seattlejester

I have one hard wired into the car. I did not think ahead and did it early on before higher amperage stuff was a thing. It will not charge my iPhone and will not charge a tablet when it is on. Other then that getting a 2.1A 12V charger is fairly easy. You can buy a cigarette lighter type deal and just dissect it if you wanted to save a bit or not deal with shipping. Make sure you fuse it. Unlikely anything will happen, but you never know with the cheaper charger setups.

A little late to the party, but you make some simple brackets and use the 2x13 one included. Mine is floating a little behind the radiator on 2 U-brackets

^True, but the accel enrichment is going to suffer a bit. You have to run MAP DOT instead of TPS DOT if you don't have a TPS and only have the TP Switch of the zx. MAP DOT is slower to respond so accel enrichment will take a pretty big hit in drivability, although it isn't impossible to tune for by any means. You can also tune TPS DOT sitting still technically without the engine running really. MAP DOT will have to be adjusted in real world situations and can vary depending on things like load which will be affected by things like grade and how much you slip the clutch.

Oh that would be killer. Granted I think it is hard to finish that project with less than 30k.

^That is true, I've always wondered about those cars, I imagine the case is they are either taken off the road at that point or more of a don't ask don't tell kind of thing.

^I think I had to go a good 2-3 sizes shorter on mine, you could completely twist the belt 180* (90* is tight). Also make sure it does freely spin. If someone used a different tensioner or certain ones (like between automatic and manual) have three strengthening grooves that will bind with the new pulley and need to be shaved. I would say to keep certain things consistent. Like if you plan on going cheap, stay cheap. As in if you are trying to pinch pennies by not opening up the motor, then don't get a nice big brand name turbo. On my engine I found a lot of rust type scale on the exhaust valves which would come off with scrubbing. That kind of stuff goes into a turbo and you can kiss the turbine wheel goodbye. CX racing mounts are really not very good, three of us used the mounts on the forum, I heavily modified mine, another member welded his in the correct spot by removing his stock mounts, and another is just kind of running as is. Construction is fine, but they place the motor too far to the passenger side and tilted. I would definitely not recommend them. I feel the 240sx ones or the LS swap mount ones would almost be better as a starting point. Also if possible I would almost say not to get the JDM one if you have an option. The USDM 2jzgte has 550cc injectors and steel compressor wheels on the turbo. I think the later JDM models also come with electronic throttle bodies which would mean a conversion to a fly by wire accelerator pedal. VVTI I am on the fence. The interference fit is worrying, and a lot of the VVTI stuff in general is less spec'd then non VVTI stuff: water pump uses smaller bolts, alternator outputs less, interference fit, etc etc. Granted if you are comfortable with fabricating, souring, etc these are all very minor considerations.

Z31 does natively fit a V6 with a turbo. I imagine a Z32 would be even better with the allocation of the twins. I mean I had this thought way back in the day, but found the Subaru engine was about 3 inches into the shock tower an an S30. Given you would probably want at least an inch on each side, probably two if you wanted to take the covers off without having a very generous fender access port (still would have to remove the shocks), you would be looking for the width of a subaru engine + 4 inches relative of course to where the front axles leave the transmission, which I think is where you will find that the Z31 may be too short with the the axles lined up to the front wheels. I would say to take a couple measurements and head off to the junkyard. I have yet to go to one that didn't have a Z31.

Fair enough, there is a fine line between overloading and under loading lol. I am definitely on the fence with the CD009. I'd like to swap to it, but 3k to swap seems like a lot granted that includes a twin disk in the price.

