Miles

I forgot to mention that my set up is a carbed SBC V8. So if your car is still stock you may want to reconsider blocking off all of the vent lines. I was going to add a vent to allow air into the tank as Jim mentioned, but haven't had any problems with fuel flow. Enough air leaks in under the gas cap to avoid creating a vaccume most likely.

I closed off all of the nipples on the tank except for the one that is high up on the tank on the passenger side side. I ran some high quality fuel line from that nipple to the filler neck where the vent tank used to connect to the the filler neck. The purpose was to allow air to escape from the highest part of the tank back out the filler neck when fillig the tank. There is an existing hole on the passenger side that you can feed the line from the tank up into the car for connection to the vent tank.

Do you mean that you have a 79 280Zx brake master cylinder? Sunny is right. the Toyota front stock rear is unbalanced such that the rear brakes aren't doing much. You can try to get your rear brakes working better, but in the end your brakes will be unbalanced. Do not install a proportioning valve unless your rear brakes are locking up before the fronts. It is a waste of time and money and adds unecessary complexity to the brake system. You might be better off putting stock calipers on the front and installing Porterfield R4S pads and shoes. Do not use the Porterfield R4 pads/shoes as they are for racing only

You will definately need to buy the Z Therapy video as it is Datsun specific and provides a complete understanding of how the SU carb works (important) and how to properly tune the carbs . It sounds like your carbs are initially too lean. The mixture screw on the Datsun SU carb is the knurled knob at the very bottom of the carb. Here is a quick and dirty starting point that may help you get the car running. The intial starting point for setting the mixture so the car will run is: 1. Looking top down at the carb turn the mixture knob counter clockwise all the way in (max lean). You can mark the knob with a marker so you can keep track of the turns. 2. Looking down at the carb turn the mixture knob out clockwise (richer) two and a half turns. This is your starting point to get the engine running. 3. Repeat setting the mixture knob on the other carb. Start the engine. Advance the throttle. If the the engine hesitates or back fires through the carb it is too lean. If it is too lean try turning the mixture out (richer) 1/4 turn on each carb. Experiment with the idle screws if you need to increase the idle speed to keep the engine running. You need to buy a 240Z Haynes manual as a minimum as it details the linkages and adjustments on the carbs which you must know in order to tune the carbs. This is also covered in the video. Check the linkages against the Haynes manual/video to make sure that they are installed correctly. There is much more to balancing the carbs and setting idel speeds etc., but this should get the engine running assuming that the floats and linkages are set close to being correct. You will need to buy a Unisyc tool to properly balance the carbs. You can get the Unisyn tool from Motor Sports Auto (MSA), BlackDragon and some auto parts stores. It is better that you set the mixture a little rich than too lean. A too lean condition can burn the valves. After viewing the video, and some practice, you should be able to do the entire carb tuning/balancing in about fiteen minutes.

Go to Z Therapy and buy the Video "Just SUs" it will teach you everything you need to know about tuning SU carbs. http://www.ztherapy.com/ They also sell quality rebuild kits and rebuilt SU carbs.

"However it looks like there's a contact that glides around the hub surface." Recheck the contact. You may need to tweek it slightly for it to make consistant contact. Just make small changes until it works.

Did the 280Z come with factory cruise control? May be an after market cruise control. See this: http://www.classiczc...ontrol-for-280Z If it is a cruise control component then there would also be defeat switches on the clutch and brake pedal. Any switches on or near your clutch/brake pedals? Any other hoses or wires connected to the unit such as vacuum lines etc? Look here: http://www.amazon.com/Audiovox-CCS100-Universal-Vacuum-Control/dp/B00029WQTW

Don't waste your time fixing the sellers problems. Instead buy a clean 240Z that runs, has not had the wiring chopped up, is not a rust bucket and has not received a bunch of il-fitting parts forming a disgusting whole. You will thank yourself later.

