Careless

spray the inside with rust bullet to seal it. then spare rhino liner over it, or just find a plastic that is similar to the factory ones and use some thick vynil with some light-tack spray glue to paste it into the inside of the flare. one the shape is correct, pull it out gently, and lay it on the plastic and cut it. i dont know if you wanna do that... but rust bullet > POR. you should do either POR or rust bullet on a surface like that for sure.

why not make a new crossmember for the car with some adjustable links. heck if i had to do that for school, then i'd be all over that day and night.

what size are those wheels and what tires? and can you send me pics of the side of your car from a bit more of a distance to guage how well they fit the wells. thanks =)

btw 240zv8, i wouldn't use photoshop on a project like that, as it doesn't scale well with printing. lets say i wanted to print that the size of my door, using illustrator and gradient mesh tool instead of burn and dodge tool in photoshop would be your best bet. as always, make sure you're making the image at atleast 300 dpi. i usually go 600 dpi at the size it will be printed, so i can double the size, or even triple it, as 150dpi is sufficient enough for most printers.

if you wanna see something that takes a long time, how about a Pagani Zonda C12s made of only shapes, and no gradients whatsoever? window would be about 24 layers. headlights and even screws would be more than 5 layers each. and it would look something like this: took me 8 hours. my professor had told the class it was the best he had ever seen, and said it must have taken upwards of 25 - 35 hours, and i just nodded my head. =) i finished this the night before the project was due. it was a mercedes dtm car that i stopped working on first. then a picture britney spears that i did pretty well, but i didn't like the way i did vector'd her face. then i did this with only 10 hours left till class. slept on the way there, woke up 5 min before my presentation. =)

or just weld the seam where the two metals meet. i don't think there is a point in taking out spot welds

i recently went to showcars body parts new store house that they've had in mississauga, ontario for about 6 months. the place is a kind well organized, except the area in the back where parts just take whatever the elements throw at them. Rob is a complete nutcase in terms of organization. he's horrible at it. infact, i don't think it's part of his regime. i had asked him to give me a boost to the gas station so i could use the bank machine to pay for parts, and i literally sat there waiting about 40 minutes with my friend. this was after waiting an hour and a half for him to show up. he told his employees he was going for the "mail". Personally, i think they misunderstood and i think he said "im going for the males" and went to spend a couple of hours at a gay strip club. anyways, i ended up paying 180 canadian for a shitty set of rear flares that I should not have bought. I don't think i can sell these for more than 60 bucks, so I think i'll have to live with it. I had Z fever, so i was hot on getting parts to start up the build. But now that I found that my Z has some bad rear end repair and that I don't want to go ahead with this chassis, and that the other chassis i'm after is probably being sold, I don't have a good set of rear quarters to design/manufacture my flare off of. The reason i paid then and there was because one of his own employees said "when it comes to rob, you'll be lucky to get your part made within the 6 to 8 week period he states for "delivery". You probably wont get it for about 3 months, or more." Atleast now i have a good idea of a bad part and what to steer away from when I start to make my own. EDIT: oh, and i forgot. i told him i was gonna modify the flare to make it looks like the zg's but with bolt holes, and he said "when you're done with them, bring them back and I'll make a mold and give you a set for free" SURE BUDDY, use my work and make money off it because you have all the resources. NOT.

whats up with that fitting? looks like you tried to bend it by hand

look into Impreza red on the 2005 subaru. it is as RED as you will get, and it's quite nice. i wish more people would buy red imprezas

hey jmort, have you thought about using a flat piece of copper, or a penny, and butting it against the sheet metal and welding on the other side to fill any holes that are made while removing the spot welds? a friend of mine does that when welding in the holes on battery trays after removing them from his project cars. might wanna look into that and practice on some poo metal.

mmmmm. ribs

well i did say i was gonna go with a 9 inch wheel at the very least. just wondering what kind of tire i would need that is an all around good tire for a 16 x10 wheel, and if most brake component have trouble fitting into a size that small. namely the s14 brake setups, as i have a s14 rear going on the car.

