Miles

Look here for possible bearing source: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/84546-r200-bearing-needed/page__p__801402__hl__%2Br200+%2Bbearing__fromsearch__1?do=findComment&comment=801402

At this point it sounds like it is the bearings which means you will need to inspect them for possible replacement. Recommend that you do both sides if you replace the bearings. If you are not familiar with the rear axle bearing replacement go here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/links/link/13-rear-wheel-bearing-replacement/ One other thing to check is the flange that bolts to the stub axle. It has a thin outer dust shield that can get dented and rub on the axle-housing making a scraping noise.

This happened on my 240Z some years ago. It turned out that the stub axle flange had some how become warped. You could see that it was warped when the wheel was turned. Installed a new stub axle to fix the problem. You mentioned new rear wheel bearings. Recheck the assembly. Are the axles, bearings, spacers and stub axle retaining nut installed correctly? Are any parts of the stub axle/flange rubbing on the strut housing?

Fuse selection: Use a fuse 125% of the current flow. So: 9.8 amps x 1.25 = 12.25 amps round up to 15 amp fuse. Yes, a 10 AWG wire can handle 30 amps. You may want to Google and save a wire size vs amperage table. For wire lengths over 20 feet or wires in a confined bundle, go to one larger size.

Check for a dead cylinder: You will need a pair of insulated pliers or a thick rag for this to avoid getting shocked. With the engine idling, pull off a plug wire and note if the engine rpm slows. If the rpm drops then the plug, wire, cap etc is working for that cylinder. If there is no change in rpm then that cylinder is not firing and you should suspect that the plug, wire, cap, rotor or distributor is at fault. You can swap in a spare wire, plug etc. to see if it cures the problem once you have identified the dead cylinder. If you don't find a dead cylinder then check every wire in the ignition system for corrosion and/or loose connection. Try swaping in a spare distibutor. I have had problems with new, but cheap, plug wires I purchased at the local parts store.

More info: Type of car? Engine/trans? Clutch/slave set up? Throwout arm movement? Did you follow break-in procedure for the clutch?

Hood adjusters? Do you mean the adjustable hood bump stops? If so, you can buy them at Motor Sports Auto (MSA).

You sure that the striker (catcher) is adjusted properly? With the door open the positions for the lobes on the latch are: Open: the lobe on the latch will be rotated all the way clockwise and pointing at the inside of the car. Closed: push the lobe when it is in the open position to the closed position counter clockwise until it stops. You will hear two clicks as the lobe moves into its closed position (pointing down). Test: Now, if you pull the door handle the latch will release and the lobe will rotate clockwise and again be pointing at the inside of the car. If it does this it is working properly and you need to look at the striker adjustment.

I used an Edelbrock 650 cfm carb on my SBC 240Z project initially. It acted acted as you described plus the engine just never seemed to run at peak performance. Performance always seemed sluggish. After much wasted time, effort and money tweeking the Edelbrock carb I replaced it with a Holley 575 cfm Street Avenger. Excellent drivability. Summit p/n Holley 0-80770 The difference was night and day. Haven't had a problem in the three years since the engine was dyno'd.

Davy Good find. Looks identical except for the material.

Most parts available: Motor Sports Auto (MSA) Varius Z parts plus body parts: Black Dragon If you are lucky sometimes a Nissan dealer. wrecking yards, Craigslist, HybridZ for sale section, Classic Z Car for sale section, various on-line Z clubs Do a web search as there are many Z related companies that supply OEM and after market parts. A few companies can supply fiberglass or composit parts. Also ebay. Do search this site as parts suppliers have been posted hundreds of times.

I always enjoyed working with Roger. Hope somebody will buy his inventory and continue supporting the Z community.

See picture for a example oil pressure switch installation. The picture is from my SBC V8, but the approach is the same. Note in the picture that I am using a 240Z oil pressure switch. The plumbing consists of 1/8 NPT brass nipple, "T", and elbow fittings. The 1/8 NPT threads are close enough to the metric Datsun pressure switch threads you can screw the pipe fitting into the switch using some teflon plumbers tape. The electrical hook up is to run your relay trigger voltage (ignition tap or direct wire from a switch) to one side of the oil pressure switch. From the other side of the pressure switch run a wire to the trigger side of your relay. I prefer the ignition tap as a trigger since when the ignition is off so is the fuel pump and there is a position on the ignition switch just before the start position which will energize the fuel pump before cranking the engine. Helps when the car has been sitting for awhile. The output from the relay goes to the fuel pump. Connect the relay output to the Datsun green wire to power the fuel pump. I used a Painless fuel pump Relay kit and mounted the relay inside the car on the passenger side requiring only a short run to connect to the green wire. This location is clean and allows for the easy removal of the relay to frustrate theives. This location also keeps the power wire from the battery to the relay short. Some people mount the relay in the passenger side tool storage box.

