Miles

It is an 18 ga. yellow and white wire. It is in the harness that runs from the passenger side of the engine comapartment, then crosses in front of the radiator, then to the driver's side fender then to the temp sensor.

The long stud that fits into the floor bracket is just spinning when you try to put a nut on it. Correct?

I don't recall if the 280Z used the same sliders as the 240. But, on the 240Z seat sliders, the studs have a "captive" head rather than a nut. You may have to replace the slider.

What type of car? Stock seat sliders?

Black Dragon http://www.blackdrag.../t.aspx?Page=18 I bought a hood and left front fendor from Black Dragon. No fitment problems. Motor Sports Auto (MSA) http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SBC1A06

I have run JTR radiators on two V8 240Zs and one stock 240Z. No problems and the JTR radiator bolts right in. The radiator in the picture was in my stock 240Z for five years before I did the V8 conversion and has been cooling the V8 now for two years. JTR also sells the hose kits for stock and V8 engines.

Before you get too far into your build be sure to buy and study the JTR 240Z engine swap manual. It will save you time and money. Go here: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html

This has been covered hundreds of times here. What are your plans? 300HP? 400HP? over 400HP?

Motor Sports Auto (MSA) and JTR sell the adaptor so you can use the Datsun temp sensor with the SBC engine. You should go to the JTR website and buy the JTR 240Z V8 engine swap manual as it explains exactly how to install a V8 in a 240Z. MSA sells the Datsun oil and temp sensors.

The JTR book explains how to adapt the datsun sending unit to the Chevy block. A 1/8" NPT nipple and right angle adaptor is all that is needed. The Datsun threads are close enough that it can be screwed into the 1/8" NPT right angle adaptor using some teflon thread tape. Go here for more info: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html

It will be a few weeks before I can get to it. Do a search in the brake FAQ and brake sections as this topic has come up many times. Also look at this: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/Calipers/zbrakeupgrade.htm

15 inch wheels work for sure.

Yes

Yes, there is a gasket. You can buy gasket material from a parts store. Use the flange of the MC as a template to outline the gasket and then cut it out with a razor. I use a piece of tubing as a punch to cut out the bolt holes. Sharpen the end of the tubing with a file. Place the gasket on a hard surface and then punch out the bolt holes.

This swap has ben performed 1000's of times and there are about that many posts on R200 swaps in the Drive Train section. I have been running an R200 with stock half shafts in my 240Zs for over ten years and never had a problem.

I have built two 240Z street cars using the 350 SBC WC T5 3.54 R200 combination. Very happy with the 3.54 R200 plus they are in great supply.

Go back and read all of the posts in the brake section concerning brake booster swaps for compatability with your Z. Booster diameters, clevis details, mounting bolt patterns etc. changed from year to year. Also, the push rod that goes between the booster and MC has to be carefully adjusted. There are many posts explaining how to adjust the push rod and select the correct boosters for your Z.

Picture of 4/89-7/91 S12-W Toyota caliper with correct pads.

The 79 - 83 280ZX MC is no longer available.

No. Do not connect the starter wire to the oil pressure switch. The purpose of the Green-White wire is to provide power while cranking. Actually, the wire is energized as you turn the key just before the switch hits the strarting position in the ignition switch. You can test this by connecting a test light to the green-white wire and turn the the ignition switch to start. You will see the light come on before the starter engages. As I recall the original purpose of the green-white wire was to provide direct voltage to the coil while cranking. I use this feature to fill the carb bowls if the car has sat too long. In the JTR Fuel System chapter:" If you are using the HEI distributor, the easiest way to wire the fuel pump for cranking conditions is to connect the green-white wire to the fuel pump wiring." This is the "by-pass" wire number 1 on the JTR electrical diagram on page 9-6. In the book you have to flip between page 9-6 and page 13-2. I tested the oil pressure switch before installing the engine. Using a drill to turn the oil pump drive and connecting a volt meter to the oil pressure switch, the oil pressure switch closed almost instantly. The switch is on a hair trigger and closes with very little pressure.

Go here for his website: http://www.frpautomotive.com/

Yes the black and yellow wire goes to the starter only.

Assuming a 240Z with a 350SBC engine and HEI distributor here is the wiring as per JTR: Green-White wire: Attach to fuel pump side of the oil pressure switch so the fuel pump will operate during starter operation. This is wire 1 on the JTR diagram. It ties into the wire (2) that goes to the fuel pump. This wire energizes when you move the key to the start position. If you turn the key part way to start just the fuel pump will come on which I use when the car has sat for awhile. Yellow-Black: Oil pressure sending wire. Black-White without protective sleeve: Tach terminal on HEI distributor. Black-White with protective sleeve: Bat terminal on HEI distributor. Yellow-White: Water temp gauge White-Red Thick: Alternator White: Positive terminal on starter Black-yellow: starter terminal The green wire can be found in the wiring harness between the glove box and the side of the car. It has a bullit connector that you can unplug and attach a wire from the output side of the oil pressure switch. The other end of the green wire is taped with the wires that attach to the fuel sending unit. I installed a Painless fuel pump relay between the oil pressure switch output and the green wire inside the car.

Could be that the master cylinder (MC) push rod that goes between the booster and the MC is adjusted too far out. The factory setting per Haynes, is 0.138 in - 0.157in (3.5mm - 4.0mm) between the face of the mounting flange and the tip of the push rod. You do not have to remove the MC to make this adjustment. Just remove the MC mounting nuts and pull it forward to access the pushrod (7mm). Be carefull not to drop the reaction disk (small rubber disk between the booster and the push rod) inside the booster (see brake section for info on the reaction disk). If the pushrod is adjusted too far out, the MC piston can't return far enough to open the fluid return port in the MC and pressure will build up locking your brakes. First thing you should do before making the push rod adjustment is to relieve pressure in the brake system by opening the MC bleed screws (10mm). If the fluid is under pressure (indicating push rod is adjusted too long) fluid will spurt out when the bleeder is opened. This step will relieve the pressure and free up the brakes if the push rod is adjusted too long. Is your E-brake dragging? Did you adjust the rear shoes to tight?

Summit Racing has the Wilwood 1 MC as well. Let us know how the Wilwood 1 " MC works out.