Careless

This is good news =) Glad to hear it was all ok, Q! I'm wondering whether or not I should install the rear head drain, as I've seen two-sided figures on that whole bit. Some say that the oil won't even fully make it back to the sump, and you'd have about a quarter of a litre or more suspended in a line that won't do any good if not in the pan or the head.

Same here, I'm going to use it as a dummy block for now. Compare the needed internals (crank, really) and see which one is in better condition. Takes about an hour or two. All you need is a big Johnson Bar to get anything off that a socket wrench doesn't. YOU MIGHT have trouble getting the timing gear off the crank snout, but Rob (RIPSNZ) has a sure-fire method for taking those out Also, you'll want to take pics as you disassemble it, so you know where things go when you put em back or order new ones. What I had original thought, and what Gary (SydneyKid) Reassured me on was the fact that the N1 water pump was made for a racing circuit, which means the pump is constantly at higher RPM. @ 3000+ RPM, the N1 water pump flows the same that the regular one does (or somewhere around there) at virtually idle. So in stop and go traffic, the N1 pump slows to a crawl, and while the thermostat is open, it only works to slow down the water further, causing heat buildup and hot spots to rear their ugly heads. It's done this way so that the OEM pump doesn't over-pump a high-revving engine at speed and over pressurize and blow out the seals or make the pump collapse. As even fractions of a minute with water seeping out of the engine on the track could be catastrophic in various proportions. If you use the OEM pump, either thermostat will be fine. One opens at 64 (n1), the other at 78 (oem) (my numbers may be off a bit, but it's close to that difference between the two). The RB26 pump I have is anti cavitation (i think it is) and it cost me 100.00 CDN, so it should cost you somewhere around 70.00 NZD since shipping here is more. No need, I know what you're talking about. its the angled runner between the head and the ITB's. So you're adding your own throttle bodies to this? And what Air Horns/Velocity Stacks have you chosen? Velocity of Sound's Intake Runner Length Calculator at 45mm around 5000 rpm and 264 degrees of duration on the 3rd intake pulse wave shows me a runner length of 26.12 cm. That's from the intake valve head all the way to the bell-mouth. I may end up running a piece of yarn from an open valve to the inlet side of the respective throttle body to track the distance between the two, and then measure the difference. The left over of the 26.12cm - yarn marking length = Air Horn length. I doubt the port + throttle bodies + head to throttle manifold will be less than 6cm, and Velocity of sound makes a 45mm Air Horn at 200mm in length, or less (various sizes). Problem is, they're 60 bucks a piece. OUCH! I also found some cool filters for them too. It would require a bit of fabbing, and would restrict the air a quite a bit. As for your piston selection. If you have a 1.0mm headgasket (Is that compressed thickness?), you can get JE Pistons from the N/A VG30DE engine in the Z32 cars. They are 87.5, which is 0.040 over the standard size. They are also 1.260 compression height, when they should be 1.280 for an RB30 (0.5 mm difference) So if you have those pistons run just a tad proud of the deck (about 0.020 out of the bore) and run the 1.0mm headgasket, you can get a sweet quench area and not smash valves, as the gasket makes up the entire quench area. This makes it so that there is minimal head shaving involved. Only enough to clean it up if anything. Now some would say that using the gasket as quench area is bad, and I would agree, but sometimes you have no choice, and there are a lot of people running this way and haven't had bad experiences. It's just those that do have bad ones that we hear about, because some people point fingers at certain things pretty quickly. But that's their experience, and take it for what it is. Just make sure you CC your head correctly, as they vary 3 - 4 cc from one another for some reason. We'll keep piling info in here. Raff

Same here, I'm going to use it as a dummy block for now. Compare the needed internals (crank, really) and see which one is in better condition. Takes about an hour or two. All you need is a big Johnson Bar to get anything off that a socket wrench doesn't. YOU MIGHT have trouble getting the timing gear off the crank snout, but Rob (RIPSNZ) has a sure-fire method for taking those out Also, you'll want to take pics as you disassemble it, so you know where things go when you put em back or order new ones. What I had original thought, and what Gary (SydneyKid) Reassured me on was the fact that the N1 water pump was made for a racing circuit, which means the pump is constantly at higher RPM. @ 3000+ RPM, the N1 water pump flows the same that the regular one does (or somewhere around there) at virtually idle. So in stop and go traffic, the N1 pump slows to a crawl, and while the thermostat is open it only works to slow down the water further (your engine will overheat). It's done this way so that the OEM pump doesn't over-pump a high-revving engine at speed. As even fractions of a minute with water seeping out of the engine on the track could be catastrophic in various proportions (In the case that the OEM pump over-pressurizes the system and pushes seals out). If you use the OEM pump, either thermostat will be fine. One opens at 64 (n1), the other at 78 (oem) (my numbers may be off a bit, but it's close to that difference between the two). I picked up a standard RB26 pump for 100.00 canadian. So that would be like 75.00 NZD in most places. No need, I know what you're talking about. its the angled runner between the head and the ITB's. So you're adding your own throttle bodies to this? And what Air Horns/Velocity Stacks have you chosen? Velocity of Sound's Intake Runner Length Calculator at 45mm around 5000 rpm and 264 degrees of duration on the 3rd intake pulse wave shows me a runner length of 26.12 cm. That's from the intake valve head all the way to the bell-mouth. I may end up running a piece of yarn from an open valve to the inlet side of the respective throttle body to track the distance between the two, and then measure the difference. The left over of the 26.12cm - yarn marking length = Air Horn length. I doubt the port + throttle bodies + head to throttle manifold will be less than 6cm, and Velocity of sound makes a 45mm Air Horn at 200mm in length, or less (various sizes). Problem is, they're 60 bucks a piece. OUCH! I also found some cool filters for them too. It would require a bit of fabbing, and would restrict the air a quite a bit. As for your piston selection. If you have a 1.0mm headgasket (Is that compressed thickness?), you can get JE Pistons from the N/A VG30DE engine in the Z32 cars. They are 87.5, which is 0.040 over the standard size. They are also 1.260 compression height, when they should be 1.280 for an RB30 (0.5 mm difference) So if you have those pistons run just a tad proud of the deck (about 0.020 out of the bore) and run the 1.0mm headgasket, you can get a sweet quench area and not smash valves, as the gasket makes up the entire quench area. This makes it so that there is minimal head shaving involved. Only enough to clean it up if anything. Now some would say that using the gasket as quench area is bad, and I would agree, but sometimes you have no choice, and there are a lot of people running this way and haven't had bad experiences. It's just those that do have bad ones that we hear about, because some people point fingers at certain things pretty quickly. But that's their experience, and take it for what it is. Just make sure you CC your head correctly, as they vary 3 - 4 cc from one another for some reason. We'll keep piling info in here. Raff

