Miles

240Z SBC Hooker block hugger headers 2 1/2 in. exhaust Note clearances for oil filter, starter, clutch slave, transmission etc. Also, flange at end of transmission tail stock to allow access to driveshaft without complete removal of exhaust.

Search the drivetrain section for laser alignment tools developed by some Hybridz members. They consist of laser pointers modified with magnetic bases that are placed on the trans output shaft and the differential input shaft. Using two of them would give information about vertical and horizontal alignment of the driveshaft. search terms like "laser driveshaft" or "laser phasing" etc.

Some of the information in the JTR manual is a bit scattered in other sections. From my my Seventh Edition JTR manual: Installation page 8-2 "If you are using an automatic transmission, check for adequate clearance around the transmission. Also, make sure there is room to route the exhaust around the transmission. If there is going to be a problem, hammer the transmission tunnel to gain clearance." I read this 17 years ago when I was deciding to go T5 or 700r4 in my son's 240Z. We went T5. Can't believe I remembered this.

Which installation kit did you use? JTR, MSA, John's Cars etc. JTR recommends making a dent in the tunnel on the passenger side to make room for the 700r4 trans. If I recall correctly from the JTR manual, the JTR engine mounts offset the engine to the passenger side.

The following seems to apply here: The way that the hood and the urethane front fascia interface has created a hinge point. Also, once the car is on the road, vibration will cause the bondo and paint to crack along the seem. Possible solutions include: Stiffen the joint where the urethane front fascia and the hood interface by adding a doubler plate under the seem and Modify the support structure for the urethane front fascia such that hood and the urethane part move as a unit without flexing. Or leave as two separate parts with a seem showing as JMORTENSON suggested above. Best solution: Leave the seem showing

https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978 Download the FSM here: http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html

Welcome. Suggest that you search the FAQ and Suspension forums. All of the data you seek is there. Useful information: Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/48825-factory-manuals-some/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-1208329 Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Search the forums. Useful Links: https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness http://zhome.com/ https://www.zcar.com/ http://www.classiczc...com/index.html/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html

Procedure is in the FSM Useful information Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/48825-factory-manuals-some/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-1208329 Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Search the forums. Useful Links: https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness http://zhome.com/ https://www.zcar.com/ http://www.classiczc...com/index.html/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html

Bawfuls Toyota booster swap should be considered for a sticky.

Typical failure point for stock stub axles. My stock axle snapped in the same location at 5 mph while pulling into traffic. So I replaced both axles with the 4340 axles torqued to 180 ft-lb. OK so far. Testing is the only way to know why the axle failed. One option would be to pull the other axle and have it X-Rayed. For the axle that failed, you could have it X-Rayed and lab tested for tensile strength, hardness and chemical composition. Joseph Siam would probably welcome test data to improve his product. Something he should be doing anyway. Attached picture shows typical stub axle failure.

jhm Reset gap to 0.045. Worked perfectly. Thanks

I'll reset the gap. Thanks

1972 240Z New Goodwrench crate SBC 350 Holley Carb Hooker block hugger exhaust headers Build date: 2009 Approximately 6,000 miles on build Holley carb, MSD HEI distributor and timing not touched since dyno tune 2009 Car ran fine for nine years , but developed a recent exhaust header leak. Replaced header and flange gaskets and, while I was at it, also replaced the plugs - Accel shorty Plugs gapped at 0.035 At start up, the exhaust makes popping sounds at idle after five minute warm up. No popping when cold. Gets worse the longer the engine idles. Popping gets louder with warm up and is punctuated by a very loud POW at random times. No other changes were made. Checked: Plug wires not mixed up. No arcing around plugs or wires Plug wires tight on plugs and distributor cap Re-tightened header and flange bolts.

Edit: Perhaps he didn't lengthen the push rod as required for the 280ZX MC swap which would act like a missing reaction disk. He should check that the measurement first and if that doesn't fix the problem go looking for the reaction disk. When I lost my reaction disk I made a new one from a rubber stopper and used JB Weld to fix it to the push rod base permanently. Push rod length per the picture below is 0.53 inch or 13.462 mm from the flange. Note: you do not have to remove the brake pipes to adjust the push rod. Just pull the MC back and push it aside. Push rod adjustment

Yep reaction disk. Typically falls out while adjusting the push rod length to work with the 280zx master cylinder.

Use a strong adhesive.

This one?

No picture. Pick up a copy of: How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. Details how to disassemble, repair and reassemble the 240Z with detailed pictures not available in the FSM. I used this book in restoring my 72 240Z. It saved hours of researching. Can you post a picture of which seal you mean? I can look at my Z or look it up.

Again, what happens when the lock button is pulled up? Does the button stay up in the unlocked position? There is a small torsion spring that keeps the lock button up. If that spring fails the door will always be locked. https://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/108890-door-lock-knob-not-staying-up.html

Lift the door lock button up. When you let go of the button does it just drop down and lock the door when you release it?

Google searched "vq35de 280zx" See: Z-Fever VQ35DE swapped 280ZX post below Includes videos! Z-Fever has a website which includes tech write ups on VQ35 swaps: www.zfever.com Looks complex and expensive. SBC or LS engine swaps into 280Zx cars have been done and install kits are available.

Search this site for "vq35de". Lots of data!

Keep searching and form a plan. Members will be more likely to help once you can lay out a plan.

It has been done. Search HybridZ for member projects.