Careless

stony hit some low 12's with a virtually stock motor and increased boost levels. I think your goals are well within reach with the turbo setup and the stock clutch, though the clutch may not last long. very nice catch on the SECOND and THIRD car. I can only imagine how far into my project I would be if I started with either one...

sweet... I was wondering because I have a romac balancer for my RB30 and I didn't hear of anyone running one on a high-strung motor yet. thnx

perhaps you have a ground issue and when you put your car into reverse, the ground on the reverse bulbs or sensors is bridged to the chassis, and allows the buzzing to go away through that ground? hey, it could happen.

message me regarding your fan i can help you out with a schematic i drew in fine detail.

How was the romac damper in regards to being out of balance or how well did it dampen... did your machinist make any comments on it?

this same video was posted last year, great vid of the yellowbird.

it looks great with the covers, but the light dispersion is a little whack on the base of the bucket... that kinda looks weird... like the bucket is filled with water.

lol. i wouldnt trust mythbusters with diagnosis and R&D on one of these engines... or maybe any for that matter. some of their ideas are ridiculous interpretations and/or misrepresentations of ways to properly/accurately test for certain criteria and outcomes.

NICE! I think I'm gonna go get me some Neutral Density Filters... what do you recommend though, should I get a 72mm filter and run adapter barrels to make it work with whatever lense I decide to... that way in the event that I get 72mm glass, I can still use them and don't have to rebuy?

gotta defend the turf! it's a hard game to play, this Z Life.

I don't like it cause I don't have it *jealous*

well If I ever get one of those 6-wheel-drive thingies you guys had on the field, I'll definately look into swinging by Norfolk via highway around Christmas... 6 wheel style! LOL

lol I was? I wanna know when too!

not to mention the one that sold the most, if I'm not mistaken.

haven't gotten the turbo back yet (F! DAMN! JEEZ!) but there was some black sticky crap in there too. not spewing out though, but I think that was the oil in there. I bought some crappy quaker state oil to flush my system and got a new filter to run that stuff through. I may do two filters through the crappy oil and then upgrade filter and oil. WHEN i get this turbo back.

+1 for CanadianZ. good guys, good prices, and I'm craving the custard cake-type-thing that I had at their house.

a want is a justifiable need

Well to be honest, most of my friends have never been exposed to really really fast cars. I do have car buddies that are really good friends that have fast cars, like 400ci camaros and bla bla bla. But the Z31 has some good kick in the balls torque for an 80's car. Even when they aren't fast, they feel really fast compared to any honda. Honda's start to grow wings in 3rd gear, so up until that point, you could probably take your buddy. By that time the car's got enough rolling momentum to propel it to higher speeds quite quick. I only drove my car for 10 days before a whole lot of stuff needed to be looked after. It should be ready as soon as I get the T3 turbo back. But I will say that most of my friends who had a ride or two in the car said "holy ♥♥♥♥, you sure this is an 87, man" They are friends that never really felt a torquey motor WITH boost on top of that. I've always known the VG's had torque, there was a 95 pathfinder we had that was pretty ballzy, but the turbo is just so much quicker to respond. I'd say for an 80's car, looking at the prices you can get one for... if you're willing to take care of the common problems and freshen up the engine some or replace with a RB25 or VG33 or so, I'd say they are quite the car for the price. And did It has every option that a lot of cars today don't come with standard if you get the GLL model.

I highly recommend the use of squeeze-clip style injector plugs, unless you like loosing metal injector band-clips in the lower intake manifold, in which they fall into the "lifter valley" of the engine (i know, there are no lifters, but what else is it called. lol). besides, you may wanna atleast take that gasket off and fix it... and clean all the rats nests under there. you may even find a dead mouse.

and I had it done, but my turbo started to leak oil or something... so now I pulled the catch can and hoses. I will get picks soon.

i agree with daeron... if one has the block, and clutch kit, and has access to a nissan FS5R30A trans from a Z32 or a Late Turbo Z31, as well as some 5/8ths MDF and a mill or a water jet cutter that's local... then I would start with that part first. Once you can get the car to actuate the clutch properly with combo setup, you could work on the other stuff... modifying a chassis to work first and then finding the trans is incompatible or too hard to bother with is not the best idea.

use a RETHREADER to chase holes and push the threads back into shape slowly, and use a TAP to cut new material into the threads. I usually avoid TAP use in holes that need to have the fastener torqued to a certain spec. The way I see it, the bolt's torque is relative to the amount of thread engagement within the hole it is being threaded into, and some threads are a little more aggresive than others. If you TAP that thread, you are effectively removing thread.

both valve cover breathers go to a single catch can that has a filter. any air sucked in by the system will come through the filter, any pressure being relieved from the system will be expelled form the filter. if you want, you can put a filter on the valve cover that sucks in, and then run a hose to the inlet infront of the turbo (after the maf) and the effect of vacuum from the compressor wheel will suck the draft through the filter on the valve cover, through the crank case, pull oil with it into the catch can, and take the vapours and throw them into the turbo. it evacuates a lot better this way, but oil vapour is exactly that... oil vapour.

lol. nice. another z31 owner in Ontario with honda buddies! I didn't think this day would come! RB20 = FS5W71C Trans, similar to L28, KA24, CA18, SR20 trans. RB25 = FS5R30A Trans, a lot more stout.

engine checked out fine on a cold -2 degree day (didn't start for 2 weeks), with 150 across all cylinders. It's not the first car I've seen where the PCV system itself was just inadequate. I don't like the idea of PCV into the intake at all. but to each their own!