Miles

Are you going to try the Wilwood 1" MC next?

How close to the floor is the pedal during hard braking? From your post it sounds like the pedal must be firm once it engages.

What make and model car? Where exactly did you find the part? Being detailed and specific will help members with your questions.

Take your time and shop around. Check all of the systems. A clean unmolested electrical system is a plus. Buy this book if you intend on owning a 240Z,260Z or 280Z: How to Restore your Datsun Z-Car by Wick Humble. It explains, in detail, how to completey take apart and re-assemble a 240Z etc. Available at Motor Sports Auto (MSA), Amazon (cheaper) or at Black Dragon. This book will save you hours of research. It will also give information on what to look for when buying a Z car.

Most likely the widow frame needs to be adjusted. Remove the door panel to expose the bolts that secure the stainless steel window frame. There are bolts on the front and rear door edges as well as on the inner facing panel. Loosen all of the bolts and move the frame around until you get the best fit then snug the bolts down. If the frame doesn't move then you have missed a bolt. Be sure to test that the window rolls up/down freely and fits in the frame. Just play with it until everything fits. Buy this book if you intend on owning a 240Z,260Z or 280Z: How to Restore your Datsun Z-Car by Wick Humble. It explains, in detail, how to completey take apart and re-assemble a 240Z etc. Available at Motor Sports Auto (MSA) or at Black Dragon. This book will save you hours of research.

Why not just fix the heater/defrosting system so it works?

tightywhitey185 If you go with a stock MC let us know how it works out.

Electrical system intact/not modified by previous owners.

The bottom line on the 280ZX MC is that the companies that rebuild them are no longer doing so. But you will find many parts stores and on-line sellers say that have them even though their suppliers no longer support the 280ZX MC.

No.

Look here for 280ZX MC replacement: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/102754-a-one-inch-diameter-brake-master-cylinder-for-the-s30-z-cars/ There are several threads in the brake section concerning the Wilwood 1 inch MC and booster upgrades.

May be that your combination switch either has a broken wire or dirty contacts. It is easy to repair. You will need a schematic and a volt meter to check out if it is getting power etc. You can repair it or replace it, but you might as well learn how to do both since this is a common problem. Look here: http://www.kamikazer...ombo_switch.pdf This is for a 240Z, but it may be close to the same wiring. http://forums.hybrid...__1#entry669320

I installed a Retrosound radio in my 240Z. It failed within three months. Retrosound sent me a replacement with no hassle. That was over a year ago and no problems since. Also, the faceplate it came with was cut at the wrong angle. Evidently the kit was supposed to include a template to trim the faceplate for a 240Z, but was not included. The installation kit allows you to custom fit to any car. Sound quality and radio reception are about average. Wiring was easy. I ran the output through an amplifier located under the passenger seat. I ordered mine directly from Retrosound. If you order from Retrosound ask them to include the 240Z faceplate template as others have complained that it was missing from the kit. The reason I ordered from Retrosound is at that time, MSA and Black Dragon did not have the latest model in stock and they could not answer questions about the radio. The radio is made in China.

What pads and MC are you using?

One thing we want to avoid is creating a kluge by over complicating the brake system without understanding why the Toyota - 240SX swap isn't balanced. Kluge = an assortment of ill fitting parts forming a disgusting whole. What is needed is to find a solution as to why the Toyota 4x4 - 240SX combination doesn't work . It's not an engineered brake system to begin with. What would have to change to improve the performance of the Toyota 4x4 - 240SX swap? Things others have tried include more agressive pads, various front - rear pad combinations, larger master cylinder/booster combinations etc. And, of course, competent installation, bleeding, booster rod adjustment and etc. The 240SX rear brake set up is proportionly undersized when mated with the Toyota 4x4 front brakes. For example, my 91 4x4 4Runner had large drums on the rear so the front and rear brakes were better matched. A member (Edan, Silvermine Motors) seems to have come to the same conclusion, and came up with his big Mustang rear brake kit. So, go to a larger rear caliper/rotor combination or go back to a smaller front caliper/rotor combination for better front - rear balance. At this point I am considering going back to the smaller stock fronts with Porterfield R4-S pads, and a stock MC. I already have a 280Z booster and proportioning valve installed. Or doing the whole thing over with ArizonaZ brake kits.

Try the Z Barn. They used to sell the R200 and a mustache bar for the swap. Frome Z Barn used part section: We have put together a kit to swap an R180 differential to an R200 for the 1972 to 1978 models. It consists of the appropriate mustache bar, an Energy Suspension polyurethane mustache bar kit, and an OEM differential mount. For 1970 and 1971 models, you also need a longer drive shaft (DT 1002 or DT 1016) and a rear "aft" crossmember (SU1221). http://www.zbarn.com/zbarn3.htm

Re: Larger rear calipers Silvermine Motors (member owned) sells a big Mustang (2005?) rear caliper kit for the 240Z. http://www.silverminemotors.com/main.sc

I installed a Wilwood proportioning valve when I did the Toyota vented 4x4 and 240SX swap on my 240Z. I have the proportioning valve wide open to the rears and the rear brakes still do not do much work. In an effort to improve performance I installed a 1" Wilwood MC, a larger 280Z booster and Porterfield R4-S pads. So far there is not much improvement. However, having the proportioning valve might come handy if you start experimenting with different pad combinations etc such as using more aggressive rear pads. One member I talked to said that he gets better performance, as compared to one of his cars with the Toyota-240SX swap, from stock front brakes, good pads, 240SX rears, and a 280Z booster. On another car he has stock brakes with a 280Z booster and sees better performance as comapred to the Toyota-240SX swap. Recently, I spent some time reading old posts for the Toyota-240SX swap and the front-rear bias problem is a common complaint. There were some posts indicating the swap works well for others. So there appears to be a solution. The Toyota-240SX swap doesn't appear to be a balanced system. If someone out there has a Toyota-240Sx swap that works well, i.e. more balanced, speak up. What did you do to resolve the bias problem?

The Tilton 7/8 clutch MC is the tried and true solution for the T5 clutch set up. It is listed in the link I provided above. Tilton 7/8" MC TIL-74-875U $80.00 Summit I have used it on two 240Z builds in which I also used the plastic Camaro slave cylinder without problems.

Try Black Dragon http://www.blackdragonauto.com/zZxCatalog.htm

Another approach for bleeding the clutch MC/slave is to open the slave bleeder screw and let gravity flow fluid into it. Put a pan under the slave, remove the cap from the MC, top off the MC with fluid, open the slave bleed screw and let it drip for about an hour while keeping the MC topped off with fluid. Don't let the MC empty out. After about an hour, close the slave bleeder. Pump the clutch once or twice and, assuming that the slave and MC are not leaking and that you have the correct size MC, the clutch should work. In your post you said that you are using a 5/8 MC. Did you mean 7/8? Look at post 7 here: http://forums.hybrid...__1#entry920425

It is not an $8k car. Maybe$2k to $3k if it was clean and loaded with upgrades. It looks like a scarab install with the engine forward. For $8k I would expect the body and interior to be in better shape. Also, the 350 trans is not the best choice. A 700R4 auto or a T5 trans would be better. Keep looking.

This has been covered extensively.

You should have the stainless steel trim piece inserted into the seal before installing the seal on the hatch. It may be difficult to install the trim piece after the window is installed on the hatch. Ditto windshield.

I have done two hatches/windshields and did not use a any sealent. The glass shop I go to doesn't use sealent either.