LLave

I just saw a video clip of a guy who welded some supports to a rototiller and strapped his tank to it. It was brilliant. I filled mine with BBs and screws, duct taped it shut and shook it for a while. Worked pretty well.

Well... How much do those weight? How much does an L series way?

It is really the top frame rail of the front of the car. No idea what is is actually called. Many people (me included) add a bar from the end of the rocker up diagonal to that frame to supplement it.

I am starting to feel like maybe I made a mistake going all poly everything.

GM Atlas Motors, I5 or I6. They are awesome and way under utilized. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-1108-turbocharged-vortec-inline-six/

I built mine with universal poly bushings, my backup plan is to source replacement bushings in rubber or something softer than poly. Perhaps energy suspension hyperflex in the 70a durometer flavor. http://energysuspension.com/universal-products/link-flange-type-bushings-universal-mounts-isolators.html

That looks great! Is that the II Much VSR vent? I am using the same vent. However II Much is taking forever to get me a replacement after their recall. First it was back ordered, then I finally get it, and it gets recalled! Now its been 7 months... Beautiful product but come on man.

I have used the spay max epoxy. It works pretty well. A can doesn't go very far. Make sure you wear a real respirator. That is real 2k epoxy and would assume it contains ISOs.

It looks incredible. I want to have all my LS brackets and covers done.

The car looks amazing! Can I ask, what was your process to clean up the cast engine parts? They look amazing!

Like all rust. The only REAL repair is to replace. But ospho and a good primer will slow it down a ton.

That car requires a full structural restoration for sure. That is what it is.

That fire off the 5 was crazy. Stay safe up there.

That car will require much cutting and welding. Be honest with yourself about your skill level and dedication. Then just go for it. Good luck buddy!

Great work as always. Those ARP bolts and nuts sure look sharp.

Well, you are in the right place, there is TONS of info on here. Start in the stickies section. You can always pick up the trusty JTR swap book. I used to run a SBC with a T5... the T5 was on borrowed time for sure, but it does fit well.

That is some HybridZ stuff right there. Love it.

Killer work as usual. Everything looks really solid. Plenty of room for headers around that steering shaft

On my 260z (early) the rear section of the bad dog connectors did interfere with the factory sway bar.

Welcome to HybridZ. I see you posted this question in two different locations, that is typically frowned upon. Worth a quick read: There is a ton of wheel fitment info on here. I like to search using google, if you put int "site:hybridz.org " then whatever you are looking for it will search just hybridz.

Wow! The car looks amazing. That exhaust came out great.

Looks amazing. The body shop did a good job.

