seattlejester

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We talk about the setups in there. My thoughts on it, take from it what you will.

They might be kind of close to the inner perch, but with a spacer they would work.

I'll say I still have much to learn, but adding the pedal has made it much less binary and added a depth to it that is interesting. Still terrible with aluminum. Those projects look real great!

Looking forward to it!

Hello, It seems like you have posted in the FAQ section, that does not allow responses. Please take a moment to look at which section before posting for better assistance. I'm not sure real watanabe's go that big. Also those numbers would put you pretty much in your strut if I'm not mistaken.

Aftermarket standalone

Goodness gracious, please time that and tell us how long that takes!

Either a mercedes V12 or the motorcycle V8 would also be some interesting engines. I hadn't thought of other cars, my interests very so much though. I'm curious about the higher hp mitsubishi evo's, and swapped FD's has always been appealing, I'd love to try one of the R35 GTR's or a modernish tuned porsche at some point. A GTR with a 2JZ I think would be somewhat entertaining, as would be a supra with an RB26, just to watch the world burn.

I have the print files somewhere to make the gauge pod adapter to mount the tablet right behind the wheel. You could also just run a bent sheet of metal folded at about a 90* and make brackets to the mounting points, unless you need the core to mount the radio, fans, etc.

Hood, hatch, fenders, are not a big deal overall. The rear skirt you can find a patch panel. The rear quarters and dog legs can be a tricky repair. You have a solid 2-3k in parts alone. Unless you can find a shell in better condition for less than 2k I think you are in a good spot. Just find a good metal guy. With that said, that really is quite a bit of rust. Going to be pricey unless you can do it yourself or with friends.

Comp dropped via cometic 2 or 2.4mm head gasket, I'll have to look up the order form. It is a non-VVTI engine so non interference, I think around 8.5ish to 1 compression ratio. Really boost friendly, but not so low to be as sluggish like a stock L28ET off boost.

Thanks for that endorsement, and I've found and fixed quite a few things since then. Far more pleasant seating (chair moved back), driving position (pedals adjusted), much less noise from the exhaust and interior rattling. Tune is being worked on still, chickenman has been a big help and I plan on getting the tune more sorted before it goes anywhere. I may take you up on that, I'll let you know next time I get back over the mountains, we'll have to take her out for a spin before she goes Power wise, should be good for at least 500hp, the turbo apparently is rated for 650hp or so, but haven't seen too many people reach that point with it. Currently running 15lbs of boost. Feels like a pretty solid mid to high 300hp level to me.

I'm with you I think an extra grand or two would probably clean it up real nice and make it much more presentable, I just have limited time and access. I go back maybe once a month if I'm lucky, and spending my time off working on the car is a bit depressing. Plus, no income anymore so I'd have to do it on credit which is not in my nature.

Pains me to say, but looks like time may have come for me as it has for others. I started school a couple months ago and keeping this car is an expense I can't justify. I've spent the last month or two cleaning up the car and fixing small points here and there. My car is pretty well documented on here, feel free to ask any questions. I'll update the post as I remember things. Up for sale is my 1971 Datsun 240Z. Engine: SC300 2jz-ge non VVTI Head machined by action machine ($700 or so, machined to hold high boost, 3 angle valve job, new cam buckets from toyota, decking, cleaning, etc) Cometic MLS headgasket ARP head studs OEM toyota seals for cams, front and rear main seals Treadstone stainless steel cast manifold Borg Warner S257SX-E with AGP 0.7 T4 non twin scroll hot side Precision 39mm waste gate Turbo XS blow off valve 4 AN oil feed and 10 AN return Front Facing Intake Manifold Toyota 1ZZFE Smart Coil on plugs NGK BKR7E (I think) Distributor delete Valve covers tapped for big pressure relief 3 inch down pipe and full exhaust, muffler and vibrant ultra quiet resonator Suspension: BC Extreme low coilovers Tubular RLCA Techno Toy Racing GTX-2 ST rear sway bar with spacers for correct alignment MSA front sway bar Energy suspension poly bushings where applicable Drivetrain: CD009 Short shifter Shifter relocator 1lb shift knob SS braided clutch line Wilwood Clutch master Southbend SS clutch kit with exedy quiet disc Drivelines NW overbuilt drive shaft (massive joints) R200 VLSD CV axles 280Z 27 spline stub axles Brakes: Toyota 4 piston 4x4 brakes Las Vegas rear disc conversion kit with 300zx rotors and 240sx calipers CuNiFer replacement lines Braided SS brake lines 15/16 280ZX brake master cylinder A1 brake booster Hydraulic hand brake Precision ball valve for rear brake lock Wilwood rear proportioning valve Interior: Sparco R100 seats Schroth 4 point ASM harnesses with pads Green LED gauges throughout Tablet with shadow dash for main readout Fuel: AEM rising rate fuel pressure regulator AN fuel lines front to back Camaro LS1 fuel tank Racetronix fuel pump Exterior: Klearz turn signals with LED lights Clear side marker Gatling gun LED projectors Headlight covers Xenon front air dam Front bash bar style front bumper Shaved rear end Hella stock replacement horns (not supertones) Aerocatch latches Quick latch pins Wheels: Enkei 92 15x7+0 Kumho Ecsta 225/50/15 Lots included, tons of stock parts, lots of spare JZ parts, interior carpet, panels, and lots of parts that haven't made it on the car like a dash cap, electric power steering, new steering parts. It is a 10 footer for sure, to make it shine it can use some body work, but mechanically it is really sound. Rust has been cut out and replaced so solid chassis. I've driven it quite a bit this last summer including a 300+ mile round trip a little while ago so perfectly drivable. I'll update the posting as time goes. Looking for $14,000 Trades: maybe something interesting, really only looking for maybe a BMW 335i/xi N54, or a Jeep LJ, both with a bit of cash.

