seattlejester

Hmm I'm just not sure how a deep hole repair like that would go. On an iron block or head I believe the standard practice is to grind it all out and build the material back up via welding, but welding cast aluminum is quite tedious even to begin with (not that welding cast iron is easy). Would be interested in what an expert has to say. I know my local machine shop offers repairs for things like iron heads and blocks, but I don't recall a similar offering for an aluminum head.

Nice apophasis. I meant in pure regards to fitment. Of course it doesn't move by much, but the strut basically touches the body at full droop. You don't get droop with this type of coilover, but is it enough say up top especially when you leave the options of top hat in the ether? So you want someone to buy these, buy coilovers, remove their suspension, cut off the strut tube completely making it not usable for any other type of weld on system (gc, bc, mckinney, arizona, etc etc etc), put it on, reassemble the whole rear end, only then to find out if it even fits? What happens if it touches the body? Will you offer a refund? Will you send them the revised version? How would they go about removing and installing the revised version with it all welded in? Is there a way to index to make sure the adapter is installed straight? What about height? Will an S13 coilover be tall enough? Are you factoring in a camber top hat? I get that it is your creation, and that you had success with the Z31 chassis and such, I get that your guard is raised, but I'm genuinely curious here and all for more options.

Depends on how far it propagates. I'm not sure welding would be an option given the location. Maybe some compound could be used, or maybe a sleeve, but without knowing how deep it goes down or how far it goes back can't give a solid answer. Unless there has been a lot of work done to it, it may be easier to find another N47

I'm with rturbo have you tested this on a car? The rear strut more or less sits in a pocket. You would get a little bit of room comparatively as the spring perch is a smaller diameter so you could theoretically take up some of that freed space pushing the strut more vertical, but I'm not sure there is enough space for a full offset like pictured. I know buying fronts was a bigger thing when the DC2 swap was pretty popular, but even then the only company that was offering that was like megan or god speed. Are individual coilovers more readily available now?

Sorry to slightly thread hijack, but maybe useful for Zetsaz as well. jpndave, what do you suggest for an entry aluminum capable TIG setup? Just your average hobbiest, Everlast has come up. Once again Eastwood has the cheapest option with the manual knob adjustable unit, but I stand by my former statement. Your thoughts?

Nice to see you're still around. As long as the ring gear bolt holes and spacing are the same you should be able to swap in just the center section like on the R200. I guess the problem is finding out if the bolt holes on the ring gear are the same diameter and pattern. Also looks to be slight difference between early and late R180. I know my STI R180 was a 3.7, could you not just swap to an STI ring and pinion that fits your need?

I did a bit of searching and a friend offered to pickup one off of summit to push his order over the free shipping. I got the thermo-tec cool it mat. One pack was enough to do the trans tunnel and the fire wall. Pretty easy to install. Just get a knife with a disposable blade and a good concrete floor. There wasn't any smell associated with it and it dropped my in cabin temps about 40*F on hot days (on 90*F days my car would be 110*F inside, after it would be about 70*F). I think you would need two if you wanted to do like the door panels and the trunk area.

Knowing nothing I want to guess a BMW rear end and an S13 front end based off of all sorts of generalizations.

Yup definitely graduated from HF, better then nothing, but yea not by much... If you have a helpful hookup take advantage! Just be warned you can sink money into equipment real fast

