Miles

Perhaps he is not going race or drive his car hard. Is the car stock? Does he plan on more power or a V8 swap? At face value, the car appears stock at this time. Let's see what his plans are. Chuck, what are your plans for the car? Daily driver? Street performance? Racing? Occaisional track day?

The 280zx MC is NLA. Go to the brake section and read the first post about the Wilwood 1 inch MC as a replacement. The kit from Modern Motorsports is ok, but people are complaining that service is slow. See post "Has anybody heard from Ross lately" in the FAQ section and then decide. I have the MM Toyota front and 240SX set up on my 240Z. It is not all that great. Adding Porterfield R4S pads and a 280Z booster helped, but still not that great. You should spend some time reading in the brake section the pros and cons of various "brake upgrades". You might be better off refreshing your stock brakes and using Porterfield R4S pads and shoes. Several people have told me that stock brakes with a 280Z booster works well. A proportion valve is not needed with the Toyota front and 240SX set up. The 240SX rears can't keep up with the Toyota fronts. It is an unbalanced combination. Most people complain that they have to run the proportion valve wide open to the rear brakes and rears are still not balanced. So the proportion valve is not needed. There are many discussions in the brake section about this problem. Read every post on the Toyota/240SX subject and then decide.

Did you notice the date on this thread? Nobody will hold your hand here. Use the search function. All of the information you seek is available by searching this site.

Remember amperage is current flow. The amp gauge measures current flow. What happens to current flow when you turn on a light or fuel pump? Fuel Pump Slows: Applying the brakes switches on the brake lights causing a voltage sag which reduces available voltage to the fuel pump. So the pump slows down. The voltage goes back up when you let off of the brakes making the pump sound normal. You may benefit by visiting your local hot rod shop and picking up a book on hod rod electrical systems. Hot rod books are helpful because they focus on electrical issues car builders have to deal with getting their projects on the road. Here is a book I found at a local rod shop (American Pastimes). You could order it from: http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/wiring_accessories.html

You can get the headlight relay kit from MSA. It is made by a HybridZ member HLS30-08077 (Dave Erwin). It will brighten your headlights and reduce the load on the headlight switch. Also, the relay harness will allow you to run higher wattage H4 lights etc. MSA link: http://www.thezstore...ZS/PROD/12-4651 For the headlight/turn signal switch, you should buy a couple of combination switches because you will find that that they have to be repaired/cleaned frequently. Research HybridZ and Classic Z Car for "how to repair combination switches". There are several good posts that tell you how to repair the switches. Dave, who designed the headlight relay kit, also provides a combo switch repair service. Search for switch repair here and Classic Z Car. I bought my relay kit from him several years ago. The kit is plug and play so you do not have to chop up your wiring harness. I bought some extra combo switches, repaired them (clean and adjust copper contacts) and use them to trouble shoot light problems and replace failed switches.

You need to include make and model of the car plus any modifications done to the engine and drive train if you want members to respond in a meaningfull way. Without more information it sounds like your clutch is slipping and you have a leaking slave cylinder. The usual fix is to replace the faulty parts if diagnosis so directs.

That is normal. Next time you start the car watch the amp gauge and note which way the needle moves with no loads on the electrical system. With the engine running turn on the headlights etc. and note which way the needle moves.

Good to see things are working out. Be sure to replace the fusible link. It did what it was designed to do. That is, to protect the electrical system from catching fire and/or melting. And it is not just a wire. The fusible link is made from material that melts without burning. Datsun 240Z fusible links are available from MSA, Black Dragon and some autoparts stores.

Newzed is right. You are going to melt your electical system unless you get a schematic and a multi meter and take a more methodical approach. Do a search on HybridZ for electrical schematics. Several members have posted pdf schematics you can download. The pdf files allow you to enlarge the schematic to see the details. I answered your other post after reviewing a schematic in a 240Z Haynes manual for the white and red wires you were asking about. It only took a minute with a schematic. I suggest that you get an electrical schematic and go through it and identify every wire in your car as for color and function. Make a list and number tag each wire per your list. Doing this will enable you to know your electrical system and how it functions. Also, make a wire list and tag the wires any time you remove electrical components. Take detailed pictures before removing or modifying the electrical system. You will thank yourself later when you have to assemble something six months from now and/or you have to trouble shoot your electrical system when your Z breaks down.

Take some pictures of what you find.

