rturbo 930

If you go with EFI, you'll need to go with a standalone EMS like MegaSquirt - that's what I plan to do. Carbs will get the job done, but I'd prefer EFI for reliability and tuning.

Those two swaps will have completely different driving characteristics. I'm in the same situation - I have an L28ET on a stand, and a mild NA L28 in the car. It sounds fantastic, and having the power instantly on tap is great. IMO it makes the car seem much more raw and responsive. I don't know what kind of power I'm making but I'd guess around 220HP at the crank, and it feels pretty quick - and I haven't even gotten to open it up yet. Personally, I think I'm going to end up selling the L28ET. Although there's less power potential, I think the NA motor will end up being much more fun to drive. That said, I'd step up to the STR2.8C if you can afford it.

Just to be clear for those who don't know, the cracks in the A pillars and C pillars are from the lead filler in the joint. It's not a structural crack in the sheet metal. And they occur on all S30s.

If I'm understanding right what you want to do, I think it would be easiest to remove the reverse light from the tail lights themselves, and fill in the opening in the 260z tail panel cover with fiberglass.

The transmission tunnel opening changed between 71 and 72. '70, and both early and late '71 Zs have the small shifter opening which will need to be trimmed, '72+ have the larger opening, and do not need trimming. The later opening extends 2" more towards the front compared to the early style opening.

Look into these: http://www.jenvey.co.uk/ My long term plan is ITBs with EFI. I did a little research on this, and it seems like Jenvey is the best of the bunch.

It's lost a LOT of activity. I realize you were referring to this subforum specifically, but Hybridz as a whole is much slower than it was ~4 years ago. I used to be able to sign in here @4pm when classes got out, and there would be half a page or more of new posts in non-tech. Today, there are posts a month old on the first page. It's disappointing how slow this forum is these days, and IMO it has a bit to do with the forum software changeover.

If you search here you'll find some info on rust prevention. Some people have suggested coating certain places on the car (ie, inside of rockers) in some sort of oil - maybe marvel mystery oil? I don't remember what it was. There's a number of things you can do to prevent rust. But your best bet is honestly to just avoid driving it in the salt. I hope I'm not sounding like a broken record here, but here's a little personal experience: In 1980, my mom's car was stolen from the airport, so they got a 1978 280z to replace it. And from then until 1992, they put ~160k on it, driven year round in NJ. They had a lot of rust repaired in ~1989, which included the passenger door, driver's side outer rocker, both doglegs, hatch sill, and floors. That's a LOT of rust to repair on a 10 year old car. My dad's '86 Jetta on the other hand, after 500k miles and 28 years in the same climate, has just a small rust hole in the floor, the trunk jamb, and there's a small spot in front of the rear wheels. Zs have NO protection against rust, whatsoever, and many of us simply store them during the winter. That's my recommendation. But if you do decide to drive it in winter, that's up to you - but I think you'll regret it.

What kind of numbers are you expecting? Subbing to this thread... Really interested to see what kind of power your motor makes, and if you'd be willing to share, about what it cost you to get there. I have an N47 head that's been ported and polished (but I don't know to what extent) that I think I'd like to modify a bit more - I'd like to see 250hp at the crank.

He is. But I still don't like it. The Z was designed from the ground up to be a sports car. To take away its handling ability defeats the purpose of the car entirely. Bags on a truck, or luxury car make way more sense than on something like a Z or S2000, IMO.

Are you sure that number is at the wheels? I saw that dyno video too, but I assumed the number was corrected to flywheel HP. 370PS is about 365 HP. Assuming 15% drivetrain loss, that motor would have to be making about 430HP. I'm curious what kind of trans/rear end the AS Watanabe car is running though. Here's one that made 409PS - that has GOT to be at the crank. And another that made 376PS. If those numbers are at the wheels, I don't even know what to say about that. That's just ridiculous.

I completely agree with you, but... 1) Salt will make your car rust faster than you think. Newer cars are galvanized to help prevent rust, but our Z cars have nothing. 2) You can't really enjoy your car if it's in the shop for months on end having rust repaired. 3) Rust repair ain't cheap. Which is why I'm planning on moving somewhere else where I can drive my Z year round. I'd highly recommend you pick up a winter beater to drive when the roads are covered in salt, in order to keep your Z pristine. I agree, EFI is more reliable than carbs when done right, and I plan on going that route as well, but it sounds like the carbs aren't your issue. Carbs can be extremely reliable. Rather, your problem is that they aren't tuned correctly. If you think you'd like to give carbs another try, check out http://www.ztherapy.com/ ... but in the long run, EFI is probably the right way to go.

Look here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/106920-rt260-lsx-powered/

That's your daily? Damn, I don't think I could bring myself to drive a Z in all the salt they put down here. Looks like though, put up some more pics.

I've never done a flare install, but wouldn't it make sense to make the lip of the flare level with the original lips? Yours are definitely too high IMO. Most flare installs seem to have the lowest part of the flare just touching the dogleg. It looks like you might need to rotate them forward a little bit - the front of the flare looks too high, but the rear looks fine. BTW, how does your car ride on that shock/spring combo you have in your signature? Too harsh for a street car?

Ah, yeah, pictures can definitely be deceiving (been there, done that). I wasn't aware the rules were different for 70 vs 71+ model years. Is there a similar reason you went with an RB20 vs and RB25/26?

That car is almost too clean and original to modify.

Personally, I bought a parts car. I'd go that route vs. a junkyard, or otherwise, since you can (sometimes) see that the engine actually runs, and if it makes any noises (rod knock, etc.)

That's true. I doubt they're light. But I definitely think they'd look better than the Recaros in your Z. The 944 seats are shaped more like the Z seats than the Recaros are.

I've seen those before, and I've always wanted to put them in a Z. IMO they're a perfect match for the interior.

Wow, three years later, almost to the day! You're really lucky dude. How did he manage to find them?

Personally, I wouldn't.

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?45526-TL-Bi-xenon-in-7-quot-round-housing-on-a-Classic-Mini

If that's the attitude you have, maybe this isn't the right community for you.

Well, it's still a hell of a lot better than mine!