More progress. Had a hickup when I ordered the wrong size intake setup. Turns out they also stepped down a size from 4 inch to 3.5 inch on the turbo inlet so spent a while sorting out the returns for that. Tried out a new aluminum welder. Younger guy, definitely not as experienced, but he was local and cheap. Definitely do want to get a TIG in the future. Decided to do weld on bungs on the oil catch can as well. Not really worth the effort of the brass fittings as it would not really grab and the tap wasn't cutting quite deep enough. Ended up cutting the sc300 radiator hose as it came in at an odd angle. Hope was to forgo the piece of metal tubing, but I had to incorporate it to bridge the gap. It ended up leaking so I had to play around with it more, but should be fine for the first start. The top hose was fairly simple a straight shot from the radiator to the head with a slight twist. I was a bit overzealous with the cutting. Basically going to have to revisit this in the future at some point, maybe go with some flex hose or something of that nature. Got the cover installed and the COPs and the injectors plugged in. I ordered a replacement plug for the coolant sensor, I was really annoyed to find that it was inverted of the sensor in the motor. Went to the parts store and found the replacement just doesn't use any indexing grooves so picked that up and installed the coolant temp setup. Finished wiring all the little things as well as plumbed up the boost control solenoid and the wastegate plumbing. Also smacked in the dipstick. The curvature makes it very awkward and it doesn't even come close to lining up with any of the mounting points, it was for a GTE motor so it was somewhat expected. I ended up just slipping some foam over it so it doesn't rattle against the intake. Also installed the heater bypass hose. Had to weld up a random barb on the pipe. Then the distributor blockoff plate. Ideally I would have had the machine shop just throw in a plug, but forgot to ask. So I used a bandsaw and cut through the distributor base plate. Found a freeze plug 555-011 IIRC that fit the hole and tapped it in. Then I decided to fill the radiator. Got almost all the way to the top before I sprung a leak. Turns out there is a hose barb under the inlet, not sure what it routed to in stock format, but definitely there. Did the old bolt and hose trick to seal that up. So far it is holding the coolant. Planning on replacing the gasket on the oil drain plug, then filling with oil. Hopefully the battery has enough of a charge to crank to prime the pump and simultaneously I'm going to try and grab the timing offset from the new crank sensor mount. I probably shouldn't be lazy and hookup the oil pressure sensor and disconnect the oil drain on the turbo to make sure it is getting sufficient pressure before trying to start the car. Then just a matter of trying to start the car. I'm going to leave the intercooler coupler off so it should be NA while I get the settings all dialed in and check for leaks. Then it will be a matter of making sure the boost control is functioning correctly and tuning for the bigger turbo.

Damn that is really cheap lol. I would say for eastwood stuff you kind of need to be familiar with the function and parts of a welder. They are good about returns/exchanges, but that can get tedious after the first one or two if you are unlucky, better to be able to diagnose if it is the drive unit of a loose connection to be able to fix it yourself or if the controller board or something is toast and you need to send it in. If you get a working one it seems like they are ok. I've done all my stuff with a hobart handler. They are about $500 new. Honestly though with 220v I would be really tempted to invest in a DC/AC TIG machine, granted we are getting into 4 digit territory there. Just remember a tank to buy outright is about $150 or so here (rental is $70 or so a year). Add in $40-50 for a fill, leathers, a nice autodimming welding mask ($100-500), probably want to plan on having an extra $3-400 on top of the welder cost. I was all for the $40 harborfreight masks, until it failed to dim on me one time, had a nice blue spot in my vision for 2-3 days.

^The diagrams have the color, location, pinout, and shapes. If the FSM is too difficult to follow, then you might want to just get a complete harness from another car.

Interesting. On the 2jz and 7m there is a barb on the back of the head, does the 1jz not have that? Pretty cool to hear about, there is a lot of debate on the subject whether to loop or to block off. Some people swear it doesn't make a difference, others say the engine will blow without it. Someone found a plumbing diagram and found that on the sc300 the 2jz dead heads when the heater is off so it shouldn't make a difference, while on other cars it seems to have a bypass to loop when the heater is off and to open and pass through the heater when it is on. The premise was to always do the bypass if you could help it, but there was some counter argument about the coolant that goes via that route would be hotter then expected and would mess with the thermostat if it bypassed right away instead of passing through the heater matrix. Cool stuff, looks like you are in good hands!

