Miles

The larger MC will actually require more pedal force than a smaller MC. The reason for using a larger diameter MC is when larger volume calipers are used such as the Toyota 4x4 vented calipers. If you are keeping the stock front calipers and going to 280ZX calipers on the rear then the stock 7/8 dia. MC should work. Only go to a 15/16 in. or 1 in.MC if the pedal throw is too long. The smaller 7/8 in. MC provides more hydraulic "leverage" then the larger MC such that it will take less pedal force to stop. Better advice: keep the stock brakes. The 280ZX rear disk install is not a performnce upgrade. Do more research in the brake and the FAQ sections before you waste a lot of time and money. Just rebuild and maintain the stock brakes and use good pads such as Hawk Blues etc. You may want to bone up on basic brake hydraulics before modifying your brake system as the changes tend to have a domino effect that can make brake performance worse. And no, a proportioning valve will not solve anything with this particular modification.

My first set of 240SX rear calipers leaked around the seals after only two years. I replaced them, but I have had a run of bad luck with remanufactured 240SX rear calipers. I had to replace two Napa remanufactured calipers that leaked right out of the box. I have also had a new remanufactured Cardone 240SX rear caliper piston freeze the first time I pumped the brakes. Now when I buy 240SX calipers I check the piston retraction at the counter before accepting them. Just spin the piston in and out with the retraction tool to make sure there is no binding. I did some research on some of the 240SX and Nissan club sites and found that 240SX rear calipers have a history of the piston not retracting even when new.

Palmer765s: Always include the make and model of the car you are discussing. Also, include type of fuel and ignition system. The car sat for six years. What is the most likely cause of the symptoms you are seeing? Go back to the very first post in this thread. The answer is there. You just have to think about it logically.

3.36? How will your car be used? Drag? Daily driver?

Go here: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.htmlhttp://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html

Look : http://www.arizonazcar.com/springs.html Call Dave and see if he is still selling the spring set for 240/260/280 Zs. I used them on two V8 builds. Good for daily driver. No complaints in ten years.

What is make and model of the MC? What is your brake set up (Disk-drum or disk-disk) as it makes a difference if the check valve (spring and rubber stopper) is used. Drum brakes require the check valve, but disk brakes do not. The cone shaped part is the flange seat for the brake pipe. There should be a threaded coller as well. Look at a FSM for your car. It should show the MC parts assembly and torque specs for the coller.

Been discussed many times. Do not put a proportioning valve on your front brakes. That would be bad. You want the front brakes to lock first. There are many many posts dealing with the 240SX - Toyota 4x4 brake combination and complaints of it being unbalanced such that the rears do not keep up with the Toyota front calipers. A proportioning valve will not help the rears work better. Just spend more time in the brake section and you will see. I had the 240SX - Toyota setup for three years and, after experimenting with pad combinations, I replaced the Toyota calipers with stock calipers. For a daily driver my 240Z w/SBC stops just fine. You will not need a proportioning valve for the rear. Just keep the front brakes stock and use some good street pads such as Hawk blues. Opinion: return the MM 240SX kit and maintain your stock drums. And BTW the 240SX calipers have there own set of problems (new out of the box leaking or sticking pistons - Napa & Cardone). You will receive other opinions. Do more research before you cut off your drums.

Use vise grips to hold the push rod. Make small changes and test drive the car. Carry a wrench that fits the MC bleeders to relieve pressure if the brakes start to drag/lock up. In that case just open the bleeder amd readjust the push rod. If pressure has built up fluid will flow out of the bleed screw. You can do the adjustment without removing the MC. Remove the MC nuts and move the MC out and away from the booster. You will know if the push rod is out too far if when pushing the MC onto the booster it springs back. Make small adjustments until the push rod just clears the piston cup inside the MC. Be careful not to drop the reaction disk inside the booster. Do a search for "reaction disk" to see why.

Buy a copy of How to Restore yourDatsun Z - Car by Wick Humble. As mentioned above download a copy of the Factory Service Manual (FSM). Buy a Haines manual for the make and model of your Z. Parts: Motor Sports Auto (MSA) http://www.zcarparts.com/ Black Dragon http://www.blackdrag.../zZxCatalog.htm

Join this Z club. Good source for stock trouble shooting. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/forum.php

“As you proceed through life, following your own path, birds will shit on you. Don't bother to brush it off. Getting a comedic view of your situation gives you spiritual distance. Having a sense of humor saves you.†― Joseph Campbell

During my build project three years ago I recall seeing posts at Zcar by a Tony D. Good to know that there are reliable sources at the other Z sites.

Tony Are you the same Tony D that posts on Zcar.com?

My point is: are new members meant to read this thread and learn from it or is this just a thread for administrators to vent?

Tony I am not sure that all members will read this thread before they start posting. In the interest of clear communication, this thread, or an edited version of it, could be pinned at the top of each forum.

Test: with the car on jackstands, jack up the control arm and observe the caliper and brake line as the control arm moves up. Check both sides. It is always a good practice to check out the dynamics of how things work when modifying brakes/suspension. I am using the MM 240SX rear brake kit and I had to remove the hardline brackets which required longer SS flex lines.

Mike Tony Administrators Founders If, after 15 years, you are still disappointed with the types of people who join the site, change the rules to what you think is neccessary to select people who are a good fit for your vision of the site. Just honestly state on the website marqee and in the rules what the criteria is for membership: professional/experienced car builders, automotive techs, mechanics, engineers etc. Discourage all others not to apply for membership.

Here is another list of Differentials: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html

Covered in detail in the Brake FAQ.

Congrats. You're in the club now. While you are at it, inspect/clean up all of the light sockets and grounds.

Your 280ZX has an R200 differential. It is the differential most people use for a V8 conversion. The R200 will handle 300hp just fine. Spend some time reading in the Drivetrain Section. All of the answers are there.

240Z SBC 350 300hp daily driver. Kevlar disk. No problems in three years.

Did you write 260Z? End

Buy this manual if you are going to own a hybrid Z: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html The JTR manual has a section on transmissions commonly used in 240Z V8 conversions. The JTR manual will answer many of your questions. You will have to install a stock 240Z clutch pedal assembly. Go to the Driveline forum and spend at least two weeks researching transmissions, clutches, master cylinders, slave cylinders etc. This will help you make an informed decision and to ask the right questions later. I have T5 WC transmisions in both of my 240Z V8 projects for over ten years and never had a problem. Transmission choice ultimately depends on how you will use the car. You could save some work and swap the 350 turbo for a 700R4 automatic as well since you are already set up for an automatic.