Do a search. Here is a post to get you started: http://forums.hybrid...__1#entry894170 You should also consider using an oil pressure cut off switch with the electric fuel pump for safety. A relay is recommended to take the load off the wiring and provide max voltage to the fuel pump. I use a tap off of the ignition circuit to trigger a relay with the relay output connected to the green wire mentioned in the above post. The green wire can be located in a harness just above the passeneger side kick panel. The green wire has a bullit connector just above the kick panel that you can use to connect the relay output. The green wire terminates along with a black ground wire in a taped up bundle next to the fuel tank sending unit. Evidently some 240Zs were fitted with electric fuel pumps. Keep searching and you will find that others have worked out the details.

First you need to buy the Jags that Run manual on 240Z V8 conversions as it will answer 90% of your questions. Go here: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html Read the book several times. Second there are a number of ways to answer your questions which have been covered in detail in many posts here over the last ten years. Every one of your questions has been covered at some point. The best advice is that you should buy the book above study it and search here on topics such as mounts, transmissions, project costs etc. All of the data you need is available in the various forums. Your asked: So, basically here's what I am after for cost estimates: $5k to build my first 240Z V8 and $10k to build my second 240Z V8 plus $3k for body, paint and interior. It depends on what you want. Engine mounts; bolt on or weld in style. If I can get info on both, it would be nice. There are three companies that make the engine and trans mount kits. JTR, Motor Sports Auto and Johns Cars Transmission mounts: see above Custom drive shaft cost: Check your local shops for cutting and balancing anything else I have overlooked? Yes. About a book full. Let the adventure begin.

Try the Z Barn. http://www.zbarn.com/zbarn3.htm

Try the Z Barn. They have a large inventory of used Z parts. Good guys and very reliable. http://www.zbarn.com/zbarn3.htm

Good to see you worked it out.

You are on the right track. Your equipment looks worn. Go ahead and repalce the plugs, plug wires, coil wire, distributor cap, rotor etc. That pick up module in the distirbutor may be suspect as well. On mine I had to also replace the distibutor as the shaft was so worn that the timing and points were next to impossible to set. Also, clean all of the electrical contacts in your ignition system. Replacing the parts will eliminate them as a variable as you continue to research your problem. Motor Sports Auto (MSA) sells all of the tune up parts you need. I prefer the MSA plug wire set as I didn't have good luck with auto parts store replacements. If you don't want to replace your carbs Z Therapy does sell SU rebuild kits. They are suposed to be better than the kits sold elsewhere. Check to see if air is leaking around the throttle shafts. It is a common problem with old SU carbs. The air leaking around the throttle shafts creates a lean condition that makes it hard to get the mixture set right. You can check the throttle shafts for air leaks by spraying carb cleaner or propane where the shafts rotate in the carb body. Listen for RPM to increase as you spray the shafts indicating an air leak.

I had some of the same issues with my SU carbs. After a few years of constant tweaking I finally realized the carbs needed a complete rebuild. The throttle shafts were leaking air so I opted to buy a pair of ZTherapy rebuilt SU carbs. About $600 at the time, but I never had to mess with them once they were installed and tuned.

Yes, too rich. Go to Z Therapy and buy the Video "Just SUs" it will teach you everything you need to know about tuning SU carbs. http://www.ztherapy.com/ They also sell quality rebuild kits and rebuilt SU carbs. Look at this: http://www.mudinmybl...?pg=sprkplgchrt

You could try tracing the wire from the back of the tach to the engine bay with a volt meter or test light.

By chance did you pull the vacuum line off of the vacuum advance? Did the car run ok before you worked on it? Replacing the clutch slave and master should not cause the symptoms you described.

If I overfill mine on a hot day fuel will seep out under the gas cap. Not a problem as long as I stop filling when the gas pump senses "full tank".

This is the approach I had considered, but was concerned about fuel expanding and leaking out. Any problems with leaks?