The white/red wire is a power wire. You will find it in several locations in the car. My schematic shows a white with red stripe wire going to the combo switch, hazard switch, ignition switch, fuse block to ammeter, fuse block to alternator. Is the white/red wire long enough to reach the ignition or combo switches? Note as I recall all of the wires going to the ignition and combo switches use push-in connectors and not ring connectors. Do you see a white/red wire connected to the ignition switch or combo switch? If not then you would not be getting power to those switches. The white/red wire in the picture appears short. Is the white/red wire long enough to reach the ammeter? The white/red wire connected to the ammeter uses a ring connector as I recall. Note that the Datsun is wired such that the power goes through the ammeter (long story look it up). Attach some pictures of the ignition switch and combo switch wiring. Try to get a Haynes 240Z manual as it has the electrical schematics. Also, search hybridZ for 240Z schematics. Members have attached pdf copies in many posts. The pdf copies are easier to use as you can blow them to better see the details.

The previous owner (PO) made a mess of the fan and, possibly, the fuel pump wiring. The wiring on my first 240Z V8 project car was so messed up by the PO that I had to completely redo the engine bay and fuel pump wiring. There was no other choice but to gut the getto wiring and start over. Recommendations: 1. Buy the Jags That Run book "Datsun Z V8 Conversion Manual" here: http://www.jagsthatr...tsun_Z_V-8.html The manual explains how to do a 240Z V8 conversion. Among many conversion topics, the JTR manual explains how to safely wire the fuel pump through an oil pressure fuel pump safety switch. Run the output from the oil pressure safety switch to the trigger contact on a Painless Fuel Pump relay kit. The kit comes with correctly sized wires and instructions. Note that the 240Z has an unused fuel pump wire (green) that you can attach the relay output to. Search HybridZ for the green fuel pump wire. Read the JTR manual at least five times. It covers about 90% of what you need to know to own a V8 Z car. Do not run your fuel pump through a switch without using an oil pressure fuel cut-off switch. Without the fuel cut-off switch imagine yourself pinned in the car and the fuel pump is still running and dumping fuel on the ground. 2. Obtain electrical schematics for your Z car such as a Haynes Manual, Factory Service manual on-line download etc. Search HybridZ and/or Google for schematics. 3. If electrical wiring is not your strong point, have someone with automotive electrical experience check out the car's wiring. You want a reliable and safe car when you are done. 4. Be sure that the fan and fuel pump are on separate fused circuits. 5. Electric fans draw high amps. Do you have the best fan and radiator combination for your application? Again, see the JTR manual. I use the JTR radiator and Flex-a Lite FXL-180 fan (built-in thermostat control) Attached is a picture of an oil pressure fuel cut-off switch. Does your car have one?

rsicard is offering good advice. Build a solid foundation before doing the engine swap. I left the L6 in the car and started with suspension and brakes which allowed me to shake out the bugs before doing the engine swap. This was followed by an R200 differential swap and radiator upgrade in preparation for the final SBC and Camaro T5 trans installation.

This has been discussed many times. Do a search for more info. I have used the MSA mounts on two 240Z V8 builds. They are not built for high HP or racing. They are fine for a daily driver. Do a member search for me (miles) and you will find my old posts dealing with JTR vs MSA and how to install the MSA mounts. I prefer the MSA mount only because the trans mount allows a lot of flexibility in adjusting the driveline angle. Most people here use the JTR mounts so search for JTR mounts Research Hybrid Z and then come back with more questions. All the anwers you seek have been covered in the various forums. Be sure to buy the JTR book on how to do a V8 Z project and study Hybrid Z in detail before starting your project.

Tony It is really not that complicated. A nut decided to follow me to a place of business, observe me, and then follow me over a period of thirty minutes. It was just my turn to encounter a nut case on the road. Anyway, thanks Psych 101.

I still have the Eagle wheels.

What do you mean?

When a woman backed into my 240Z at a stop light she bent the bumper and damaged the right front fender. The damage was very minor, but my insurance company wanted total my Z. When I explained that I had sunk a lot of money into restoring the car they backed off instantly. They told me that because it was a restoration that they would have the damage fixed.

I just got back from filling a CHP report. Since the guy didn't try to hide his behvior I can only conclude that he was (1) nuts and (2) intensionally trying to intimidate me into an altercation. So my concern is that a nut who is willing to openly stalk me now has my license plate number.

Tony Thanks. I'll follow up with the CHP.

What year? 240Z or 280Z?

I went ahead and filed a police incident report since the guys behavior was purposful and on-going. I'll be listening for the Jaws theme when I take the Z out for a drive from now on.

That's disturbing. I was actually stalked today.

I saw someone writing down my license plate number. I live in California. How hard is it California to get your personal address if someone has your license number? I know that filling out a Calif. DMV form will release your name only, but how hard is it to also get your address?

Answers here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/forum/80-brakes-wheels-suspension-and-chassis/ Be careful of removing brake system parts if you are not sure what they do.