Tell me more about these? Is it because you don't have the stock manifolds and throttle bodies that you are using these, or are you referring to the velocity stacks themselves? I currently have the following for my build RB30E -complete - sans sohc head Blown RB26 awaiting shipment from japan HKS 264 deg / 9.5 mm lift for in/ex + Gears coming with RB26 from jpn H-Beam SPOOL rods Wiseco 16cc Dome Pistons with 1.260 compression height (.020 short of std RB30 height - requires decking) Timing Belt for RB30DE (Gates T291) Standard RB26 Water pump (use this if you're building a street car, N1 pumps less water) Z31 200ZR sump/pickup ARP head studs This is my second RB30E block, and I'm going into the garage now to strip it down. Wish me luck

Great, so we can share information then Let me know what you know! Cause so far, you and I are the only ones I know of that are building 26/30 DE's. This is great! Welcome aboard SO... back to the nitts and the gritts: RE: The RB30E Bottom end. Perhaps you'll be making power 15% earlier that is equivalent to the RB26 at a later RPM, and possibly more torque, due to the longer rod length & stroke/force applied on the combustion stroke. However, It would still have to wind up to about 7.5 - 8k, and I doubt we can extract more than 300ps out of these engines. I'm shooting for 300. I've been told 320 sounds achievable by someone who's built some worthy N/A engines before (particularily V8s, but still quite powerful nonetheless). But 280 sounds more realistic. If I can match the stock output of an RB26DETT, then I'll stop there for the time being, until I can afford some super nasty head work. For now, when I get the 26 head, it's just port matching and rebuilding the head, along with a new cam install, as I'm getting HKS 264/9.5's for both in/ex, with adjustable HKS gears.

hey, my car has that high performance black brake gel too!

I believe it's just a regular Nissan pump with a larger pump gear

The R31 House TommyKaira RB30 used a welded chamber RB20 head. There are pics on their website.

150 tooth - 1200mm belt with 8 mm pitch, possibly with CA18DET idler, so that they don't have to force the belt on.

I hope that day arrives in Toronto, so I can find one. =(

yeah tweakit and vpw sell them. I might get them from VPW with the romac balancer.

In regards to the EPS systems: Whichever way you turn is assisted using a motor driven gear that turns the steering shaft for you, instead of using power steering pumps and hydraulic fluid.

I see these stud kits are getting quite popular. I'm going to call ARP again and see what people are pickin' and pullin to have em together.

Man, i wish i had the time that thing's sweet, man.

if that's your weakest link, all the "negative energy" we despise is going to start flowing backwards down the drive line. LOL hope it works out!

NPG+ Coolant!

It's possible that i read it wrong, but i know they have a couple of TK cars in their hands. I still don't think it's good for 240ps. I mean, there's someone on the AUS R31 boards making 210 rwhp from an RB25/30. It's a high comp car too, but I think his cam selection and in/ex air aren't properly fabbed. have to take a look at the pics again. do you know more about these engines? what output? nice pics thanks!

Got a new block. Gave my importer/friend Ted 65 bucks for his time because his engine blew up recently and he's strapped, and we had a fun 4 hour trip (2 forth and back). Had some laughs, jokes, the whole bit. ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ things are way heavy. LOL. I forgot how heavy they were when I first lifted it. Looks like it's time to install a telescoping crane in the scrap-metal hauler Toyo Previa. Wish me luck, gents! gonna try and rip her open tomorrow!

hehe, you NZ builder, you! Thanks for the heads up. I checked it yesterday, and it is indeed the exact same piece. 88 bucks for the GTR one had me wondering. I'll be cataloging the rest of the parts as well, and I will be soon in the market for a flywheel, if I cannot find the Cusco one at a reasonable price. I bought three cam seals, as I remember you mentioning the oil pump seal is the same. However, the VRS Gasket kit comes with cam seals, and not sure if it comes with the front oil seal, so i'll check it out when I get it. This block is getting an entire rebuild, down to every bolt, dowel, and pin. Thanks for the reply. Raff

let me know what flywheel you decide on =)

you won't end up with the wrong pan if you get the right part numbers for what you need. plain and simple. I would just go new on everything at the bottom of the engine, just to be extra safe. oil pans are re-usable and that's fine. But i would get a new sump pickup for sure

now we have to go back and edit years and years of "DOHC L heads" threads, and including the BMZ DOHC Head. who wants to take a month off work?

hey at least having it bolted in makes the welding process much easier when you've squared it all up looks really nice. what process did you use for designing the frame rails

She's a beaut! Someone is selling Z car #59 (1969) on a local board here. Great to see the very first ones off the line being brought back to the road in a new life!

nengun has a lighweight cusco flywheel for 350 bucks.