I purchased all my materials but haven't begun fab yet. My plan is dual 2.5 using: JTR/Sanderson headers, long tubes would make more power, but I just don't have much room. X-pipe (If it fits, if not, h-pipe). MARMAN FLANGE - from ebay, they are a more forgiving V-band. Sort of like a ball flange meets a V-band. Dual Hooker Max Flow mufflers. Modified, I cut them apart and made them a bit a smaller. I have no idea how they will sound, I imagine a bit louder, but they are fairly quite (see muffler test data below) Speedway motors hangers (https://www.speedwaymotors.com/SS-Exh-Hangers-Weld-On,184894.html) I intend on trying to leave space to add cats or a resonator if the car has too much LS rasp. Again, I haven't built anything yet, so I don't REALLY know what I am talking about. I hope to get to it later next month. Muffler Test All tests via an independent labAll tests @ 15” wc2 “ Straight Pipe 283 CFM2 ¼ “ Straight Pipe 365 CFM2 ½ “ Straight Pipe 521 CFM2 ¼” Typical Bent tailpipe 268 CFM2 ½” Typical Bent Tailpipe 417 CFM2 ¼” Inlet/Outlet_ Glass Pack Tips- No Louvers- Smooth 274 CFM2 ¼” Inlet/Outlet- Glass Pack Tips-Louvered 133 CFMSame as above set for reverse flow 141 CFM2 ¼” Cherry Bomb 239 CFM2 ½” Cherry Bomb 294 CFM2 ½” Inlet/Outlet Dynomax Super Turbo 278 CFM2 ½” Inlet/Outlet Ultraflow Bullet 512 CFM2 ½” Inlet/Outlet Gibson Superflow 267 CFM2 ½” Inlet/Outlet Flowmaster ( 2 Chamber) 249 CFM2 ½” Inlet Outlet Flowmaster ( 3 Chamber) 229 CFM2 ¼” Inlet/Outlet Thrush CVX 260 CFM2 ½” Inlet/Outlet Maremount Cherry Bomb 298 CFM2 ½” Inlet/Outlet Hooker Aero Chamber 324 CFM2 ½” Inlet/Outlet Hooker Max Flow 521 CFM2 ½” Inlet/Outlet Borla Turbo 373 CFM2 1/2" Inlet/Outlet Magnaflow 284 CFMStandard OEM 2 ¼” Inlet/Outlet 138-152 CFMStandard OEM 2 ½” Inlet/Outlet 161-197 CFMThe madrel bending of the pipes done by aftermarket exhaust companies is good for 2-4 h.p. depending on the severity of the stock bends. Most local exhaust places dont have a mandrel bender so changing the pipes out doesnt do anything if pipe size it not increased.My opinion, if its more noise and a little more power just add the best flowing stainless muffler to the current system and never do it again. If you increase pipe sizes, then a local shop and only stainless. Dont care about money but want ease and better gains than most local shops can offer with no pipe size increase, and aftermarket exhaust.NOISE does not mean power, some think it does is why Flowmasters are sold in the numbers they are!!! Thought I would add this review too.The results in HP order: 1.Flowtech Warlock (open) 374.2 hp/ 333.1 tq 2.Bassani Real Street 373.7 hp/ 333.8 tq 3.Hooker Maxflow 373.5 hp/ 333 tq 4.Borla XS 373.3 hp/ 332.6 tq 5.Magnaflow 372.8 / 332.5 tq 6.MAC 372.3 hp / 331.5 tq 7.Flowtech Afterburner 372.3 hp/ 330.1 tq 8.Hooker Aerochamber 372.1 hp/ 330.4 tq 9.Bassani 372 hp/ 333.5 tq 10.Spintech 371.6 hp/ 332.2 tq 11.Edelbrock Performer RPM 370.9 hp / 331.3 tq 12.Borla XR1 370 hp/ 334 tq 13.Flowtech Terminator 369.5 hp / 331.3 tq 14.Dynomax Ultra Flo 369.4 / 333.2 tq 15.Flowmaster 369.4 hp / 331.8 tq 16.Flowtech Warlock 366.3 hp / 325.3 tq 17.No muffs 365.2 hp / 330.1 tq Sound Off in Quietest to Loudest (Decibels): 1.Borla XS, 80db at idle, 90db at 2,000 rpm, 110db at WOT. 2.Hooker Maxflow, 80db at idle, 90db at 2,000 rpm, 120db at WOT. 3.Magnaflow, 82db at idle, 91 at 2,000 rpm, 114db at WOT. 4.Flowmaster, 82db at idle, 93 at 2,000 rpm, 115db at WOT. 5.Flowtech Warlock, 83db at idle, 92 at 2,000 rpm, 112db at WOT. 6.Dynomax UltraFlo, 83db at idle, 94 at 2,000 rpm, 113db at WOT. 7.Borla XR1, 83db at idle, 96db at 2,000 rpm, 118db at WOT. 8.Bassani Street, 83db at idle, 96db at 2,000 rpm, 120db at WOT. 9.Edelbrock RPM, 84db at idle, 93db at 2,000 rpm, 118db at WOT. 10.Bassani Real Street, 84db at idle, 96db at 2,000 rpm, MAX. (120+db). 11.Flowtech Afterburner, 86db at idle, 94db at 2,000 rpm, 115db at WOT. 12.Flowtech Terminator, 86db at idle, 94db at 2,000 rpm, 119db at WOT. 13.Hooker Aerochamber, 87db at idle, 94db at 2,000 rpm, 114db at WOT. 14.SpinTech, 87db at idle, 97db at 2,000 rpm, 116db at WOT. 15.MAC, 87db at idle, 98db at 2,000 rpm, 119db at WOT. 16.No Muffler, 91db at idle, 103db at 2,000 rpm, MAX. (120+db). http://forums.stangnet.com/archive/index.php/t-392314

Stout! This car is not going anywhere. Looks great. That should do the trick. I can't image a diff with one time use fluid, that sounds like a lot of maintenance.

How you doing buddy?