seattlejester

Yes, duckbill would sell like hotcakes. Seems a bit too tall as well, and I'm not sure I love what they did with the rear end. I'd love to see the Nismo spec sport some ZG flares as an homage. I think it is a step in the right direction. If the 400Z got even wider and bigger than the 370Z, I think that would have really jumped the shark. I'm hoping for something ala mustang. Cheesy throwback for popularity and slowly work on it and more importantly flatten/proportion work until they get something like what the new mustangs are. Definitely bigger parked next to a classic, but still look proportionately right. 3 generations to hopefully get it right. I hope this inspires them and gets enough interest to make bringing back that 510 throwback a reality.

Not as relevant to I think many on this forum, but Nissan released new images and details about the upcoming replacement. Looks like they are trying to head more towards the 240z and thinning down as well as offering a manual and a factory turbo option. https://www.caranddriver.com/nissan/400z Edit: I goofed... if someone can move this to the non-tech section that would be appreciated.

I'd go slightly bigger just so you can comfortably reach everything and get tools etc in there, although a spare storage cover would look like it definitely belonged.

Can't wait to see it come together again. Keep them updates coming!

I see. Perhaps they just have a larger buffer room and those two cylinders fell just shy of it so they chose to run sleeves rather than being forced to. Please keep us updated on your journey!

Ah, I see. I would be awfully tempted to go ahead and make an access hatch to service. Even though my tank was essentially a quick release with 2 bolts, trying to time it so that you are low on fuel and all that is quite a hassle.

Ah, my response was as to the severity of the angle that Derek reported. I do realize the angle requirement, although I will admit when I first looked at it before my first bespoke driveshaft I did have similar aspiration of "fixing" the angle.

Just thoughts. I noticed it as well when I was down there. I would be curious as to the reason as well. I thought symmetry was the reason. The rear setup is fairly symmetrical except for the differential offset. The front is also line up down the center other than the tilt of the engine. Driveshaft then is twisted at an angle to accommodate the mismatch. I think you would have to delve into the evolution the rear Nissan IRS design and where the inspiration came from to determine if it was intentional, happenstance, or poorly copied. I recall asking my driveshaft shop and they said as long as both ends were flat and there was angle it would be fine, best would be if the angles were the same, but not always done or possible.

Loving how it came together, looks great!

I love that people are still doing this. Curious, when sleeving something that is already that thin, do you have to add material somewhere? I was under the impression with boring to that extent, cylinders unable to withstand would indicate a core shift and would need a new block as there wasn't much material holding the sleeves in once bored.

It takes quite a setup to TIG doors or body panels. Harder to localize heat. I think the only time I've seen it done was with basically a circle of damp cloth surrounding the area, and it still needed beating and lead afterwards. Digging the color scheme.

Ah, your back! When you say you didn't cut for clearance, does that mean your pickup is sitting above the fuel level? I would be very much inclined to fix any fuel related issues now. It will only be more difficult down the road. If a door would help I would go ahead and make the cut now rather than later. A panel is not hard to make and with some riv-nuts would only need a thin layer of foam tape to seal it pretty well. If you plan on adding insulation that would be good to do now as well after you decide if you want an access hatch or not. It both helps keep heat out and in depending the weather, and makes for a quiet ride. Car does look good, we'll have to take some photos sometime!

I'm not sure who owns the artwork, but that would be cool to do. Just a warning having witnessed quite a bit, group buys and such can get out of hand real fast especially with money and such involved. I know there are on demand printing outlets nowadays. A bit more pricey and more overhead, but benefit of being able to get the items out quickly and one at a time.

Unfortunately cockerstar has not been on since last year. I would love to get a new hoodie as well. I wonder if he used someone local.

Funny enough, I had the same logic when asking John "I'm going to autocross will so will an R180 sti diff be ok." His response: "I never ran a STi diff in my car. I had a number of Datsun R180s over the years that had welded spider gears, Quaife, Nissan Motorsports, and OSG Super Locks. All got very hot and none ever failed. That's with 120 to 275 ft. lbs. going through them. I had to replace the diff fluid frequently (Redline 80W/140), as often as every race weekend at the higher torque levels (even with a cooler). I would not run a R180 on any race track behind an engine making over 300 ft. lbs. Autocross is even harder on a LSD because of the tight turns and acceleration from low speeds. Street is different because you are rarely at full power for more then a few seconds at a time." Gosh. Miss him. An alignment as Newzed mentions would be pretty informational especially if you installed T3 adjustable items. With stock arms it would tell if the chassis is twisted, but at least with the adjustable they should be able to get everything in spec. There are some binding issues that show up with trying to adjust toe using an H-arm design, so if it is really far out I would be skeptical of forcing it all the way into spec.