might i add that colour correction and consistency is far from equal when comparing colours to eachothers monitors. i invite you guys to make something using a print program, and go to a printer to have it output. if you're one of the lucky few billion users who don't have colour corrected monitors, feel free to post your results.

im curios to know whether or not my uncracked 280 dash will fit in my early 260 dash. =/ that would be good info too

can you tell us which version, or link to it, please? that would give us a good idea of where to start when looking for a kit/circuit count.

im not really making a race car though. i mean, for like 400hp/400tq is there a good enough and wide enough tire that can be mounted on say.... 16x9.5? or 16x10? cause if not, i'd have to make my flares for 17x9 or 17x10 or so. know what i mean? I just want to try and remove most of the variables that you noticed in my post. If i can get a lead, that'd help me a lot more as to which direction i will be heading for wheels, because i feel that 17's are a TAD too large, but i'm sure there are benefits of that extra inch in regards to choices for future tire changes and brake upgrades and such.

are there coils from other cars that work better than the standard coils? and are the spitfire coils good, or are they all hype and cheap china crap?

good o'le 94 @ Sunoco here in Canada =)

someone i know who gave me airplane grade fibreglass matting and a LONG lenght of woven fibre showed me this 2 part "structural adhesive" that he said just as strong or even stronger than almost anyhting you bond with it. he showed me a license plate area that he made on his mk2 rabbit, and it was SOLID as any metal i've seen, he even hammered it with a chisel to show me how sturdy it was, and the chisel just bounced off and didnt even scratch it. so it still ahs a TINY bit of flex to it. great stuff, he even uses it for bonding on side skirts and fibreglass panels with the paint still on, because it keeps out aiir better than sanding a panel down and welding it on without preping it right. (which is why my 280z has a huge rusty rear end... both welding and fiberglassing over the welds left air pockets that slowly ate away at the rear area of the car.)

in everyone's personal opinion, what is the best wheel size/tire size for a street cruiser with about 400 hp ish.?? that's a long term goal of mine, and ideally, i'd like to get the proper size wheels so that when i make the IMSA Bolt on flares, they will look nice with the proper size tire and wheel combo. I was thinking of centerline thrusters aswell, with a brushed center, so the painted center would have a slight texture to it when i paint it. whats everyone think? I will have an S14 suspension on the rear too, so toss that into account if it makes a difference. I know it will with offset or backspacing, but im just looking for general wheel/tire combo right now. 3-4 inches away from the body of the zee is my goal, as that's how large the flares will be. might be a tad smaller, but im shooting for that kind of a track width to make it look better =) EDIT: Better yet, what is the wheel size people usually opt for when purchasing new wheels. I find that 17's make the car too high, and it really needs some side skirts on 17's. Im thinking 16's with a bit more meat instead. good idea?

hey guys, im really sorry bout the long wait. Ive just been swamped with work, and i usually come on hybridz to make posts in between garage sessions with me and my zee and whatever else pulls up into my driveway that needs work. i still have the JPEGs of he guages, and i'll post them when i get home.

your lady has a nice rack

so my 280 coupe has what, then ?

1972 through 1976 Factory Four/Five Speed Transmission Ratios 72/76 two piece case U.S. Non-US F4W71B FS5C71B 1. 3.592 2.906 2. 2.246 1.902 3. 1.415 1.308 4. 1.000 1.000 5 n/a 0.864 RearGear 3.36 3.900 (72 thru 76)

ok so i've found a early 260z chassis that could be a good candidate for me to swap parts to. But what parts will i have to change for them to swap into the new 260 chassis from my 280, considering the 260 is of the 240z style chassis. I have all the parts from the 280 so i got next to everything, including doors and fenders and hood and such just wanna know what i'll have to re-buy. I'm going RB aswell, and changing the rear subframe to a s14 subframe, and possibly the fronts too. I'll just put a fibreglass widebody on the 280z when I finish this 260.