1 tuff z

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Looks great, I like it! Me thinks you spend too much time with Manny, Moe & Jack!!

Still working on them Bartman-modeling is complete and we're now in the process of writing the 'code' for the machine...

Keith, we need bigger pics-when opened [at least on my pc] they're only about 3" square-teasers! I'm especially interested in the master cylinder support setup-been thinking about that for my z...

Showed my son your vette-he says "I like it, why don't I have one"?! Told him he has to graduate from college, get a good job and save his money! I'm digging the vette too...

Mine is under the dash, right side behind the glovebox-somewhat visible in the pic/link. http://forums.hybridz.org/uploads/500/speartech_harness_interior_side.JPG

Same thing in mind as this place began producing a few years ago... http://www.hubstands.com/

Rick, PM sent

Replated/restored mechanism $35 shipped, unrestored [mechanically working condition] $20 shipped.

John J, before the v8 and before the supercharged L6 I too rarely changed my pads and was more of a momentum driver. With significantly more power and much higher speeds there is obviously a greater need for increaed brake capacity-I added the ducting to be sure that brake fade would not be an issue.

Here are mine-fabbed from stock backing plates, welded exhaust pipe onto it and purchased silicone hose from summit or somewhere like that-had them zinc plated after the mods were completed. http://forums.hybridz.org/uploads/500/DSC01054.JPG This pic shows the inlet ducts that were made to attach to my Kamanari air dam http://forums.hybridz.org/gallery/image/23068-dsc02518/ Shows ducts mounted in the air dam http://forums.hybridz.org/uploads/1320333963/gallery_176_970_121730.jpg This is the best belly shot I could find-sort of shows the ducting http://forums.hybridz.org/uploads/1338661990/gallery_176_1016_930685.jpg

240, 260, 280 all the same. Which part do you need-there are 2 pieces. One bolts to the hatch, other to the valence near the license plate light. I have both either replated [nice and more $] or unrestored.

Pac_Man, sounds like one of the nuts that secure your door handle have come off and the adjuster nut may not be properly positioned. You can see the adjuster-it is a whitish color knobish looking thing that threads onto the actuating rod which is attached to both the exterior door knob and latch mechanism. Once you verify the door handle mount nuts are installed and tight go about adjusting the knob thing. If too tight then it may not open the door [too tight = too long or adjusted downward on the rod too far] too loose and you'll have to pull really hard on the handle [knob adjusted too high on the rod]. Remove your door panel, roll window up and see if they are both still there. For the window, you may need to remove the window frame in order to get all the rails back into place. Other way is to unbolt the rails one at a time to get them back onto the rollers-it's not an easy task but with patience it will happen.

Jim, thanks for the compliments. We have yet to finish the interior and I need to update the thread with more pics. My son Alan [17] has been driving this past fall to a reserved parking spot at school. Daughter Emmma [15] only drove it when we first got it [while sitting on my lap as she couldn't reach the pedals]. No accidents-although there have been 2 near misses which have shaken Alan... We live in W. Irondequoit, just north of the zoo-about 10 minutes from Kodak on Ridge Road!

Reminds me of our father-son-daughter project/journey we began a little more than 4 years ago. Thread; http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/74413-new-z-joins-the-1tuffz-family/page-2?hl=jade&do=findComment&comment=753044

Need to do a bit more searching as I'm confident nearly all your questions are somewhere in HBZ. I'll help with what I believe to be correct. Here goes-You will need another pair of cv's from a q45 and special order axles. I believe you'll need a 280z r-200 mustache bar, not the rear hanger from a zx. Then you want to get the Ron Tyler style front mount [Techno Toy Tuning [TTT] sells them], Arizona Z sells the correct mustache bar. You cannot use zx stubs in the s30 chassis. You can, however upgrade your 240z stubs to the larger 280z stubs and in the process install new bearings. Where are you in Canada [please update your location with that detail], I ask as there are many members on HBZ who I know would be willing to help but if they knew where in CA you live.

Project is coming along nicely, what color you going with for the engine bay?

Subscribed!

Keith, general surgeon or specialist?

Complete your profile with your city/state so we know your location and the mods don't flame you. It's in the rules, read them.

If you mean the cv cage [holds the cv balls] then yes, they are the same. <blockquote class="ipsBlockquote" data-author="CrayZ" data-cid="1035398" data-time="1357572844"><p>Does anyone know if the stock q45 axles have the same bearing cup on both ends? I only need two cups and don't want to order two complete axles if I can get away with ordering one.</p></blockquote>

I ran into the same problem after I got the bright idea to have my car aligned with the rear stut tops [which are slotted] adjusted outboard, using the adjustable lcs's to dial in the negative camber desired. My plan was to, while at the track [road courses] move the top of the struts inboard for more negative camber, if needed. Was fine going straight but in high speed corners I heard faint grinding then a loud pop followed by no power to the rear wheels. Initially thougth I snapped an axle or stub axle or blew the diff. None of the above-fractured the cv cage. Finally determined I had exceeded the servicable length of the axle/cv cage assy with my camber alignment idea. Multiple calls/emails to Ross at modern motorsports resulted in zero information and him telling my it was all my fault and not his product. Gotta love that kind of attitude, especially when formulating my decision whether to purchase more from him [never again!]. Anyway, shortened the lca's, fast forward to a few years and thousands of track miles and haven't had the issue again.<br /><br />Lesson-measure the servicable compressed and extended lengths to ensure you do the best to remain wihtin them = fewer headaches & broken parts...<br /><br />My 2 cents worth

Great build, love that you've got your hands entirely into it [rather than paying a shop to do the work]. Where were you stationed in Korea? I was at Camp Humphreys years ago...271st Avn Bn [CH-47 Chinooks]

Link to my "roller", $600! Very little rust... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109920-1971-871-build-240z-roller-for-sale-rochester-ny/