will have to figure out the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, clutch fork reversal setup or standard setup etc. Don't go for super heavy pressure plates like ACT they can lead to crank walk. Trans mount will require quite a bit of work you will have to remove the cross member brace to make room unless you mount everything pretty forward. Depending on the trans you will have to look at shifter extension possibly. The AR5 is supposed to be better, but I really didn't like the R154 in shift feel. Difficulty getting into 1st and reverse. The toyota harnesses seem to corrode pretty easily and the engine wires get real brittle with exposure to oil. Plan on replacing sooner than later. Replace the seals on the motor while it is out. Go OEM it will cost a lot, but should give you piece of mind. There is a whole thing on the front main seal and the oil pump. Take time to research that now while you have access. Plan on replacing things like the idler pulley and tensioner setup.

As long as you know your reason. Granted I can't imagine it being done very well on a budget, and to do it well would require quite a lot of sneaky plumbing which there isn't much room for in the trans tunnel. Most likely the pipes would have to be run in the car or the car would have to be lifted.

Sold

Twin turbo and twin injectors are a bit out dated lately. Has it been a while since you have looked into tuning? Times have kind of moved on with more advanced ECU's that can handle large CC injectors at low idle, something like the 750cc you will most likely require shouldn't need a smaller injector for idle or anything of that nature. Twin rear mount on an inline 6 just seems gratuitous. A modern single turbo will have adequate spool characteristics or you can cheat with a QSV, but running two same sized turbos ala FD RX7, TT Supra, or the TT subaru that spool one then both at different times is quite a chore when modern compressor housings, twin scroll, QSV and such will bring most to a more than usable power bound. Most rear turbo setups are due to proximity of a rear mount engine, space, laziness, or style. Engine is in the front, you have ample space, the fabrication to mount the intercooler back there and the ducting to bring it back forward would indicate no lack of effort, so short of style it seems kind of silly. Echoed above, find the ecu the shop or shops around you will tune on unless you have a tuner or plan on doing it yourself.

Also angle of force is important as well. If you see them blasting straight on at high pressure then that would be concerning. Co2 blasting was a thing mentioned when I looked into this a long time ago, no material to get stuck in cavities. Depending on your means and the state of the car having it dipped is an option in some places.

Thanks for the update, glad it was minor!

There is some wear, but it looks like they still have their coating.

Keep us updated. Like I had never heard rod knock in person, but when it happened, there was no question what it was. It physically hurt to listen to, but that may be my mechanical empathy. Check the gasket, it will show carbon if it is still intact where it was possibly leaking. Look for cracks. Also look for warping on the manifold. Last bit which is a bit rare is to measure the height on the flanges for the intake and the exhaust. If someone shaved the runner down at some point it might just be loose, you would need a stepped washer or to plane down the intake flange.

Without any compression it might be more muted? When my motor rod knocked it was like someone rattling a can of bolts even at idle. No way I would have been comfortable putting my hands near the motor granted mine was catastrophic piston cracking, rod warping.

31 years is a long time for the motor to sit. Hopefully you at least swapped the oil out before cranking it over several times before actually starting the motor. Oil can take a long time to circulate especially if the passages are clogged. It doesn't sound like knock to me. Although microphones are really variable. I would suggest running a compression test. I wouldn't be surprised if the valve seals or something has dried up and making a super loud ticking noise and having the compression gas leak past the valve seal or something. The copper in the oil depending on the amount could be telling. It would be hard to tell until you take the motor apart. But if it was rod knock you definitely need to take the whole block apart and have it cleaned, those metal fragments could get stuck in passages and cause problems depending on how much the bearing deteriorated. Not doing the piston rings while you are in there would be silly. Having the head machined and a valve job with new valve seals and seats potentially replaced with non bronze seats would be a good idea as well. Depending on the rod knock you might find damage on the rod itself from overheating or the piston from wobbling in the bore. There is a method to doing all this as you can find out information each step of the way. I'd start with a compression test though. It could also be something silly like a blown out exhaust gasket or a cracked header. It is odd that the car is misfiring when you rev, makes it seem like there is more than one thing wrong like timing or firing order as well.

Dang, power leveling that car!

Probably about 50 "interested parties," a lot of fall throughs or no shows. Lots of odd trade offers.

This is a bit of a necro, but it is an interesting point. I always thought the ring gear was one of the stronger pieces in the rear drive line. With a 60 ft less than 1.6 I imagine some kind of slicks or drag radial? The 280z stubs are noticeably stronger/thicker/more splined than the 240z ones, but I didn't think they would shift the weak point. Perhaps since most cars in the junkyard I have seen have fairly high milage and I doubt any service of the rear end, perhaps they were all primed for failure, but the fact not 1 was found that was decent seems highly unlikely to support that thought.

Well done sir