LS1 240Z

if you want to just throw something cheap in it you could probabl find a 350 and 350 TH trans for 200-500 depending on condition and completeness

if you remove the interior pannels, you can look at the area you have in question. if from the rear you can see rust i would suggest getting rid of the inner part that is rusty. as for the actual quarter, the holes are small enough to use body filler, if you tried to cut and weld on it i think you would be going backwards

only because she would have owed you her life and would be eternaly greatful.

LQ4 is the Gen3/4 6.0 L truck motor found in GM trucks. 241 heads are 00-04 LS1 heads (they are really cheap) pick a cam (look around LS1tech for a cam) and 4L60E is the automatic transmission with overdrive (a fairly weak transmission in stock form, but should last a while in a 240Z)

just make sure she knows not to do that when you have the car painted lol glad to see she is interested in cars though, there is no reason why more females are not into cars.

LQ4 with 241 heads, mild cam, 4L60E with a stall.

holy gigantic picture batman!

very nice job. im just letting someone else worry about my cage for $240... cant beat it haha. im working on finishing up a backhalf of a 240Z. i just ran 1x3 tubing through the passanger compartment through the firewall and then Ted it into the front subframe about the same place you have your tube. i want some more support so i think that ill add a tube like yours also. PS love that custom paint job on the rear 1/4

i would have hit the dog

sides of oil dipstick vary from year to year and block to block

F body is front biased. the Y bodies (vettes) have a transaxel, and thats why they have such good weight dist.

automatic C5 verts are the slowest LS1 cars.. they do about 14.2 or so in the 1/4... its pathetic. my bone stock LS1 camaro did a 13.2... they are very nice driving cars though, and have close to 50/50 weight dist.

those carbed setups are hell expensive.. i am going to try to do a veloicity stack injection on my LSx motor in my car eventualy.

dont use comp cams. they are idiots, you call them up and tell them you want a cam with x specs and they will tell you it cant be done and recomend something terrible. (expecialy if you order up some big LSx cam) most of the small companies dont grind their own cams, they have comp cams grind them for them. this is the way it is with thunder racing and texas speed, they both just have comp cams grind all their cams. you can get a cam ground directly from comp, but the people you will talk with will be idiots.

only dont use chubby asian girls

i know that you couldnt build it for that much, if its fairly rust free id say its a good deal. depends on how much you trust your neighbor really.

depends on if you like your paint or not, if you dont care about paint just dust it all off and wash it.

this is what happens when people use the search feature

re-wired harness = not nessecary - $400 EFILive tune done by someone else - $400 Upgraded injectors - correct estimate Upgraded TB - again, not really nessecary an LS6 intake and LS1 throttle body are pretty much all you need. personaly i cant see why anyone would do a carbed set up unless it is a track only one day only car. otherwise you want to be able to tune it and what not. i like the GM carb intakes, they have bungs for fuel injectors. thats the only time id use a carb intake, is to make it fuel injected:D IMO 400rwhp on stock internals through a A4 is a lot

crap, if you want to sell another one that cheap let me know haha

i just got them from ebay, and no, they were only in 15x7

this is the part where i demand pictures

if you get a wheel bolted on crooked it could do it also... check all the lugnuts

thats why you notch the frame. well worth cutting up some cheap japanese steel to use a proven and cheap radiator imo

the only tire ballancers that ive ever seen spin the tire. there is a button on the tire ballancer that you press letting it know if you want to put weights on the outside or inside of the wheel or if you want to put wheel weights on it. i always slelect inside only. no problems ever with ballancing ever, even at 140+