I have purchased weather seal kits etc. from Motor Sports Auto and Black Dragon. As I recall they both sell kits and individual seals made by Precision Replacement Parts Corp. I have used the Precision kits on two 240Z projects and the only problem I had was with the hatch glass seal. The corners of the hatch seal were not molded correctly leaving the corner of the glass exposed and unsealed. I ended up buying an OEM hatch seal from Courtesy Nissan which fit perfectly. Most likely, the places that sell after market 240Z weather seals get them from Precision Replacement Parts Corp. Do a search in the Body and Interior forums for more info on weather seal sources and how to install the windshield.

Did you also check that the push rod between the booster and the master cylinder is the correct length? Since you are using a non-stock master cylinder the push rod may need to be adjusted out longer.

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder? Here is another master cylinder you could use as a replacement. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/102754-a-one-inch-diameter-brake-master-cylinder-for-the-s30-z-cars/

I cut the ends off of the 240SX E brake bracket and welded 240Z E brake bracket ends onto them. That way the 240Z E brake cables attach to the 240SX brackets like stock. See pictures.

You should do a lot more research in the suspension section noting the pros and cons of the various spring options available. Think in terms of what is appropiate for your application and how much each approach is going to cost. A well thought out plan will save you time and money.

Try Arizona Z Car springs. They are 180 lb/in front and 200lb/in rear and maintain stock ride height. I have used them with Tokiko Blue struts on two 240Z v8 builds and they work well for a street car. They were unavailable at one point so check with Arizona Z here: http://www.arizonazc...om/springs.html

Pads: Porterfield R4S are available for the Toyota calipers. Do not order the R4 pads as they are for racing and require warm up to be effective.

Nice write up on the Toyota caliper swap. Metric non-compatibility of the Wilwood 1 inch master cylinder outlet ports is easy to resolve. Just remove the Wilwood outlet ports and replace them with outlet ports from the Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z/280Zx master cylinder. Now the 10mm Datsun brake line flair nuts will screw into the Wilwood MC. There is a complete write-up on the Wilwood 1 inch MC upgrade in the Brake section that explains the complete swap procedure. It is the first sticky in the Brake section.

Haynes and Chilton both publish 240Z manuals that have wiring schematics. Also, I recall seeing some pdf schematics posted here on HybridZ.

How long did it take to receive the master cylinder after you ordered it? Any idea what remanufacturing company supplied the MC to Pep Boys?

The Jags That Run manual on 240Z engine swaps will help you get started with your project. It covers the mechanical, electrical, brakes, suspension, cooling and emissions requirements. It will save you hours of research. You can buy the manual here: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html

Search. The Wilwood 1 inch MC install is covered in the Brake section.

Details? Year, make and model of car plus pictures of exterior, interior and rough spots would be helpful. If it is not running you will lose money. Based on your post, it looks like a parts car.

Sorry about the part number typo in the thread I listed above. Here is the Earls p/n for the -3 clutch hose: Earls Speed-Flex Line Part #: 63011732ERL

Did the hose shop install a roll pin connector on the hose? That was my first choice, but I couldn't find a shop that could install the rollpin connector.

Go here: post #7: http://forums.hybrid...__1#entry920425 Do a search in the Drivetrain section. Lots of options there. See picture of the McLeod roll-pin adaptor.

If you are going to own a 240Z you might as well buy a couple of T/S Headlight combo switches, learn how to repair them (search), and have them on-the-shelf because this is a common/recurring problem. I have a set of repaired spares handy so I can just swap them out when the T/S stops working. My turn signals have stopped working multiple times over ten years and it has always been the T/S-Headlight combo switch. Usually, the contacts inside the switch need to have the carbon/corrosion cleaned off. Also, the copper contact cradle part of the T/S switch becomes slightly bent from pushing on the T/S lever over time. That copper cradle sometimes just needs to be tweaked slightly to get theT/S lights to work. The headlight switch has similar problems. Also, a member here at HybridZ named Dave provides a T/S Headlight switch repair service. He also sells a headlight relay harness that takes the load off of the headlight switch and provides brighter headlights. Takes about 20 minutes to install and your electrical system will thank you. Motor Sports Auto (MSA) sells Dave's harness or you can order it from him. Do a search as there are some good tutorials on T/S switch repair.