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Miles

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Everything posted by Miles

  1. Miles
    Try this throttle set up. Very smooth and trouble free.
  2. Miles
    The first thing you should do is buy the JTR book and read it several times. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html The second thing you should do is spend at least a month reading the section on SBC V8 swaps. The third thing you should do is make a plan with a spread sheet identifying all of the parts and costs that make up your plan. The JTR book assumes that the reader has basic auto mechanical/electrical skills. These are 40 year old cars so expect that there will be problems other than the just the engine swap along the way. If you are new to engine swaps you may want to just keep the car stock for now and make it a reliable daily driver.
  3. Miles
    There is one position that the rollers will interface the rails. Just keep adjusting the position of the rollers with the hand crank until everything matches up. Once you see that it is easy. Also, do a search here and at Classic Z Car as I recall threads that advise how to do this.
  4. Miles
    Did you even search? There must be over a hundred threads on carpets. Such as this one: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/98194-pictures-of-different-carpet-kits/?hl=carpet Spend a few hours looking at old threads. You can also do a search at Classic Z Car
  5. Miles
    See picture for side by side view of R180 and R200. For more information do a Google search: site: hybridz.org R200 or R180 etc. etc. etc. You should get a ton of hits. Or do a Google image search for Datsun R200 etc. etc.
  6. Miles

    Gauge Sizes?

    Miles replied to RyuZ32's topic in Nissan L6 Forum

    Go here: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/autometer.htm Tells how to install 2 5/8" Autometer gauges in a 240Z. Many how-to threads on HybridZ and Classiczcar too.
  7. Miles

    Gauge Sizes?