^Don't forget a trans as well lol. I think mine was along the lines of: 2jz-ge - $500 Rear sump oil pan - $3-700 (I traded for mine front sump for rear sump) Treadstone manifold - $450 (makafox gave me a really good deal though so I didn't nearly pay as much) 2mm Cometic head gasket ARP head studs ARP flywheel bolts 1jz flywheel 1jz bell housing R154 stage 2.5 clutch PS/AC delete kit 2jz rear sump dip stick and tube Genuine toyota cam seal, front and rear main seal, valve cover gasket Thermostat Water pump - $1800? It was one really big order Head rebuild - $800 (ferrera valve seals, high boost capable valve angle job and seat grinding, shims to match) Borg warner S257 SX-E with .7AR hot side in T4 - $800 (might have been more can't remember) Precision 39mm waste gate - $180 Front facing intake manifold - $250-300 (modified eBay manifold) R154 - $800-1000 (already had) R154 to datsun drive shaft - $300 (already had) Megasquirt - $450 (already had) 440cc injectors - $100 (already had) BOV - $50-100 (already had) Fuel cell, fuel pump, AN fittings, RR FPR and lines - $500 (already had) If you don don't factor in the stuff I already had I think I'm probably close to the 5k mark as well. If I stepped down to a W58 I could have probably saved over a grand. If I stepped up to a CD009 I would have probably been down another 2-3k.

Aluminum tape is pretty good at holding a seal. If you really want it to last sticking it top and bottom on clean surfaces will work pretty well for patching up even fairly large holes without breaking out the welder.

1. Use a washer? Make sure you add it to the correct side, you don't want to crush the injectors. 2. Possible, quick trip to the harware store would reveal your answer. If they are using a supplier they could have sent them the wrong bolts as well. I've had that happen and almost lost my mind trying to figure that out. 3. Yes top feed injectors are held in by the clamping force of the rail pretty much. If you loosen the rail you can slide them up and down usually. They aren't actively retained.

The block is too wide to sit between the shock tower. The subaru engine usually sits in front in a subaru doing the same in the datsun you end up with the transmission stick sticking up in the engine bay pretty much due to the long engine bay. At that point cutting out the shock towers and grafting in the subaru shock towers and stuff would be the route to go, that requires a lot of alignment, welding, reinforcement. Indeed one of those things where if you have to ask...probably not quite there yet. Granted depending on your purpose/goal/motivation/finances it wouldn't be all that difficult. Stretch or shrink the wheel base as needed, cut the body off the car, cut the datsun unibody off the floor and mate. If it needs to sit wide, flare the wheels, cut the body down the middle and stretch it. Not all that hard if your goal is just a fun, not road legal, frankenstein's monster type deal, there was a guy that did that with an SC400 and a volvo amazon and it turned out really nice. Unless you have a real artists eye, get really lucky with a lot of placement, and such probably not going to be quite aesthetically pleasing though.

My thoughts on the ge vs gte "Honestly I think if you have modest goals the GTE is a better option, don't have to spend money on turbo's/manifolds/injectors etc etc. You have to lean on the little twins pretty hard once you start getting above 400hp from what it seems like so if you are above modest, or think you will be in the area above modest, a single setup starts looking like a good idea at that point since you have to buy a manifold/turbo/injectors anyway a GE could be a savings, although if you don't have the ignition setup and such I think the cost still favors a GTE. I don't think the GE is better then the GTE like Bean seems to imply, it just has financial merits at certain points for dexter72 and given our turbo motors that we had prior I think it was a good route. For someone coming in fresh I am not so sure it would be. It is an interesting thing to dissect, hard to get rid of the motivation behind each party though. For the budget people a bandaided 2jz-ge with ebay parts could be done for less then the cost of a 2jzgte. For the power people throwing lots of money it almost makes no difference where you start. For people in the middle it really can shift either way based on a few small choices and I think for some people that is hard to say as that would mean their choice can be "wrong." It is interesting to look at." Dexter and I both went the 2jzge NA-T route. He absolutely kicked my ass in the budget aspect of it, granted I made some very specific choices that prevented me from going down the same route. Above all the NA-T route isn't nearly as plug and play. Unless you plan on running a distributor you are going to need aftermarket spark control, the GE has very limited manifold options unless you are willing to use ebay parts or shell out for the really expensive stuff. With a GTE you can literally bolt in and plug and play. TechT swap kit, Wiring Specialties wiring harness, CX swap radiator and such. So depends on your power goals and fabrication/install capabilities. Under 400hp, buying swap kit and wiring kit then GTE. If you are a more DIY person, know how to wire, have access to a welder and those kind of tools, then GE can be done for less. If you are going over 400hp, really doesn't matter, probably going to take the block apart, some people have gone up to like 600hp on a stock ge block, but a lot of the higher hp guys will go GTE internals in their GE block if not just go with forged components. I will say if you are opening the block then have someone who knows these motors work on them, crank walk can happen if you don't install the crank right, cleaning out crank really well is important and requires more then just a solvent bath.