Interesting, well according to some math the 2.25 would really not have been suitable for anything much above stock levels. I believe the term aerodynamic drag starts coming into play with 400-450hp in 2.5 inch tubing. What does the water hose feed? The throttle body? Or does it make its way back and into the heater matrix? I guess the BOV thing is a matter of preference. Some would say if the turbo is slow to build having the BOV on the exhaust side would allow the more of the charge pipe to retain boost so take less time to build up pressure, on the other hand the pressure spike is the highest right next to the throttle body when it shuts. I've heard similar things about 90's coil packs. Definitely a point of upgrade whether it is LS, 2000 era coils from a toyota, etc etc. Given there are jzx 90, 100, 110, soarer, etc one file might be more advantageous to use over another in terms of slight improvement or different more efficient values. Definitely please do!

^Same always nice to know what professionals recommend.

Unless you plan on legitimately just taking the spindle and trying to graft onto the stock hub, then your connection points would need to altered was what I was in reference to. Yes the ball joint on the bottom and the tie rod are fairly simple to sort, but the coilover is a macpherson type. You could go out and find the brackets, cut it off, then transfer them onto the stock strut, but then you don't get all the aftermarket goodies like coilovers to choose from. So it kind of snowballs. I mean unless this is going to be a one time fabrication and done type of deal, I would say to work your way up to it. You don't have to dump a ton of money into a stock type setup, but find what you actually want to change and then tackle it later?

Hmm definitely benefits to be had. You can do even one better and get the race oriented ball joints and not have to worry about regreasing or tearing a boot on a ball joint. But shorter knuckles usually translates to more steering effort. While at speed it might not be bad, but without some kind of assist that would make low speed driving a bit more difficult, then that begs the question do you swap in an electronic kit or swap in a power steering kit, then the options for S13 start to make a lot more sense, then you get to why not swap in the whole front crossmember and such. Another concern would be the track width, if you kept the S13 style front mounting it is going to push the hub further out from the body. You could run some high positive offset wheels, but that brings up the concern with hitting the tension arm. So you would have to run a neutral or negative offset wheel most likely which would push the wheels quite outside the body. Alternatively you could make the pocketed style S13 arms. Then again, you could also just buy the S13 arms at that point and bolt it onto the S13 cross member and do a full transplant of that setup. My problem with this line of thinking is that if you take a step back it doesn't really make sense to do all this to an old car (granted this is the forum of not making financial sense ). Like running someone pointed out once you swap in a V8 and start to consider a live axle you are basically building a muscle car/corvette. Alternatively swapping to S13/14/15 suspension front and back kind of makes those cars really viable looking, like you can buy an S13 and have access to cheap big brake kits, a plethora of axle and differential options, coilover options, wheel options etc. I guess it depends on how far you want to go with it. I mean swapping to the S13 suspension with the 7m recessed far back probably won't be as difficult if you were trying to retain the L28 in stock position or run a front sump 4 cylinder. Swapping to S13 parts would be a safe bet for parts availability, but the fabrication work involved, does it offset maybe paying a bit more for S30 specific parts? There are more options now more then ever compared to say 4-5 years ago. My big 0.02 lol.

Congrats! There was a member that had some "stock" plates made up to repair his botched shock towers in one of the BC threads. He was offering the cad designs. Alternatively there was some talk of using bolt in/weld in camber plates. I think it would just be a matter of finding out the hole size and either having BC use a shock with the correct diameter or having a bushing made up to go down to the correct diameter. Memory says it is a 14mm on the TTT camber plate, and for some reason I want to say the BC's were 12mm or so, or I could be completely talking out of my arse.

It really depends on the tire, I've had 205 tires wider then 225's of another make, General makes tires wider, falken seems to make tires skinnier. A 225 on a 7 inch is not bowed in, it sits with the sidewall vertical on bridgestones, and kumho's might have a bit of a bulge, but I almost attribute that to just a softer tire. Hard for me to imagine pulling one side an entire inch further out. Or that same tire two inches. I guess it also depends on the rim. You have to determine your purpose for the car. If you want it to look good then your tire choice is going to depend on what aesthetic you are going for. If you want the car to perform then it is pretty much about getting the most tire with the desired compound, probably less sidewall, unless you are targeting a certain weight then it would be about the tire compound. The cross section seems to be a 225/50/15 for looks/performance/street. Still a bit of side wall so you get cushioning, low enough sidewall so it doesn't appear tall, good width for stock bodied cars. If you want width you can step up to a wider taller tire, just trying to stay in the 23-25 inch range would be advantageous not to make the car look too far from what it was designed around. Up to you how you play around with the width, you will find that some sizes are popular and have more choices because they came like that on certain cars etc just fish around.

