Miles

After reading your other posts, and your replies to attempts to help you, I have come to the conclusion that you are playing games.

How can anyone help you when you don't know the names of the components you are testing or proper testing procedures? By reading the FSM you will have the correct terminology to more clearly explain your problem which is more likely to elicit helpful responses. You will also become a better mechanic. The FSM may even have the exact solution to your problem!

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109702-hybridz-is-not-automotive-101/

Just install an Earls 5/16" to -6 AN compression fitting on the original outlet tube. This fitting allows interfacing a -6 AN line with tubing. I used these to go from the tank to the fuel pump, from the fuel pump to the original hard line going to the engine bay and from the hard line near the inner fender to a -6 AN line to the carb. http://pitstopusa.com/b-4636-133905-earls-performance-products.html

What about the gap between the hood and the cowl? Will the gap still be there?

Some Eibach problems came up from other Z sites when I Google "eibach 6305.001"

Your car is a 240Z or 260Z? I recalled seeing a post on classiczcars.com Hope this helps: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/38373-240z-eibach-springs-in-260z/

From your original post: The 4 piston caliper: The Toyota 4 wheel drive pickup trucks from about 79-85 will bolt directly onto the Z strut and will work just fine with the stock non vented rotor. This upgrade will require the minor step of trimming the backing plate to make room for the new larger caliper. It is also recommended that the larger 79-81 280ZX master cylinder be used, since the 4 piston calipers displace quite a bit more fluid. Although the master cylinder isn't absolutely necessary, the pedal throw is a bit long without it. Fits most 14" rims.

Why do you need a 15/16 MBC? If you have stock brakes the 15/16 MBC will increase the brake pedal force required to stop the car. That is, your car will not stop well. Recommend that you research the 15/16 MBC swap and the brake line issue before doing anything. There has been a lot written about this subject in the brake section.

Useful links to bookmark: http://zhome.com/ http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html http://www.classiczcars.com/index http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.blackdragonauto.com/zZxCatalog.htm http://www.arizonazcar.com/

Suggestions: If doing a V8 swap buy the JTR book and read it at least 5 times. Buy a FSM and Haynes repair manuals for your specific car. Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Buy the book How to Restore Your Dasun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching. Focus on searching Hybridz for at least 40 hours as 99% of your questions have already been addressed. Make a detailed plan with parts list including cost. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join Classic Z Cars website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions as apposed to the I am too lazy to read/study questions. Have some money. I stopped counting after $12k. Read all of the new member FAQs. Read, study, plan, execute the plan.

done

Please state what engine, clutch and trans setup you have.

Hybridz may not have the exact answer you need. Try this: copy and paste into Google search: site: classiczcars.com s130 spring swaps or site: classiczcars.com 280zx spring swaps etc Google s130 spring swaps etc use above search format to search other Nissan and other Z car websites. There are many.

I have the 1 inch Wilwood MC with Toyota solid calipers on the front and 240sx calipers on the the rear with all adjustments, including the push rod, verified and no air in the lines. I have a long slightly squishy pedal which becomes firm after about one inch of travel. Many other people have made this same complaint. The long pedal is a pain, so I researched the 240SX caliper design. The 240SX caliper has a low drag design (look it up) which means that the seals are designed to pull the piston away from the rotor which means that moving the piston takes a bit more fluid volume to bring the pads in contact with the rotor. I verified this by looking at 240SX master cylinders and sure enough they are of the "fast fill" step bore design as indicated by the bulge on the side. The"fast fill" MC provides an initial additional volume of fluid to push the piston out of the caliper to reduce time for the pads make contact with the rotor. I now believe that this may explain why there are many complaints about a long pedal or squishy pedal by people who have done the 240SX rear caliper swap. I have been researching the pros and cons of installing a 2psi residual pressure valve on the rear brake line coming out of the MC to offset the lag time (volume) required to bring the piston out of the bore. Some hot rod blogs make this recommendation to fix the long pedal issue common to drum to caliper swaps: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/low-drag-caliper-replacement-110823.html I am still researching the viability of installing the 2psi residual pressure valves. Note: The first two Wilwood MCs I bought both leaked internally out of the box. So far the third MC has held up for three years.

I got the self locking ZX nut from my local Nissan dealer.

The book contains detailed instructions on how to make the 280Z tach work. Most people will be unwilling to type a page of instructions from the JTR book. Done

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/OrderingBooks.html

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/13726-hood-alignment-primer/

I just noticed that your latching plate is mounted the reverse of mine. My latch is on the top of the bracket that is bolted to the fire wall. Look at my picture of the latch. The way you have the latch mounted on the bracket shouldn't effect alignment, but it could allow the peg on the hood to strike the distributor cap when closing the hood. The legnth of the peg is adjustable.

The question is: is the problem caused by hinge alignment or the latching mechanism? If you remove the latch from the hood so you can close the hood, would the hood line up with the fenders and fire wall? What do the gaps between the hood and the fenders look like ? What does the gap between the hood and the fire wall look like? Note there are some excellent threads on classiczcars.com web site that explain how to install and fine tune the hood alignment. There is a tutorial thread there by a member named escanlon that explains hood alignment. Paste this into Google: site: classiczcars.com "escanlon hood" etc etc

See atch hood latch pictures.

Need to show us photos of the hinges.

Chapter 10-1 7th edition of the JTR Datsun V8 conversion manual explains, in detail, how to do the required modifications and calibration to make the stock tach work with a V8. The manual costs around $30. Well worth the investment.