I had mine with a 1 finger gap between the tire and the fender and had to be picky with my passengers. Arms were parallel to the road, but tires would catch on dips etc. Not really cool when you get stuck on a lip or a speed bump and have to ask your passenger to get out and help you push the car. Not worth it. Raised up an inch in the back and a bit in the front and that let me take most things at speed straight on.

I think this would be best in its own thread. Have you checked the axles? I had a VLSD and suspected the delay to be a combo of the coupling taking a moment to lock and the axle having play in the tripod. Could also be a case of the Subaru diff being old and needing the discs serviced or re-stacked. John had also mentioned overheating the R180 with track work and needing frequent fluid changes and or a dedicated diff cooler. The os-giken is just the center and would bolt to the gear already present in the differential. I'm seeing two different part numbers for the 240z and the STI, so there may be some differences. I imagine that difference would be on the input axles. If you like the Subaru diff and are set on the OS giken, I would just purchase the unit for the STI rather than for the Datsun. Granted I think if you are putting out a bit of power with the Rebello, the extra size and capacity of an R200 would not go amiss.

Turn down tip if you haven't done it. Even like a 45* toda style tip will improve that quite a bit.

Dang saw right through it. Just makes my future dream build much easier, one stop shop! Just need a rear end setup *cough cough* I really like how you did it, I think the fault with mine was my unwillingness to push the engine forward from where I had it (touching the firewall) and thus pushing the transmission so far back requiring a shorter shifter etc. Driveshaft needs to be bespoke since the input is very different and the 350z driveshaft is actually a carbon tube and thus not able to be shortened.

...I think I love you...

The late model is the slightly confusing bit, I believe I used my 71 240z drive shaft, shortened on my 1979 ZX 5 speed, but I also flipped my differential mustache bar pushing my diff forward so I'm not sure how much shortening if any is required. The yoke just has to be engaged enough and past the seal. The dust shield usually comes past the exposed portion of the yoke to shield it from any debris so it doesn't tear up the seal if it moves in too far. In this orientation I'm not sure there is much concern for the yoke moving too much since the rear is mounted and the engine cants over left and right. I suppose there is some movement from accelerating and braking with worn stock mounts to account for. You are ahead of the curve, sometimes people forget, but there is always something new you can learn somewhere!

The white smoke without water is an interesting thing, but only with the assumption there was sufficient time to burn off any water that may have leaked in. I've seen really lean cylinders put out white smoke, usually before something lets go. I think it best as others have said to run a compression test. Hydrocarbon test in the coolant or checking for water in the oil would also be two other alternatives or additional tests. Running rough as in loping idle, running and catching, sputtering, front firing? Any additional info will be helpful.

As others said depends on your use. You could have 1000ft lbs, but if you have it set with boost by gear and traction control along with a clutch damper you could run that pretty long term. If on the other hand you are on the stock setup with a pucked clutch and drop the clutch on drag slicks something will give real soon. I was in the high 300, low 400 territory with CV axles on 280z stub axles. It handled some low speed clutch kicking on thinner tires, but I'd be hesitant to try anything that aggressive with slicks or much stickier without revisiting at least the stub axles. You're loading the discussion as well with talks of budget. R180 Subaru LSD with stub adapters and wolf creek axles can be anywhere from $500 to $2000 depending on how good you are at deal hunting that still leaves you with the stub axles and an R180, not to mention the axles and joints are not immune from failure. T3 setup also starts at $3400? but depending on the condition of the parts and options that can balloon out much more. If you plan on putting 450ft lbs to the ground repeatedly and with vigor the stock stub axles will not like it very much. The lighter options from the T3 will also struggle depending on how much weight/grip/activity it sees. Drifters break the R200 setup from the 240sx all the time at much lower levels. That moves you to either sourcing the R230 setup with TTT or going to the ford 9 inch setup. I wouldn't hesitate to run the stock setup for quite a while. The rear end is pretty easy to remove and the stock setup will put up with a good amount of use as long as you use the clutch on take off and keep shock loads down.

It was, yes. Vibrant ultra quiet resonator will take care of certain frequencies, but really you just need to damp the amplitude with a muffler for pleasant in town cruising. If you want noise at WOT you can always go with an open waste gate dump.

I mean if noise is your thing a dynomax bullet will get you there. Short of a valved muffler or electric cut out it is hard to get both. I had a vibrant ultra quiet resonator and an amazon baffled muffler and it was fairly benign, enough sound to drive without the tach, but not quite requiring earplugs.