Miles

I am having the same problem. I get the HybridZ home picture page, but when I clicked on Forums I was redirected to the adonclick.net page. I did a system restore and I am now able to get to the Forums, but the page format is just a long list of links doen the left side.<br /><br />My Norton and Adaware virus scans revealed no virus.<br /><br />Any ideas how to correct the problem?

And your car is a........................

10mm x 1.0 brake double flare hard lines are available from Pep Boys etc. Since you ran the master cylinder dry you will need to fill it and then bleed the air out of it. Just run some clear 1/8 plastic tubing from the bleeders back into the MC tanks. Use something to hold the hoses in the MC tanks so they don't pull out while pumping the brakes to bleed the MC.

See if this helps: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/109702-hybridz-is-not-automotive-101/ There are many lists and posts that have covered your questions in detail. Also, the Jags that Run (JTR) manual on 240Z v8 swaps covers this topic in detail. Read the manual at least five times and invest many hours searching HybridZ.

You can move the MC while it is attached to the hardlines. There is enough flex in the hard lines to pull the MC off of the booster and move it toward the fender so you can acess the push rod for adjustment and/or check if the reaction disk is in place.

It is going to turn into a kluge. Just go back to a 280Z booster and sell the 280ZX booster.

The push rod length must be adjusted. If it is too short you will have a long pedal that grabs near the bottom of its' travel. If the the push rod is too long, it will not allow the piston in the MC to return to the position where fluid can flow back into the MC. This will cause your brakes to lock up after a few stops. Adjusting the pedal inside the car will not help.

Did you do a web search? I got several hits. For example: http://www.carsteering.com/addtocart/1972_Nissan/240Z/Manual_Steering_Rack/80-70090.html Some of the original parts have been NLA for some time so take that into consideration if you order a "rebuilt" steering rack.

Not enough information.

Yes per the original post the fittings from a 71 240Z will not interchange with the Wilwood MC. I corrected my post to show that the 72-78 MC fittings are interchangable as well as fittings from the 79-81 280ZX MC (the fittings I used). Thanks for pointing that out.

You don't need to do that. Remove the outlet port fittings from the Wilwood 1 inch MC and replace them with outlet port fittings from a 72-78 240Z/280Z or a 79-81 280ZX. This will provide the 10mm connection to the hardlines. In my case I removed those fittings from the 1979 280ZX MC that had failed in my 240Z and installed them in the Wilwood MC. Keeps it simple. Also, see post 3 above. Other info: My 280ZX MC had check valves in the front and rear outlet ports. I moved them over to the Wilwood MC outlet ports. My brakes don't drag.

Welcome to the Datsun Electrical club. You are now an expert.

Test the wires that connect to the flasher unit. Check for grounds and voltage. Trace where those wires go and look for damaged or grounded wires.

The JTR manual contains information applicable to any engine swap. Some of the information on safety, engine dress and transmission choices can be applied to your engine swap. Also, research John's Cars engine swap website.

Did the flasher just plug in or did you do some wiring to make it work?

Since you saw smoke near the steering column start by removing the plastic column cover. Study the FSM schematic and start identifying and tracing each wire connected to your T/S switch. Trace the wires out to the turn signals and to the hazard switch. Take voltage readings on the T/S switch where the right side T/S wires connect with the switch set in the right turn mode. You should see 12 volts. I have seen the wires come unsoldered at the T/S switch.

Always include make, model and year of car when asking trouble shooting questions. Do a search and download the electrical schematic for your car. There are several pdf schematics available on this site.

Go to Pap Boys etc and get two 12 inch brake lines and replace the old ones on your pressure differential switch. Just bend them per your old lines. Don't bypass the brake switch. It is a safety device and also serves as distribution block for the front brakes. I have never had a problem with the brake switch. You might want to consider rebuilding your brake system given its age and condition.

I use speed bleeders with teflon thread tape. For the flare nuts that attach to the outlets I just wrap the flare nuts with the teflon tape. Also, make sure that the flares on the old brake pipes you use for the outlets are in good shape or they will suck air. I learned all of this while bench bleeding a new master cylinder that kept producing bubbles. At first I blamed the speed bleeders until I checked the old flare fittings at the outlets. To fix the problem I went to Pep Boys and bought a new 12 inch brake lines with the correct flare and threads and then cut out two four inch pieces using a tubing cutter. I then formed a 90 deg. bend ( to clear the vise/bench) in each tube using a tube bending tool. No more air leaks through the outlets while bench bleeding.

See picture for bench bleeding set up. I open up both bleed nipples and then push the piston in slowly until all of the bubbles are gone. When you remove the fittings in the outlets fluid will leak out so I plug the outlets with small rubber stoppers. Remove the rubber stoppers just as you are hooking up the hard lines to the MC to minimize fluid loss. Also, I hook up the hard lines before I bolt the MC to the booster. Makes it easier to line up the hard line with the MC outlets. The fittings in the outlets are old brake lines. Be sure when you attach the fittings to the MC that they are tight or air will be sucked in as you push and release the piston. Do not clamp the barrel (cylinder) of the MC in the vise as you could deform the cylinder causing it to leak.

First of all you don't mention what type of car it is which would help others solve your problem. I suspect that you overfilled the tank on a warm day, the fuel expanded, and pushed out under the gas cap. On my 240Z if I overfill (top off) on a hot day the fuel will expand and run out past the gas cap. As long as I don't top off the tank there are no leaks.

I have installed the front and rear check valves in the Wilwood 1 inch master cylinder. I haven't noticed any change in pedal stiffness or legnth of travel. The brakes do not drag.

I have installed the front and rear check valves in the Wilwood 1 inch master cylinder. I haven't noticed any change in pedal stiffness or legnth of travel. The brakes do not drag.

I have installed the front and rear check valves in the Wilwood 1 inch master cylinder. I haven't noticed any change in pedal stiffness or legnth of travel. The brakes do not drag.

ok. Software glitch? I'll find another way to contact these members. Thanks