260DET

Yeh, you should not have time to shuffle the steering wheel all the time, remember too there is better feel in pulling the wheel rather than pushing it. Practicing when driving the daily helps ingrain good habits.

To elaborate, you won't be able to get the S chassis subframe high enough without extensive and expensive body modifications. Of course it can be bolted in easy as but what about being able to use the new suspension at it's correct OE alignments? Unless you want a high arsed car the suspension will have to be lowered way past it's preferred alignments which means the performance advantage of the S chassis is lost. The lesson is, if you are serious, improve what you already have.

Must remember to update this thread because a particularly notorious circuit showed up the design fault in the undertray to such an extent that a lot of throttle lifting was necessary to keep the car on the track. It's OK for talkers like me to theorise but you can't beat real high speed track experience.

OK, so everyone likes the idea of doing all those things with your feet when changing gear, rather than concentrating on more productive things. Like checking out the scenery or else concentrating on your lines and those around you on the circuit

I see that Vasco input shafts are available, are those you the ones you twisted? I'm back investigating the viability of a E4N71B behind the LS3 for road racing, I have one from a '87 Z31 turbo. This will do for a bump, I assume the OP's kits are still available.

Like this vendor's unit http://www.supercarsllc.com/newmastershift/index.php/2013-07-31-07-45-42/manual-paddle-shifters Not clutchless though and no mention of an automatic throttle blip when downshifting.

If the OE helical from a short nose R200 does not fit a long nose then I will be looking for one.

Hmmmm, a lot of care has to be taken when using these sorts of finishes on the interior, there is a reason why all car makers keep texturing to a minimum. One problem is matching, all the interior should have the same sort of finish otherwise it looks bits and pieces and not coordinated. The other problem is the overall impression, it's easy to make some parts of the interior stand out from the rest in not a good way.

Have a TKO 5 speed lying around and am wondering if it can be fitted with a sequential shifter and a engine rev up downshift device, upshift ignition cut is no problem, the Haltech ECU will take care of that. It's for a circuit race LS3 Z, basically I want a setup where the clutch is only operated to get moving and to stop. Am looking for experienced info, I know that there are sequential adapters for the TKO but have no idea how well they work or don't. Real info would be great, there don't seem to be many in the US using this sort of equipment for some unknown reason.

What about the Tremec TKO 5 speed? Up to 600 ft/lb and relatively light. It's a no brainer really.

TechnoToy and Arizona Z both make great rear end stock improved setups, both specialise in race orientated parts for older cars. Either would be a far better option than messing around with a S chassis rear end, they bolt in simple as. As a foreigner it makes me wonder how come these specialist American suppliers probably sell more to people like me than Murricans, they never get mentioned on this forum.

Long nose R200's as will bolt straight in to a 280ZX have a limit of about 500WHP, around that and the pinion starts to give up, circuit racing I'm talking about.

Sadly most builds seem to be about looks and how fast it is in a straight line but avoiding gold gets a big thumbs up.

Standard type, aluminium, the higher the better. Post to Australia which is not difficult, pop them in a jiffy bag and fill in a description form at your PO and that's it.

If there is chassis flex due to rust damaged structural parts, slop in the rear suspension, weak dampers or any other similar age related deficiency then expect problems. With a semi trailing arm suspension everything has to be top notch, everything, for it to handle and brake well.

Assuming that more power is the aim then a IC is a good thing to have.

Thanks for the tips and info blokes, should have said this is for a Z31 race car project and the rules allow side exit exhausts. Basically I'm thinking that the shorter the exhaust the less weight. Noise is still an issue though so efficient mufflers are of particular interest.

The OP one has quite high mileage for what it is claimed to be which puts it outside the typical 'like new' collector's car. The S2's are quite decent looking but it's hard to get away from the underwhelming Z31 dynamics no matter how good they can be made to look.

No, what you are doing is too technical for the knockers to understand so go for it, build thread. Go on, you've done all this high end work so flaunt it lol.

Got some 1speedway bits, it's all pretty massive except for the hollow bar, the steel arms are simply huge so they will have to be lightened somehow. The mounts I got are quite good, bronze bushes into which the bar slides so unless they are misaligned there should be no binding. I try to keep an eye on the weight of the bolt on bits whatever they are, got some work to do here.

Two modified engine stands. The car can then be rotated 360 degrees which gives you different heights and angles to work on the body most effectively.

Transplanted a rear S14 subframe assembly years ago for a race two seater S130 and the biggest problem by far was not being able to get the assembly high enough. It's a race car so low is good but it's not a disaster, it's done quite a few laps and drives great. So what I'm saying is don't worry about the detail, it will sort itself out as you go, but get that subframe as high as possible which will involve cutting, patching and welding whatever gets in the way, not just some hammer massaging. No kit needed, if you can't do it without a kit then seriously you don't have the necessary skills and equipment to do such a job.

Get dry ice at your grocery store? I had to drive to a specialist gas supplier to get it and damn, I bet it was way more expensive than yours. It's the gun thing to use to remove interior tar sheet off the floor, comes off in sheets, amazing.

It's pretty easy to ID your diff as a R180 or R200.

Looking for a proven setup for the LS3 in a Z31, may not be proven for a Z31 but proven to deliver power with a muffled side exhaust. Out under the left door so obviously available length will be a lot less than usual, I'm thinking 4" or equivalent oval outlet with an effective muffler or two in there somewhere. Don't have much of a clue about exhausts, emudecate me.