Went to formula D on fairly short notice. Very cool. Saw the ACT guys there and chatted with one of the reps. Not sure if he was just caught on the spot, but I asked if they had any twin disks for the 2jz/R154 in the works and he said they were working on it and hoped to have something in 2018. Would be very cool to have another option especially a midrange option like ACT is known for about the 5-700hp mark. One of the european S15s I believe this was James Deane's. Also nice to check to see what setups people were running. Like this guy seemed to be the only guy running a pre turbo inlet to the catch can, unless the other cars were running an exhaust driven vacuum setup. Lots of EFR turbos and such as well. Very cool to see cars that I had read about in person. There was some fantastic driving. Also cool to see the drivers interacting. Castro went almost immediately from his car to Forsberg to talk about their competition with 2 OMT's. Tuerck actually was sitting in the stands waiting for his turn. Zetsaz even got a tire fill kit handed directly to him by Tuerck in a giveaway. The ferrari powered FT86 was there as well. If I wasn't mistaken the trigger wheel looked very similar to a DIY wheel lol. Also saw that in the parking lot. Going to call him out if he's local. That all thread post is about 3mm or less from that power stud. I really wanted to jam a dollar bill or something in there because given that the all thread is also touching the body if that battery shifts or the all thread bends he is going to weld that battery straight to the car. Yea not really sure what is going on anymore. If I am reading the circuit correctly.... fused white/red wire from alternator goes to fuse box a separate white/red wire comes off of the fuse box goes to ignition/steering column and the ammeter from ammeter the wire turns white white wire is fused and goes to the starter junction where the battery is fed. So I should find the white/red wire on the fuse box should have a break with the alternator. I think it was showing continuity. Going to have to recheck or at least make sure I isolate it so it isn't being continuous through another route. Right now I am essentially bypassing all the first part and directly topping off the battery with my new wire. The battery in turn is supplying the fuse box. Overall not a big problem as the headlights are on their own circuit and I am not running most things in the car, but this does seem to be the wrong way to do this. I'll have to revisit that when my head is clear. Decided to address a bit of the heat issue. The turbo itself was getting quite warm. (Excuse the poor wire job, I couldn't quite commit to cutting it short quite yet) Given the wires sit on the frame rail I thought I should address the heat. I ordered a turbo blanket for a T3 turbo from Thermal Zero. The T4 blanket fits like huge S400 turbos so very much overkill for my S200. I spent about 3 times the going rate for a generic blanket as I wanted to avoid fiberglass and cheap stitching. Turns out this guy is fiberglass as well. I suppose not too much out there that can affordably insulate high heat. Can't say much for the stitching, but we will see how long it lasts. I have heard at least the warranty is excellent which is far better then what I hear about the generic ones. Also found the oil feed was working its way loose. 1/4 turn after hand tight definitely felt light and was. Put a piece of the reflective tape wrap so I can keep an eye on it to catch it rotating again. http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu119/jesterjin/C9968BB0-D81D-489D-92BB-DFB205EE9CF8_zpsiknqluuo.jpg Also found the elbow off the turbo was quite hot. I was honestly surprised the silicone hadn't started to come apart. It has a bit of an air gap from the manifold, but still enough radiation is getting it quite warm. Since it defeats the purpose of sizing my turbo to make sure it does not heat the air by maintaining peak efficiency by immediately cooking the air after it gets compress I figured something had to be done. Clocking the turbo isn't really an option, and it will be a while hopefully before I have to remove the turbo assembly at which point I will have an aluminum 90 welded on, I decided to get a bit of reflective wrap to deflect some of the excess heat. So quite a few things addressed. Plan is to go for a fairly long drive, break in the clutch, then change the oil. If I don't have any issues I can start playing around with getting more then 80% throttle and boost levels.

