Miles

Always include make and model of the car you are working on. Before you install higher wattage headlights you need to be aware that the headlight circuit in the 240Z is weak. The weakness is mainly in the headlight switch that has to handle the headlight amperage load. Weak headlights and switch meltdowns are common complaints. The fix is to run the headlights though a dedicated set of relays. Your headlights will be brighter and it will take the load off of the headlight switch. The harness is available from Motor Sports Auto (MSA) or through a HybridZ member (Dave) who designed the harness. You can buy the harness here: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4651 You can get the harness and the H4 lights from MSA. Don't install higher amp lights without the relay harness. It is plug and play - no cutting of wires etc. Installs in about 30 minutes or less. Don't buy the relay harness that Black Dragon sells. Search HybridZ for the headlight relay harness. Look in the vendor section also as I recall that Dave posted his Z car electrical upgrades there.

Before you try adjusting valves, check that the mixture is set right and that the choke is working. Do a Google search for SU mixture adjustment (bottom of each carb). You should get a lot of hits. Many of the Z car clubs have published SU carb tuning procedures. They are very simple once you learn how they work. While you are learning about the SU carbs you might as well do a tune up. Buy a Haines 240Z repair manual it tells how to do most of the tune up steps. Spend some time looking at the Z Therapy website.

Go here and buy the video "Just SUs" http://www.ztherapy.com/ It will teach you everything you need to know about tuning and maintaining SU carbs. Check out the 240Z - 280Z tuning video as well. I suspect that some simple tuning and/or maintenance on your carbs will resolve your problems. Possibly it is just a mixture or choke adjustment. See the video for instructions. Before I rebuilt my SUs I used to shoot some starting fluid (Ether) into the air intake on cold mornings. Also, do a Google search on tuning SU carbs.

Check out the 240SX websites. Those guys deal with 240SX rear caliper problems more than we do here. If you decide to buy remanufactured calipers check them out carefully. I had problems with three 240SX rear calipers purchased from Napa. Two leaked around the seals as soon as they were installed and a third caliper had a seized piston right out of the box. I am now using Cardone remanufactured calipers and so far had no problems.

The master cylinder you seek is NLA. Why not get a new 1 inch Wilwood MC? Go here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/102754-a-one-inch-diameter-brake-master-cylinder-for-the-s30-z-cars/

Plan the project in detail. Make a detailed parts list showing cost and source(S) for each part. This will force you to do research, plan and learn how to do the swap. I have done two 1972 240Z V8 240Z projects. The first one was a basic SBC 350, Camaro T5, R200 install that took three months as I bought parts as needed and I rebuilt the brakes and suspension. That was 2002 and that car is stiil on the road. My second 72 240Z 350 SBC T5 build was planned in detail and all parts were purchased before starting the project. The car had been my daily driver for eight years. The engine/trans install was only two days, but the total time was one month because I cleaned up and painted the engine bay after pulling the stock L6. After the engine install I drove the car as a daily driver for two months to shake out the bugs and then tore it apart for paint and interior which took about three months. Most of that time was preparation for paint. The car was planned and built to be driven daily. BTW: just keep your brakes stock. Rebuild them and use good pads such as Hawk HPS and SS braided brake lines. Minimum things to do: repair the brakes, new shocks, stiffer springs, poly suspension bushings Again, buy the JTR book.

Good plan. Try a Google search of HybridZ: Type: site: hybridz.org "hazard switch" A Google search usually gives a number of hits.

You may have mis-aligned some of the contacts in the turn signal and/or light switches when you worked on them. Look at the contacts closely as you move the switches. Make sure that the copper contacts are connecting and disconnecting completely. Be careful bending/adjusting the contacts. It doesn't take much movement of the contact to make them work properly. And, of course, check that you have the switch harnesses plugged in correctly.

My left front fender and grill were damaged when an old lady backed into me at a stop light. When I saw her back-up light come on I knew I was screwed. No where to go. The fender and grill had to be replaced. My insurance company was going to total the car until I told them that I was restoring it. At that point they considered the car as a classic and worth saving.

I filled in about half of the shifter hole in the console with matching black plastic and used a cut down 240Z boot attached with the stock clips on the backside. I also used the stock T5 shifter. Trans tunnel cover seals out fumes. Be aware that brake and fuel lines run on the right inside of the tunnel when drilling or installing screws.

It is working now. Thanks

This topic has become absurd and resembles more of a forum "Chimping Out" than anything else. Go here for example forum Chimp Out: http://njhurst.com/blog/01176515519 The administrators are doing a fine job of filtering out the BS questions. Most people get a clue after their posts go unanswered or sent to the Tool Shed. Some will wise up. Some will self -select out and go to other Z sites more comensurate with their skill level. Time to lock this thread out.

Center the ball? Are you thinking of the brake differential pressure switch? See picture. There could be other reasons besides the proportioning valve that caused the rear brakes to lock.

Welcome. Buy a copy of How to Restore yourDatsun Z - Car by Wick Humble no matter what direction your project is going. Try Amazon, Black Dragon or MSA for source. Download a copy of the Factory Service Manual (FSM). There should be a link in one of the forums. Parts: Motor Sports Auto (MSA) http://www.zcarparts.com/ Black Dragon http://www.blackdrag.../zZxCatalog.htm Many autoparts stores still sell a few Datsun parts, but the two above specialize in Z parts.

That is what I have been doing too. What is causing this?

Check out the brakes: pads, shoes, rear cylinders for leaks, hoses, front calipers, rotors etc.

Also check that the heater water hoses and connections are not leaking. The smell of anti-freeze is a clue that the heater is leaking.

7:25 pm getting blocked. Got in the fourth try. See picture.

The blocking seems to be random. Sometimes I get in on the first try. Other times it takes four or five tries to get in.

When I click on "Forum" I get a meesage with a HybridZ banner that reads: you do not have permission to enter that site. Is this a remaining problem from the recent virus? Anything I need to do?

You are missing something. Recheck all of the wiring to the TS and headlight switches on the steering column. Go look at another 76 280Z and take pictures of the wiring so you can compare it to your car. Try to post some pictures of your wiring harness and connections to the TS and headlight switch. Are you certain that the harnesses are plugged into the correct wires?

Welcome. Buy a copy of How to Restore your Datsun Z - Car by Wick Humble no matter what direction your project is going. Should be available at Motor Sport Auto (MSA), Black Dragon and/or Amazon Also, buy the Datsun Z V8 Conversion Manual from Jags that Run (JTR). Read the manual at least five times before starting your project. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html

Same thing happened to me. I called the dealer that sold me the shock and they sent me the correct gland nut. Two other times I opened a Tokico box only to find the wrong shock.

I have had three problems with Tokico shocks: twice received the wrong gland nuts and another time they packed the wrong shock in the box. When I called them they were always willing to correct the problem. Call Tokico or the dealer you bought the strut from.

Did you search? Topic has been covered many times with pictures and wire lists. For example: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/29786-painless-harness-to-z-column-harness-headlight-combo-switch/