Miles

Can't recommend a front brake system without knowing the details for the rear brakes you have. Need to know what rotor size and calipers are on the car now. Yes, the information on the link for the Toyota swap is correct, but I do not recommend the Wilwood MC as I had three of them fail - two of which leaked internally right out of the box. My set up is: Front - Toyota calipers, solid rotors and Carbotech AX6 pads. Unless you are racing you do not need vented front calipers. Rear - 240SX calipers, 300zx rotors (non turbo) and Carbotech AX6 pads. Booster - 9 inch 280z Master cylinder - 15/16 280ZX purchased from Arizona Z Car. Tried the Wilwood 1 inch MC three times but they all failed. SS flex lines Brake bias calculations: Front - 60% Rear - 40% Toyota calipers clear my 15in Ansen slotted wheels. I have had this setup for 12 years and it works well for street driving. The only thing I don't like is that the pedal travel is a bit long. The Carbotech AX6 pads have the best cold bite of any pad I have ever used and the bite gets better when the pads heat up. These pads never fade. I have heated them up to smoking hot and there was no fade.

I have done two 240z restorations (2001 and 2009) and was able to use the Precision kit for everything, but the doors, windshield and outer hatch seals. My windshield and hatch seals are OEM and they fit perfectly. Re: Vintage Rubber. It was my understanding that they were making their own rubber seals from scratch. All you can do is call them and ask if they are just selling the Precision seals or making new seals. https://vintagerubber.com/datsun-nissan/240-z/?sort=featured&page=1 Also, for current restoration information, try researching the Precision kit at the Classic z Car Club: https://www.classiczcars.com/ Lastly, I recommend this book for anyone restoring/working on a 240z/260z/280z: "How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car" by Wick Humble. Available at Amazon. Hint: For the windshield and hatch seals, install the stainless steel trim in the seal before installing it in the car. And the rope trick works perfect. If I were doing this today, my first choice would be OEM seals and maybe Vintage Rubber after a complete review of their products. For certain the Precision windshield and hatch seals were deformed in the corners and impossible to use.

I wasted a lot of money on Precision seals. Could never get the door, windshield and hatch seals to work. Used OEM windshield and hatch seals and they fit perfectly. For the door seals I used Pep Boys generic seals - cheap and they have worked for 12 years..

My R200 mustache bar in a 240z:

"In the ignition switch, there's your standard contacts for the accessory power, ignition power, and starter relay, but there's also a pin that heads to the coil via the tach. This wire is also joined to the ignition pin through a resistor. Am I interpreting this correctly when I conclude that since I'll be using coil-on-plug and an aftermarket tach that I can omit this wire? " Do you mean the green - white wire? On cars with point type distributor, this wire is attached to the (+) side of the coil and was intended to provide a full 12 volts to the distributor during cranking. If you are using an HEI distributor or some other ignition you can use this wire to run the electric fuel pump while cranking. The ignition switch energizes this wire wire just before engaging the starter which makes it handy for filling the bowels on carburetor equipped cars before cranking the engine. Or do you mean the Black - White wire with protective sleeve? This wire provides power to the distributor or HEI dist. or other ignition system Here is how I wired my SBC 350 with an HEI distributor: GRN - WHT Attach to fuel pump side of oil pressure safety switch so fuel pump will operate during starter operation YLW - BLK Oil pressure gauge BLK-WHT without protective sleeve TACH terminal on HEI distributor. Used only with 280Z tach BLK-WHT with protective sleeve BAT terminal on HEI distributor. This is the wire that provides power to the HEI distributor or other ignition system. YLW-WHT Water temp gauge WHT - RED (thick) Alternator terminal. Use 14 ga. Fusible Link. 280Z BLUE WIRE Not used WHT Positive terminal on starter BLK - YLW Starter S terminal

Try an auto paint store in your area. SEM works well.

I used SEM Landau black for my interior restoration. Looks stock (see picture). Use the SEM recommended cleaner before painting. Summit, O'reilly's, auto paint stores sell it. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smm-15013 https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/color-coat/paint---body-repair/paint/paint---vinyl--leather---fabric/9c208df7652f/sem-products-color-coat-12-ounce-landau-black-flexible-paint-coating/sem2/15013?pos=12

If your Z will be a daily driver, then a 3.54 differential works well.

I made mine out of a black rubber stopper that matched the diameter of the push rod. As I recall it was about 5/16in. to 3/8in. thick. Be sure to glue the disk onto the push rod to prevent loosing it again.