I mean you are welcome to try lol, your car and if you are chasing function then that is more important after all. I'm honestly thinking of moving my mirrors back to the doors. Only reason I'm hesitant is I spent so much time shaving them. Fender mirrors do get in the way when you are digging around in the engine bay. Have to say car sounds very good sir.

Some people have. Non bullet style mirrors look really off. I saw two cars with square ones this weekend and it definitely didn't match. The thin motorcycle one make them look like bug eyes on antennae I would vote not to.

From the reading the EFR is basically an S-series on crack. Stainless steel divorced and profiled turbine housing, titanium turbine wheels, ceramic ball bearing, integrated waste gate and pop off valve. Basically the only reason to run an S over an EFR is price, although if you wanted a larger waste gate or a blow off valve in a different location you could argue the EFR might be a tad wasteful in that regard The S252SX-E would be the closest comparison I think being an almost 70mm compressor exducer and a 61mm turbine exducer. Comparing the two compressor maps you can see that even with a similarly sized wheel it is drastically different. You can see from the shape the EFR turbo is much more linear in that more boost nets you more compressor flow while still being efficient while the S series does eventually cap out and efficiency drops as you attempt to extract more flow from it. At basically any given point the EFR makes about 10 more lb/min within the same efficiency island at the same pressure ratio under about 50lbs/min over that and the difference seems more negligible given that you are maxing out the turbos capabilities. The counter argument would be you could upsize the turbo to match the flow like the S257SX-E which is a 7670 in EFR terminology would flow similarly to the EFR 7163. Flow isn't the end game though, given the titanium wheel and the ball bearing, the EFR will spool much sooner and recover faster from throttle off moments. Depending on your activity that might make or break your choice. So basically if you want the ultimate response and power for a certain package going for an EFR turbo would be a good idea. I was at formula D and it seemed almost all the drivers with 2JZ's had EFR turbos under the hood 5/7, with only one driver having a traditional S series, and another I think having a turbonetics turbo. The S series shouldn't be taken lightly though, the S series is in my humble opinion one of if not the best option for a journal bearing turbo considering factors of flow, price, and size.

Reserved for chart info Please feel free to recommend turbos interested in Name: Nomenclature Compressor Inducer Compressor Exducer Comp Trim Turbine Inducer Turbine Exducer Turbine Trim Garrett: GT2860R 6054 47 60 62 54 47 76 GT2860RS 6054 47 60 62 54 47 76 GT2871R 7154 53 71 56 54 47 76 GT3071R 7160 53 71 56 60 54 84 GT3076R 7670 57 76 56 60 55 84 GT3582R 8268 61 82 56 68 62 84 GTX2860R Gen II 6054 46 60 58 54 47 76 GTX 2867R Gen II 6754 50 67 55 54 47 76 GTX 2967R 6757 50 67 55 57 52 84 GTX 2971R 7157 54 71 58 57 52 84 GTX 2976R 7657 58 76 58 57 54 90 GTX 3076R Gen II 7660 58 76 58 60 55 74 GTX 3576R Gen II 7668 58 76 58 68 62 84 GTX 3582R Gen II 8268 66 82 64 68 62 84 Borg Warner: BW S252SX-E 7070 52 70 56 70 61 76 BW S257SX-E 7670 57 76 56 70 61 76 BW S362SX-E 8376 61 83 54 76 68 80 BW S363SX-E 8776 63 68 52 76 68 80 BW S364SX-E 8780 64 87 54 80 BW S366SX-E 9180 66 91 52 80 73 83 BW S369SX-E 9180 69 91 57 80 BW EFR 6258 6258 49 62 62 58 BW EFR 6758 6758 54 67 65 58 BW EFR 7163 7163 57 71 64 63 BW EFR 7064 7064 52 70 55 64 BW EFR 7670 7670 57 76 56 70 61 76 BW EFR 8374 8374 62 83 56 74 BW EFR 9174 9174 68 91 55 74 BW EFR 9180 9180 68 91 56 80 73 83 T3/T4 57trim 7666 51 76 66 56 HX30 7370 44 73 70 60 HX35 8370 58 83 70 64 P6266 8666 62 84 66 82 76