That's how I did mine, they returned it without the reservoirs loose in a box unannounced. I had new ones waiting so it wasn't a big deal, but maybe best to take the loose bits off, they have a tendency it seems to not return those.

Carbs hold a bit of fuel in them, but as long as you don't get a front fire or something it shouldn't be a factor. That is going to be quite the project to adapt a carb set, fit a pressure box over the whole thing, then mechanically tune for it. There is some simplicity in mechanical tuning, but without going real deep into the nitty gritty of carb tuning you won't get some of the niceties of fuel injection. @280zex did a turbo carb setup with a 4 barrel and a conversion manifold on an L28ET maybe he can chime in.

Congratulations for using the FAQ section as intended, thanks for the post!

I've heard mixed about bracing, like since the pipes are expanding bracing can cause fractures from the tension caused by fixing the turbo flange in place in respects to the expanding pipes. Not that continually expanding and shrinking pipes with a weight on it would fare much better. Part of why I went with the heavy SS cast manifold.

I'm sure there is something similar here, there are plenty of kit cars as you mention so I'm sure there is a process of sorts. I think it varies from state to state which may be a bummer. I have heard some stories of it taking years, and others of breezing right through. I think some like factory five generate a vin that they use for the chassis they build that can be used for registrations. Don't forget the weight change as well :). I realize you are talking out loud and not looking for answers per say, but interesting to think about. Part of the looks of older cars is running fairly deeply dished wheels. If the hubs were further out that would prevent deep dish wheels without going even further. Granted I'm sure there are benefits to having the hub more centered in the wheel especially in the front instead of running massive negative offsets. Kind of a question for aesthetics vs function. Granted non dished wheels look a bit off on classic Z's to me personally as do larger diameter wheels. I think the subaru would be a bit of a different animal with the boxer engine. They really did achieve something special there with the low CG and mounting, it would be fairly difficult to mount in our surprisingly narrow body style. That does make an interesting point, a modular bay of sorts to accept different cradles or engine mounts was always some fuel for late night bench racing.

Maybe it is the thick wire/high heat leading to a fast build up as you mention. They just look tall, but as long as the penetration is there though really doesn't matter, and under paint and carpet, it would take a real nosy person to find them. Keep up the work!

Welcome Very interesting. Mark's build is probably along the same lines or the project ardvark build. The reason I think people restore the rusty frames are to have the all important VIN number which allows registration and insurance. Kit cars without a VIN of sorts can be difficult to get certified for insurance or road use. If it is a track only toy then the requirements are much less, granted I think some places still want VINs for insurance purposes even for race cars. Would be interesting, 350z's are pretty affordable, and if you could find a way to use the sub frames and such and the stock suspension pickup points the list of benefits would be pretty neat. The problem then would be you are basically building a lighter 350z with a body kit. Mark has a very modified power plant and suspension setup, and the project aardvark has similarly extensive modification, but for drift usage. I'm not sure how the car would be running 350z geometry in a shorter wheel base with a different balance and different weight. Will be interested in what you come up with!

If you don't know what is involved, most likely it won't be for you. I've seen a couple 2jz subaru on the internet, so it is "possible," but it really will be far from bolt on, or a list of parts. I doubt you would use the subaru drive train which means either loosing awd, or using an AWD RB26 setup and shortening/lengthening axles, moving or modifying firewalls, moving or modifying subframes, trans tunnel so on and so on.

Hello, Welcome to the forums. Please take a moment to look in the announcement section. Your post was found posted to the FAQ section and the title contains quotation marks. FAQ section posting does not allow for responses. Quotations, exclamation, foreign characters and such can cause your post to be inaccessible to some users. Both are forum quirks, just take a second to make sure where you are posting and what is in the title and you will be all set! I must commend you on your well outlined post. It is real clear what you are looking for. While I am tempted to guess, I will refrain from doing so as it has been a while since I have looked at a stock system. Fuel systems are generally more or less equalized. There is negative draw from the fuel pump and some positive return from the return line, but the vent lines should help equalize pressure, or else you would implode the tank as you drew down fuel according to some people who installed fuel cells incorrectly.

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