Useful information: Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30.html Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers. Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness http://zhome.com/ https://www.zcar.com/ https://www.classiczcars.com/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.xenonzcar.com/reference.html

"Do we have a step by step checklist, for what ought to be done? And to reiterate, this isn’t a plea for advice on upgrades. I just want this car to brake and handle like it would have done, 25+ years ago." These cars are pushing 50 years old. In the interest of your safety and public safety rebuild the brake system. Here is the list of parts to replace. Booster Booster vacuum hose and check valve Master cylinder. Lear how to bench bleed it. Learn how to adjust the booster push rod length. Too long and the brakes will lock up. Too short and the pedal travel will be excessive. All rubber brake lines replaced with SS flex lines. Front: calipers, pads, rotors and wheel bearings Rear: drums, wheel cylinders, shoes, springs, retainers. Learn how to adjust the brakes. Pads and shoes: Carbotech AX6 https://ctbrakes.com/brake-compounds2.asp Carbotech AX6 pads have excellent cold bite which is what you want for a daily driver. Call Carbotech to get a quote for pads and shoes. You may have to send them the old shoes as cores.

You can still order parts from JTR by phone. Facebook contact: https://www.facebook.com/JTRstealth/

Just got an email from Greg Knell. JTR is having technical problems with their website and hope to have it back online soon.

Tried searching JTR and the web site is gone.

Virus?

Dan: I just now clicked on your username and immediately got the 500 message.

Thank you Dan for fixing the "500 internal server error". It would appear every time I clicked on the Hybridz link on my phone or on my desktop PC.

Test done with PCV valve disconnected and hose plugged. Also, replaced PCV valve. Thanks

SBC 350 crate engine with mild cam, Holley Street Avenger carburetor (575 cfm), MSD Street Fire HEI distributor and wires, mild cam, new plugs gapped at .45. No vacuum leaks found. Engine installed in a 72 240z in 2009. Engine ran perfect for over ten years, but started surging at low speed cruise recently. Blocked all vacuum ports and connected vac. gauge to manifold vacuum on carburetor. Reading taken at warm idle. In the video the engine can be heard speeding up and slowing down (surging) as needle moves on the vac. gauge. Other: adjusting idle screws has no effect. Replaced needle valve/seat. Float level adjusted per specs. Went up two sizes on primary jets, but no change. Power valve OK. No vacuum leaks.

See picture. Red circles indicate components that could contribute to the problem you are experiencing. Note that these cars are about 50 years old and we can expect that the suspension bushings, springs and shocks will need to be replaced. Check that the mounting holes in the differential carrier bar (mustache bar) have not been hogged out. Check the torque on all mounting bolts/nuts. Suggest that you replace all of the old rubber bushings with polyurethane bushings on both the front and rear suspension. Also, replace the rubber front differential mount with a solid mount. And no, the solid mount does not cause a lot of road noise. There are several options for a solid front differential mount. Search Hybridz for details on the Ron Tyler mount and the the solid mount sold by Motorsports Auto (MSA). The Ron Taylor mount is designed for racing and high horsepower applications. The MSA mount is more suited for stock daily driver. I have used the the solid MSA mount on two SBC V8 240z projects (built 2001 and 2009) and have had no problems.

I bought the Modern Motor Sports 240SX rear disk conversion about 15 years ago. I didn't like the placement of the brake lines or the how the parking brake cable attached to the caliper. Relocated the brake lines and converted them to -3 AN lines using metric to AN adaptors Made one long hard line to go from the T connector to the driver side. Cut the hard line mounting tabs off. Made a hybrid parking cable bracket by cutting off the 240SX cable attachment and welding the 240z cable attachment in its' place. See pictures

I'll go to Tognotti's in Sacramento and pay about $50 more than Summit.

I buy a lot of parts from Summit Racing. For the first time they will not ship a Holley Street Avenger 80570 carburetor due to California rules. California Air Resources Board won't allow the carburetor to be shipped. I can get the carb locally, but it costs about $50 dollars more.

But the coils are collapsed and touching with the car just sitting! Can't imagine that they offer any resistance at all when the car is moving dynamically over dips and bumps or when cornering.

As I expected the top (soft) section of progressive springs collapse as soon as the car is on the ground. The collapsed section of the springs is doing nothing. This is why I rejected those springs on my first V8 240Z built 20 years ago. I used non-progressive springs rated at 180 lb/in front and 280 lb/in rear. My car is at stock ride height and is a very comfortable daily driver. MSA should be ashamed to still be selling those progressive springs. You can find springs for you car, but it will take some homework on your part. Note: stiffer springs can be shorter than stock springs because the stiffer springs don't compress as much when the car is on the ground. I can install my springs without a spring compressor because they are shorter, but stiffer than stock. Arizona Z Cars used to sell "heavy duty" springs for 240Z/280Z cars, but no longer sells them. You could call Dave and see if he could give the specs or lead you to a vendor.