I've been doing a lot of searching on this topic, frankly I still am. This stuff comes up all the time in comparing things even like what size turbo blanket you should get. I figured it might be useful for those who are looking to do the same. I am by no means very knowledgeable regarding this topic. Please feel free to let me know preferable with links and such so that I can add them. Starting with the very basics of selecting turbo chargers. Couple assumptions/definitions off the bat. Pressure ratio: Is a ratio of pressure (duh). Usually this is in terms of absolute pressure over atmospheric pressure. To find your pressure ratio you would add the atmospheric pressure to your desired pressure and divid over the atmospheric pressure. I want 14.7PSI of boost, what is my pressure ratio? (14.7lbs/in^2(lbs of boost desired)+14.7lbs/in^2(atmospheric pressure)) / (14.7lbs/in^2) = Pressure ratio of 2. Bar is a convenient measure equating the atmospheric pressure of 14.7psi almost to 1bar. The formula above would change to: (1bar (boost desired) + 1 bar (atmospheric pressure))/ 1bar = Pressure ratio of 2 Thus dividing by 1 you don't really need to recall the unit. Simplified the equation for pressure ratio (desired boost in PSI/14.7PSI) + 1. Corrected mass flow (Lbs/min): Corrected mass flow is in the units of pounds per minute. This is as you can guess a measure of mass of air moved per minute. This is how much air the turbo flows, ultimately this is the measurement to determine how much power a turbo can support. A very basic easy assumption is to multiply Lbs/min by 10 to get the theoretical horsepower the air mass will support. Efficiency: This is a percentage efficiency of the turbo or a fraction out of 1 in this case. The value is graphed as islands on the graph (circleish looking things). Basically as the efficiency number drops the turbo is loosing more work in the form of heat. In laymen's terms that means you are heating up the air as the efficiency percentage goes down. Ideally you want your turbo to stay in the peak efficiency island in your planned use area. RPM: Rotations per minute of the turbine. This is the rotation speed of the turbo. Graphed with horizontal lines along the islands. Causing the turbine to spin faster means it moves more air, at the same time it generates more heat Here are some flow charts: Note the Y axis (vertical) is labeled with the pressure ratio Note the X axis (horizontal) is labeled with Lbs/min Note the "islands" marked with a percentage number indicating efficiency. So there is a lot of information you can extract from a compressor map. For example: You can say that at a PR of 2.5 or the equivalent ~22lbs of boost this turbo will generate 42lbs/min while at peak efficiency of 75%. Alternatively you can see that this turbo will support 600hp using the assumption of about 10hp/CMF at a pressure ratio of 4, or 45PSI. Or you can see that at 15lbs (roughly a PR of 2) this turbo will support ~420hp at its worst efficiency or 310hp at its best. Now you can tell how to read a compressor map. Looking at compressor maps and plotting points is the best way to shop for a turbo. Plotting points is a matter of determining how much power you want to make then working backwards and figuring out how much boost it would take to generate that power and seeing if the intersection of those two points are in a good efficiency island. Additionally you can determine how future proof the turbo is by putting in your theoretical max and seeing if the turbo will support the power. Ideally your planned power points would coincide with more boost so that you travel within an efficiency island up to your theoretical max. Unfortunately reality will set in as high boost levels will require larger ring gaps, potentially multi layered steel head gaskets, o-ringed blocks, ARP hardware, external engine clamps etc. Limiting the ability to travel along that curve unless the block is built for it. The above is a very good turbo, let us look