Miles

I have used the MSA kit on two 240Z projects. The door seals would not allow the doors to close and the hatch glass seal was deformed in one corner such that it would just slip off the glass. For the doors I used door seals from Pep Boys (there are better choices such as McMaster-Carr - do a search). For the hatch glass I bought an OEM seal from Courtesy Nissan. All of the other seals worked fine. Courtesy Nissan: http://www.courtesyp...cPath=7724_7747&

It looks weathered. If the door and rails are rusted through/rotted it is likley that you will find other rotted out areas. I would pass on this one. Do yourself a huge favor and keep looking for a stock Z with minimum rust, original wiring and has not been chopped up.

You have left out too many details to answer your question. Make, model and year of car would help.

Start here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/39435-help-what-brake-options-are-available-for-s30-z-cars/ Most of the information you seek is in the FAQ and Brake forums.

Check out Silvermine Motors.

You will need to consider space constraints as well as efficient cooling. I recall seeing many threads dealing with fans for 240Z with L6 engines. Do a search for fans and you will find many fans that will work for you.

That switch may be for the for the hatch glass defroster. On my 72 240Z there is a defroster switch like the one shown mounted in the flip up door over the fuse panel.

Sometimes the search function doesn't work.

I used a 280Z eight-inch booster when I did my Wilwood 1 inch swap to compensate for the additional effort caused by the larger bore Wilwood MC. That said, below is a list of threads I researched when I did my swap last October. Also, search at ClassicZ Car site. There are other variables that determine the largest diameter booster you can use such as the size of the clutch MC. You will need to adjust the MC push rod when you swap the MC and booster. Ultimately, you wiil have to measure and spend some time planning the swap. http://forums.hybrid...__1#entry428233 http://forums.hybrid...showtopic=49295 http://forums.hybrid...h__1#entry39020 http://forums.hybrid...s-on-a-73-240z/ http://forums.hybrid...__1#entry961528 http://forums.hybrid...__1#entry555413

Search the brake section. There are several threads that cover booster upgrade fitment solutions and the Wilwood 1 inch MC install. Start with the very first thread in the brake section.

A car that has sat for 15 years will need to have clutch and brake hydraulic parts renewed. Do not use junkyard hydraulic parts. Clutch: Save yourself future problems and just replace the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder at the same time. Do a search on how to bleed your clutch hydraulics in the drivetrain section. Brakes: For old cars you should inspect the brake system. In the interest of reliability and safety, I prefer to rebuild the brake system before driving an old car that has sat for a long time. This includes new wheel cylinders, calipers, brake hoses (steel braided), master cylinder, pads, shoes etc. Check that your brake booster is functional. If suspect repalce it. If you are not familiar with Datsun brakes you will need to buy Haines manual and research the HybridZ Brake Section. All of the parts you need are available from Motorsports Auto (MSA) and Black Dragon.

My insurance company was about to total my 240Z after a fender bender until I told them I was restoring the car. Without hesitation they agreed to repair the damage. So words like "It is a classic" may make a difference.

Thee are many recent threads on this topic dealing with the pros and cons of the Toyota swap. Keep reading and studying the issue before you make a final decision. Pad selection has also been discussed many times and is well documented in the brake section.

I had the same problem with with the green/white wire connection. Re-soldered it.

MSA carpet over two layers of insulation and sound attenuating material. Door panels by local upholstery shop. Power windows. Cut-down stock Camaro T5 shifter. All new plastic panels. Consol refinished with SEM Landau black.

Here is a headlight switch repair pdf you can download: http://www.kamikazer...ombo_switch.pdf Repairing the TS/headlight switch is easy. You'll need some small srew drivers, needle nose pliers, soldering iron, sand paper/nail files etc. Mostly it is cleaning carbon/oxidation off of the copper contacts and a little tweaking of the copper rockers and contacts.

Headlight switch: You have several options - Buy a used one and hope that it works. - Learn to repair the one you have. There are several "how to" threads here and at Classic Z Car that explain how to repair the TS/headlight switch. You might as well because the switch will need servicing as long as you own a 240Z. - Buy a spare and repair it and your original switch so you always have a spare. -There is a member here (Dave) who repairs the TS/headlight combi switch for a very reasonable price. Do a search. He also developed and sells the headlight relay harness. I may have a link to the switch repair that I can post here later.

Usual suspect: headlight switch. Check out the headlight switch with a volt meter. In the past I have found broken/corroded contacts in the headlight switch to be the problem. Download one of the many pdf/JPG electrical schematics available here and highlight the dash and running light circuits. Then test the headlight switch at the appropriate contact points. If you have an extra working headlight switch just swap it with the old one. I keep a set set of TS/headlight switches around for quick trouble shooting and repalcement.

Did you check the battery voltage? Autozone etc can check the battery and alternator for free. Suggestion: use pictures instead of words to describe your wiring issues. Use words to clearify the pictures.

Could be hearing some harmonic from exhaust or some drivetrain part is touching the body. I had this problem which was caused by the shifter tower touching the side of the trans tunnel at random times.

One other consideration is the push rod between the booster and the 280Zx MC will have to be lengthened for your brakes to function properly. Do a search in the brake section on push rod adjustment. There are many posts on this subject. So if you have already bolted the MC to the booster you will have unbolt the MC and pull it forward to adjust the push rod. If you don't adjust it correctly your brakes will lock up or be very weak/grabby. Also while you are searching, look up "reaction disk" as you may run into this issue before you are done.

Based on what you said, you do not have to flip the brake lines to install a 79 280ZX MC on a 72 240Z. To confirm this simply look at the 280ZX MC. It is marked with a F and R. Now trace the brake lines from the MC location to the front and rear brakes. It is obvious that the 280ZX MC F and R ports hook up the same as the stock 240Z MC unless some PO has changed it. You don't have to bend any lines. You may have to tweak the lines slightly, but that is all. I find it is easier to start the hard lines into the MC before bolting to the booster. This allows you to line up the threads and avoid possible cross threading a line. Note this topic has been covered extensively in the brake section.

Did you look at the Brake FAQ? Also, recently discussed here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/107891-questions-about-front-rear-brake-upgrades-for-73-240z/

Here is a thread on stock vs ugrades. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95402-stock-brakes-vs-upgrades/page__p__897529__hl__bjhines__fromsearch__1?do=findComment&comment=897529