    Miles replied to RyuZ32's topic in Nissan L6 Forum

    do a google search: site: hybridz.org gauge size or gauge install etc
  8. Miles
    His name is Dave and he is also a HybridZ member as well: HLS30-08077 Typically, the turn signal switch just needs cleaning and adjustment of the copper contacts inside. Do a search as it has been discussed many times and there are several "how to repair" the turn signal switch threads. If the HybridZ search doesn't return any hits do a Google search in this format: site: hybridz.org turn signals You should also search at Classic Z Car
  9. Miles
    I tried Porterfield RS4 pads on my 240Z (Toyota vented front, 240SX rear brakes). Even though they are street pad, they didn't have enough cold bite for street use. Even after making a number of "warming stops" they still didn't do well on the street. By the way, I could never get the Toyota S12W vented and 240SX rear brake setup balanced. The rear 240SX calipers (similar to 280ZX) can not keep up with the S12W vented front brakes. It is a known problem discussed many times in the brake forum. Research this before you pull your drums off and change the master cylinder etc. I have since gone back to stock front brakes with the 240SX rear calipers using Hawk HPS pads (Hawk Blues) front and rear. The Hawk HPS pads have good cold bite and I don't have to heat them up. They are a bit more dusty though and they are quiet.
  10. Miles
    Install a Painless electric fuel pump relay kit with the relay inside the car (passenger footwell or toolbox). Unplug and remove the relay when parked.
  11. Miles
    With my 15 in. American Ansen racing wheels I had to install longer wheel studs and use spacers so that the wheels would clear the fins on the S12W caliper. Unless you are racing where heat is a problem the S12-8 solid or stock front brakes are fine. Suggest you do more research in the Brake and FAQ sections as this topic has been discussed extensively.
  12. Miles
    Another possible source of Z parts is Eric Neyerlin at http://www.zparts.com/home.html
  13. Miles
    Typical SBC install.
  14. Miles
    Look here: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SSSC01A02
  15. Miles
    FSM here: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html Buy a Haines manual as well. You are not providing enough information to diagnose the problem. Study the problem, read the Haines and FSM electrical sections. Get a helper and go under the dash and listen for where the clicking is coming from while pressing the brake. Identify the part that clicks. Why would it click when pressing the brake? Is it tied into the brake light circuit? What component(s) does the brake light circuit pass through? etc. etc. This will be a way of life as long as you own an old Z car. end
  16. Miles
    Most of what you want to know can be found in the tech section of http://zhome.com/ List of datsun differential ratios Method for determining ratio of differentail
  17. Miles
    Need to tell us the type of car when you post questions. There are a number of relays under the dash including the turn signal flasher. Just a hunch. Do all of your turn signals and lights work? Look under the dash. Anything clicking there?
  18. Miles
    google image search
  19. Miles
    Good video. Most how-to videos aren't. I keep two or three repaired combo switches around for quick change out when my lights start acting up. Use a white towel as a work surface. The small parts show up easy when dropped on the white towel and they don't go bouncing into the Land of the Lost.
  20. Miles
    Use a small blob of grease to hold the ball bearing and spring in place while re-assembling the switch. In addition to cleaning the contacts, sometimes they will need to be bent slightly to make good contact.
  21. Miles
    The best way to approaoch this is to make a sketch of how the oil pressure switch is wired. Name and color code each wire. If you are going to use a fuel pump relay add that to your sketch. Use a Painless Fuel Pump Relay kit. Have you tested the Black-Blue and Green-White wires with a volt meter? As you turn the ignition switch how does each wire behave? Fuel Pump Relay: run the output of the oil pressure switch to the trigger wire of a Painless Fuel Pump Relay. The painless kit comes with long wires so you can run the trigger wire to the oil pressure switch. Look at a schematic for a 260Z as there may be an unused Green wire Datsun installed to run an electric fuel pump. The Green wire is taped up near the fuel level sensor. Inside, you can find it behind the passenger side kick panel. It continues to some point near the fuse box. If it is there you can connect it to the output side of the Painless relay and to your electric fuel pump.
  22. Miles
    Have you not read the Brake FAQ?
  23. Miles
    Per JTR pg 13-2: "If you are using the HEI distributor, the easiest way to wire the fuel pump for cranking conditions is to connect the Green-White (240Z) or black-blue (260Z/280z) wire to the fuel pump wiring." Both of my 72 240Z SBC cars are wired as stated above, without relays, and the fuel pump turns on just before the start position on the ignition switch and the fuel pump runs during cranking. The pump turns on just before the switch reaches the start position. On cold mornings, or after the car sitting a for a long spell, I use this feature to fill the carb bowels before cranking the engine. The exception for b18crx, is that per JTR instead of using the Green-White (240Z) wire you use the Black-Blue wire (260Z/280Z). To b18crx, I suggest that you look over pg.13-2 in the JTR manual again and hook up a volt meter to the Black-Blue wire to verify that it energizes when the ignition switch is turned to start. If JTR is correct, you should see the Black-Blue wire energize just before the key is turned to the start position and stay energized while cranking. Again, b18crx, you should verify, using a volt meter, the function of each wire as stated in the JTR manual as you turn the ignition switch through each position. Trust, but verify. Good Luck
  24. Miles
    Also see : http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105051-jtr-wiring-questions/?hl=pressure+switch&do=findComment&comment=982976
  25. Miles
    My seventh edition of the JTR manual is confusing on some of the fuel pump wiring and has been discussed in the V8 forum. My experience is with a 240Z so verify the following: Green-White: This wire is energized as the ignition key is turned toward the "start" position. Its' pupose is to provide power to the fuel pump while cranking. I also find it handy to prime the carb if the car has been sitting for awhile. It taps into the wire that connects to the fuel pump + side of the switch. This should be wire No. 1 on the JTR diagram. Black-White without protective sleeve: Tach terminal of HEI dist.(280Z tach) OR neg terminal on a coil. Black-White with protective sleeve: Bat terminal on HEI dist. Positive termanal on points type distributor. This is your "ignition" wire. You tap off of this wire to the pressure switch. Black-Yellow: Starter "S" terminal. The wiring diagram in the JTR book shows this wire connected to the oil pressure switch. Do not connect this wire to the oil pressure switch. This is confusing because the JTR book says in section 13-2 not to connect this wire to the the wire on the oil pressure switch at runs the fuel pump (see 4th para down pg 13-2 under Fuel Pump Wiring), but shows it connected in their wiring diagram. Connect the Black-Yellow wire to the starter only. The Green-White wire runs the fuel pump while cranking. In summary, there is a power (ignition) wire to the distributor which has a tap to the power side of the pressure switch to run the fuel pump. To make the fuel pump run while cranking, there is the Green-White wire that taps into the fuel pump side of the pressure switch.
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