at some older smaller turbos to see the short comings. So here we see a common turbo upgrade the T04E 57 trim. You can see at peak efficiency this turbo makes about 32lbs/min at a pressure ratio of ~2.4 spinning the turbo at about 96k RPM. So at about 21PSI you can expect about 320hp. By keeping the wastegate shut longer you can increase the turbine speed. Hot air is not as dense as cold air to start so you might flow more air as is logical, but the air coming out of the turbo will be hot, less dense, and the turbo will in turn have premature wear. Trying to get 450hp out of this turbo would be very unwise. You would be fighting it in some regards. That is some vary basic info on turbo sizing and reading compressor maps, there are guides out there that are better for sure so please refer to them. Nomenclatures Now it seems like each company has their own nomenclature not all of them consistent VF turbos found on subarus for example are numbered by generation VF22 and VF42 being of a similar size with the VF23 and VF24 for example being much smaller. Borg Warner uses a single digit body size followed by the inducer value. So S257 would be a S200 series body with a 57mm inducer, an S364 would be a S300 body size with a 64mm inducer. S464 would be a S400 body size with a 64mm inducer, the last example suddenly throws a bit of a wrench in understanding if you are not familiar with body size. Garrett has sizes in GT. GT30 and GT35 used to be fairly standard nomenclature usually taken off diesel engines referring to an overall size. With more companies expanding into the performance turbo world now we have more choices for example GT30 has a variety of choices like the GT3076 and so on and so on. The first two numbers generally refer to a body size, the later two refer to the exducer on the compressor side Precision likes to use inducer size so 6266 would refer to a 62mm inducer on the compressor and a 66mm inducer on the turbine side. Holset is another company that supplies turbos to diesel engines they also like Garrett and Borg Warner use body sizes HX30 and HX35 and so on. Then you have the T-series which are made by a variety of manufacturers without necessarily a correlation. Usually a body size with a trim designation. T04E 57 trim for example There are 4 main measurements that will help determine turbo size. First is the inducer/exducer of the compressor side, next is the inducer/exducer of the exhaust side. For the compressor, the inducer is where the air goes in and the exducer is where the intake charge is compressed with the larger diameter. For the turbine the inducer is the bigger diameter where the exhaust flow spins the wheel and exits via the exducer. So looking at a cut away it would go: Intake -> Compressor inducer -> Compressor exducer -> Turbine inducer -> Turbine exducer -> Exhaust I would be remiss if I did not discuss trim. The term trim is used to compare the two values. Trim is calculated by (inducer/exducer)^2 * 100 for the compressor and (exducer/inducer)^2*100 for the turbine. This is useful information if you are say talking about the same compressor or turbine housing. The trim would tell you the ratio between the inducer and the exducer. The larger the number correlates to a larger wheel given the square comparison. The downfall is that theoretically the same trim value can be used for the same ratio wheel, and frankly is a slightly harder concept to decipher and grasp, although in the chart below I will include the calculated values. So the next easy comparison is compressor exducer to turbine inducer comparison with the compressor wheel coming first. This tells the diameter of the two wheels in the turbo. The only caveat is that older turbos can have small compressor inducers, that means the blade on the wheel is going to be very skinny then flare out wide at the bottom. So a holset HX30 which we would call a 7370, will not match a BW S257SX-e which is a 7670 as the holset has an inducer of 44mm vs the BW 57mm