Not sure what you mean by only option. 225 will go on a 7 inch, a 225 on a 9 is going to be quite a stretch. You might consider looking at something with a taller sidewall to compensate to keep the wheel/tire diameter in a realistic range if stretch is your game. 225/60/15's have quite a bit of choice for example, or if tire width is desired you can do other sizes like 245/40/15. You just have to step down to miata/E30 diameter. In the 24 inch category there just isn't too many choices.

Ace Hardware was where Fernando told me you could get some.

^Wouldn't the TC arms get in the way? That does seem like a lot of effort. A quick look at aftermarket offerings from mckinney and even CX show better baffling then the factory. If you guys are sufficient at fabrication you can modify or make a new windage tray if you wanted that benefit. I imagine the end result being an awfully offset style crossmember based off of where that was going. I'd be concerned with the rear deflecting. I suppose with enough gussets and triangulation it might not be that bad. Seems like a lot of fabrication for a fairly small net profit (your time and labor).

Lacking information. Car? Use? In general no, if you have a high capacity pump and good diameter fuel lines you do not need a swirl pot. If you have an earlier car and are running the 1/4 inch diameter stock lines and do not plan on replacing them then yes, you will need a swirl pot. Granted unless you had the electronic pump fitted you wouldn't have a way to fill a swirl pot as the mechanical pump is driven by the cam. Which would mean cutting or modifying the factory fuel system anyways to fit an electronic pump at which point you might as well just pull out the stock lines and replace them with larger diameter lines and a high capacity fuel pump and forgo the swirl pot. Alternatively if you do not have a baffled EFI tank and do not plan on modifying the stock one a swirl pot may be beneficial if you plan on doing hard braking and hard cornering.

Well that was a big load of bull. There is plenty left to do... To start off I went and retimed the motor as the TDC mark was off. Visually I had hit all the indicators, but seems like the belt hadn't picked up the right tooth. I am curious if it has to do with running the thicker head gasket, I imagine that affects the belt length. Regardless, I found this diagram online. Counted the teeth and marked the indicators and re-aligned the belt. Added the pressure reference ports with this snazzy turret fitting. Then reassembled the baffles in the valve cover with RTV and loctite and painted them with some high temp engine enamel and clear. Found some holes in the dump so checked the rest of it and plugged up any holes, taped it off and threw on a coat of header paint. Gapped the NGK BKR7E plugs to 0.028 and installed it into the head. Bought some gasket paper and made a new gasket for the throttle body. \ I noticed the dump was running awfully close to the brake line. While with the poly mounts I doubted much movement, I feared the radiating heat might cause trouble. I conferred with a friend who said if I planned on doing any track driving even with a heat wrap I would be generating a lot of heat at the dump and suggested I move the brake line now. You can imagine how close the brake line is to the dump. Luckily when I routed my brake lines I went with CuNiFer which is very easy to bend. It was a matter of undoing the P-clamps and moving the line onto the frame rail. More clearance for the exhaust and a much appreciated reprieve from heat for the line. Plan is to throw on a spark plug protector just for some added protection. I picked up the lower radiator hose from an SC300 from the auto parts store, and I think I'll be able to cut up and reuse my upper radiator hose. My friend also dropped off our collective intercooler pipe box so I should be able to route my intercooler piping. Still need to do a bit of work with the turbo, I think I found a good orientation. Now I have to take the compressor housing off, drill out the pressure reference port, and clock the center section. The list is long and I keep remembering things to add to it, but definitely getting closer and closer.

Ooh wiggins clamps, I just started reading about those, super fancy.