roger280zx

Madkaw, what are 165 valves?

If I were you I'd be checking the jeep and s10 forums. Or maybe inliners.org, I don't think you will find what you are looking for here.

Cut some ducts in it.

It affects the boundary layer and will free up power that is lost to poor atomization. I would imagine that for an engine that doesn't get rebuilt every week, a polished exhaust runner and chamber would be much less prone to deposits. That is the way I have most often seen it practiced- somewhat rough intake, polished exhaust and chamber. Oh and it is nothing new, Dad's old 283 that was built in 1973 was done that way. They even went so far as to rough some surfaces more so than others. Think of the way a river flows around a bend... so a little more rough on the short side and smoother on the long side. That little engine did 498 bhp (1.71hp per cu in) on the engine dyno 10 years before I was born.

I like those vents a lot! Can we get dimensions on them? Just checked out the new Ztrix website and it looks great. I have a Camaro ss vent that we are mounting on the bulge of my zx, it may have to get some of these too if they compliment it. I'm taking the over vent it and block what isn't needed later approach.

Careful, those rota 17x9 with the typical -13 offset does not fit a 280zx with out coil overs, but the 9.5 -19 fits all around on a 280zx pretty well. Now with the electromotive wide body and a quick change out back imagine the possibilities. I think I've seen 18" BBS fins in ridiculous sizes on them before.

There are lots of guys that run them. I would just ask one of them what rear rotor they run.

I would think that more air to the wing should be good, even if some of it is warm.

What are your oil temps? Do you run a cooler? These cars are very responsive to adding an oil cooler I have seen it fix the problems that a $2000 radiator/shroud/fan couldn't fix.

I seem to recall an l28 powered s13 running pretty deep in the 9's, back in the 1990's. And I don't know much about this 0-4 factory (or any other Japanese tuner), but I did notice on their website when looking at the pics of the car that it looks to me like there is an awful lot left in it. Assuming the pictures I looked at where of the current stage of the car.. The fact that he is cutting that kind of 60' on that equipment is impressive. And 123mph with what seems to be a very straight forward carb/manifold and a box stock header, wow. Take a look at what some of the seriously high strung l28's are running, Bonneville, race boats, other Japanese drag cars and you know that this car, though impressive, is a long long way from "the fastest Lgata". The "Japan Record" may be in its limited class, and may be why they chose not to modify certain parts of the car. Think NHRA's F.A.S.T. class, Factory Appearance Stock Tire... Here guys put crazy hours into cam profiles intake mani and head machine work that will make the most of their combination yet "Appear" very stock. Everything that actually gets the car down the track such as chassis bracing, moving weight around, aero, and wheel/tire gets ignored because the point of the class is to look, sound, and feel very stock.

You really need to buy a tape measure, jack, jack stands, and a level before you go out and buy wheels and/or have wheels built. The rear, 10 +25 should fit fine with a 1 inch spacer. The front; however, is entirely different and will require at least a 2.25 or 2.5" spacer. I have seen many racing hearts redone to have rwd offsets, maybe he was talking about what he could do with what he had, or could easily get. A 4" lip should be pretty easy on the back, but its going to be hard to achieve on the front with a 9" wheel. I am no expert, but I have had many s130's and currently a wide body that has had me on a 5 year journey to the correct wheels... and I still don't have em!

In a new York minute.

"normthe12secsudude" or something like that. That fellow ran 12's on 10's of dollars.

I have a very nice set, I just don't have a car nice enough, hahaha. I'm not sure if shipping would kill the deal, but I'll check into it.

From what I've seen the m112 is pretty small for a 5.6l, I would look at the map for it. They are all on the eaton site.

Or you could put it in the words of Enzo "Aerodynamics are for those who can't build good engines."

If you're running 200mph with x hp you have good aero. The other guy doing 200 might have twice the power. In drag racing as with most stuff all things are relative. The reason most street type cars go down the quarter mile gobbling air from underneath is because the center of gravity they require to get enough weight to transfer. In other words a compromise, loose 3-4 mph up top, or 2-3 tenths due to lost traction... no contest. As for the picture drag car wing it has much more to due with getting all that air out from under the car than it does actually loading the tires with "downforce". Less lift is better, even if it still has a lot (in road race terms).

Looks like a pretty good zx, check the usual rust areas.

If you look back at anyone who has built headers for these, even for natural aspiration, they always have a big thick exhaust flange. The reason for this is on a long inline six the expansion that occurs from one end to the other is pretty drastic.

Is there an exhaust flange that I'm missing here? Or do you plan on running six tiny individual flanges? If so how do plan on controlling all the movement that will occur during heat cycles?

What shock/spring were used before/after? Where you able to raise the roll centers as others have mentioned? How much weight was added doing the swap? Are your tire temps more consistent? What were lap times before and after the swap? What benefits other than "Magic" have you experienced?

If you have these items: jack, jack stands, several blocks, and a tape measure, you can roll the ball yourself.

You definitely need a 280zx oil pan for a 280zx.. Oil pan.

6.0=400hp 3.0=200hp Same per liter.

Do be afraid to stretch, be very afraid.