Yea, ceramic coating was ~$150. There is a company that does it locally for $80 so I passed on it the first go around. Now that it is all assembled I'm kind of on the fence to take it all apart again. I ordered a Thermal Zero lava blanket to try out. Not doing anything would just be inviting catastrophic failure at some point.

Interesting badjuju and I found that the early 240z's seem to have the most clearance. We fit the massive R154, me without trimming anything, him with removing the later z style mounts. Mind if I ask you if you are going to use a turbo blanket? I just started mine up and revved it and reached in to check some wires and the wires which are probably a good 4 inches or so away were hot to the touch as was the fender. Borg warner says not to use a blanket, but I think without one under full load this is going to cook the wiring.

I'll have to keep an eye out. I didn't see any good looking lots. The most promising one was like 100ft of each of 6 colors for $250. Well good news is everything works now. Can someone confirm if there is supposed to be a fusible link type deal in the 240z engine bay? I've changed so many things I'm not sure what is supposed to be there and what I added. Looking up diagrams as I am posting. So as far as I can tell this is what I did/what happened. Way back when, I shorted the fusible link when I ground the white wire thinking it was a ground. That fusible link connected to the chassis harness to the engine bay and sits somewhere along the passenger side rail. I replaced that length with an inline fuse adapter. When I drained my battery, in my haste I did not let it charge fully. Doing so I must have shorted a cell. This caused the sensing circuit in the alternator to think I was not making anywhere near enough voltage so it dumped the available amps into the system. This in turn blew my inline fuse for the main power and somewhere along the lines the connection between the alternator and the battery. Replacing the inline fuse has restored all my ignition switch capabilities by powering the cabin. My new 6 AWG wire with the 80amp maxi fuse I am guessing is bypassing the alternator to battery connection which must have shorted an inline fuse I hid somewhere or burned up the fusible link. Edit: According to this nicely colored image All credit goes to saridout1985 White wire starts from starter solenoid power which is in turn fed by a thick wire from the battery. White wire which is fused with a fusible link goes into the cabin to the ammeter. From the ammeter this connects to the white wire with red stripes. This W/R wire goes to the fuse box. From the fuse box W/R goes directly to the alternator. There is another white wire being fed from the voltage regulator, is that just a wire to signal the voltage regulator? That would make a world of sense, that would mean as the amps traveled from the alternator through W/R it traveled along W then blew the fuse before it could get to the battery junction and onto the battery. The fact that the car was not charging makes sense as there is a break from in the circuit. The question then comes to if there is harm in what I did with feeding the battery straight from the alternator. The alternator is internally regulated so it shouldn't output more than the signal wire will allow. The confusing part is what the external voltage wiring delete actually does. Edit 2: So looks like there is supposed to be another fuse on the alternator to fuse box circuit. My new fused 6 AWG wire from the alternator to the battery must be bypassing this wire and the either hidden burnt out fuse or burned out fusible link. Given that this is supposed to go to the fuse box instead of the battery that makes me a bit worried that the way I have done it now I am running all the power through the white wire. The only thing I'm using is the brake lights and the horns since my headlights are on relays. So it might be ok. I will have to go back and find out if the alternator wire is indeed the one that goes to the fuse box. I imagine I will be able to take that off completely and the car will still run confirming my pathway, and running a continuity test will reveal there is a break in that wire from the alternator to the fuse box. I definitely would have torn the wiring harness apart, but with the turbo and exhaust it makes things difficult. Taking the turbo off wouldn't be too bad if it wasn't for the drain which was an extremely tight fit.

Goodness that is quite the quantity. Hmm well I didn't get a reading at the ignition switch. Means there is a break between that and the battery. I am regretting not doing a full rewire. At the same time, the more I put it off the more I will learn and be able to apply lessons learned. I could probably tease out a few lbs of wires while leaving spots to tap for future projects. The things I would do if I had time and space.

Small update: Parts store did not have maxi fuse holders so I ordered one online. Bought some 6 AWG wire. Getting the ends on was very difficult, I ended up partially crimping then soldering the ends closed. Replaced the power wire off the alternator, this lead to a white wire in the datsun harness. I unconnected that end from the battery as well. With the new alternator wire the engine runs very happy if I hot wire it. Started up and immediately was running 14AFR at idle. Battery was also being charged going up to 14.3 and slowly climbing up. Wired the ignition wires back to take signal from the switch and no dice. No lights turning on no ignition signal. Two things to note, the horn does not sound either. Additionally I did remove all the bulbs to prevent a potential fire hazard as well as the speedometer. I don't see any wires running through them, anyone catch something wrong off the bat there? The ignition test seems to work. Both switches seem to run correct pathways when cycling through. Also correct me if I am wrong, but the white wire with the red stripe should be full power to the car correct? It should be hot all the time no? Does the white wire in the engine bay turn into the white/red stripe? I'm going to have to stare at wiring diagrams for a bit.

Well you do have a pretty good sized wastegate with decent priority so your boost control should be fairly effective. I hear ya I had to pay quite a bit extra to get the hotside size I wanted. If I wasn't limited by space I would have definitely considered just stepping up for the cost savings alone. Quite a few of us coming online, very exciting!