Miles

Rebuild the head and get the car running well. You will be in better position to sell the car.

Just a hunch. The only time I have seen all four wheels drag or lock up is when the piston in the master cylinder does not return all the way to its' resting position. This will keep the return ports covered such that pressure in the lines builds each time you pump the brakes. Eventually the brakes will drag and/or lock up. This is usually caused by an improperly adjusted master cylinder-booster push rod. To relieve the pressure take a 10mm wrench and open the bleeders on the MC. If pressure has built up you will see fluid squirt out and your wheels will now spin freely.

Buy the video "Just SUs" from Z Therapy. It explains the operation and step-by-step proceudre for tuning SU carbs.

The best info on SUs can be found here: http://www.ztherapy.com/

If you are not up to speed on setting drive shaft angles, you could take the car to a shop that specializes in building drive shafts such as an off road shop, driveline shop or possibly a transmission shop and have them check the angles for you. The shop may be able to find and correct the angles for you by shimming the transmission and/or differential mounts as appropriate. The shop could also check drive line balance as well. It is the little details like this that make or break a build project.

When you inspected under the car did you try turning the drive shaft, half shafts and wheels by hand while listening for noise/slop?

Could be any number of things. Need to get it up on a rack and inspect everything. May be something simple.

As johnc suggested, search the Driveline forum for driveline vibration/driveline angles. In addition, note that there can be other sources of vibration that mimic driveline angle vibration. What happens if you are parked in neutral and rev the engine high? Any vibration? Try it in neutral with the clutch in and then out. Just curious. Another source of vibration are driveline parts touching the body. For example, when first built, my 240Z with SBC and T5 trans the whole car would vibrate at high RPM while driving. The vibration always started just before the shift point and got worse as RPM increased. I suspected that my driveline angles were off. Upon inspection, I discovered that the T5 Hurst shifter housing was touching the trans tunnel under load transfering engine and driveline vibration to the body. Put the car up on a lift and look for witness marks where driveline components might move and touch the body or other parts. Use a crow bar and move components around to see if they touch/rub other parts. I had to trim off about 1/4 inch of the shifter hole on the driver's side to eliminate the vibration. Since you didn't build the car, a complete inspection of driveline angles, engine/trans mounts, half-shafts, U-joints, suspension etc would be a good place to start.

What do you mean by console l light? Instrument lights? Brake warning light?

I bought one from a local dealership in 09. May be NLA now, but check with a dealer.

If you are going to do an engine swap buy the Jags That Run Datsun Z V8 Conversion Manual http://www.jagsthatr...tsun_Z_V-8.html The JTR manual will answer most of the questions you have, including electrical, engine wiring, cooling, brakes, drivetrain suspension etc. for a 240Z engine swap. It includes engine wiring instructions. Most of the members here are more than willing to help with your questions, but you will need to research the forum so you can ask informed questions. I have done two 240Z V8 projects and found most of the information I needed by searching and then posting questions for clarification or to fill in the gaps. Based on my own experience, the JTR manual is the how-to book that you should buy and read at least five times followed by searching the forum extensively before you start your project. Especially check the FAQs and pinned posts as they cover just about every basic question that has come up concerning 240Z modifications. Good luck with your project.

Buy a copy of How to Restore yourDatsun Z - Car by Wick Humble no matter what direction your project is going. Also, buy the Datsun Z V8 Conversion Manual from Jags that Run (JTR) even if your not planning on a V8 swap. These books saved me countless hours of research and do overs. JTR link: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html

See if this helps for the Autometer fuel gage. I found it by using the search function: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=61300 As for the lights you may have a bad combination switch or you pulled some wires loose. All of your questions have been covered before extensively. Best way to learn about these cars is to search. You need to be more specific and detailed in your posts so other members can better understand your technical questions. Such as the year and model of your car. Some posts contain step by step instructions and parts used, but you have to search for them and it may take several old posts to get a complete picture of what to do. 72_240z_wiring.pdf

What are your plans for the build? Restoration? Restomod? Race?

What engine and mounts did you use?

See if this helps. 72_240z_wiring.pdf

Did you search or look here? http://forums.hybrid...-of-you-wheels/ American Racing Ansen Sprint wheels look good with any color. See picture.

Buy the book. It is about $39.00. Read it at least five times before you decide to start your project. Note: the book assumes that the reader has auto mechanics knowledge.

Motor Sports Auto (MSA) sells SU rebuild kits and parts: http://www.thezstore...TZS/CTGY/SFC01B I found some SU related videos on Youtube that may be of interest to you. Go to Youtube and search on SU carbs. More info here: http://atlanticz.ca/...bs/su/index.htm Click on pictures to enlarge.

Read his other posts.

There is a filter screen at the fuel inlet on the SU. Did you check to see if it clogged? The SU fuel feed is simple. Gravity feeds fuel from the bowl to the carb which is metered by a tapered rod in hole. The tapered rod moves up via the piston according to engine demand allowing more fuel to flow from the bowel. Sometimes refered to as a controlled drip. What can go wrong? The rod can be bent, the rod has some how slipped or moved, the rod has become mis-aligned and is binding, the rod is worn, the pistons are binding and not allowing the rod to lift (happened on my stock Z). In my case disassembly of the dome and piston revealed scoring which was preventing the piston from moving up and therefore restricting fuel flow. You can pull the dome and piston without removing the carb. I ended up buying Z Threrapy carbs as my carbs were leaking badly around the throttle shafts causing a lean sag. Throttle shaft leakage is a common problem on SUs and can make it impossable to adjust the mixture properly. Z Therapy uses sealed ball bearings on the throttle shafts to prevent air leaks from developing at this high wear point. I have also had the needle valves in the fuel inlet stick closed. Inspection showed scoring on the needle valve. Google SU carbs and you will find SU tuning and repair tech write-ups. There are a number of SU repair/trouble shooting tech write ups on various Z websites e.g., Z Home, Classic Z Car etc..

I agree with Morbias. It sounds like a lean problem. On the bottom of each SU there is a knurled mixture adjusting nut. Here is the basic starting point for setting the mixture: 1 - Looking top down at the SU turn the mixture nut counter clockwise (leaner) until it stops. This is the absolute lean condition and the starting point for the mixture adjustment. 2 - Looking down on the SU turn each mixture nut clockwise (richer) 2 1/2 turns out. Normally the engine will run with this setting which can be further refined to get the best mixture setting. If you are going to keep the SUs you can rebuild them with Z Therapy kits or or buy their rebuilt SU carbs.

Go here and buy the video tape "Just SUs" http://www.ztherapy.com/

Go here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=forums

You didn't search did you? There is a long list in the Vendors section.