roger280zx

Pete at Kamninari does not take kindly to folks copying his kits. He does more R&D than most, so why should everyone reap those fruits for him.

Usually you get what you pay for.

I thought the whole point of the trans swap was to get the bigger bearings and wider gears. You can literally clearance for it in you garage with a marker, piece of tape, and a die grinder or dremel.

I love the valve cover, you are the man Derek!

Check what 510 guys do with subbie diffs, r160 is even smaller, 2wd, a bit lighter than a z but not as heavy as an subbie. 300-400 depending on who you ask. Keeping good cool fluid in there is crucial. Don't forget some of those wrx's have a 1.1:1 center diff, meaning the differentials actually get even more torque.

I really liked how my old turbo drove in its previous, limited state of tune. I pulled it to measure wheels, clean, exc. learning that it was wrong for my application. You have to know what you have before you can move forward.

Get a wide band!!! After that tune timing and fuel, this can greatly reduce spool time. Inlet/ exhaust restrictions hinder spool and breathing all around. What gear are you running? What turbine housing are you running? The 3076 is well documented here and there are many who don't like it for the characteristics you described above. IMO it is better suited for small displacement/ higher boost applications.

Treadstone has about the best heat exchanger for a tight budget. You can get them with or with out endtanks, lots of options. They are big enough to offer great prices but small enough to still offer good service.

I thought we would never see 245's in this thread again. BRAVO!

Typically with a 280yz you see guys run 12 or 13 in the rear, and 10 or 11 in the front. Why is yours so much wider? Oh and I have some of those 15x14's from an imsa bodied car. Too bad they don't fit my zx, merrrr.

It isn't supposed to be safe, like the manufacturer designed it to be. It is supposed to be "aggressive". If you love your son you will put some rubber on those wheels, he will get over his friends not thinking he's cool... I mean, they can't even buy clothes that fit so........

'79 vinyl seat: 48lbs Including sliders, seat belt receptacle, and sweet furry cover.

I doubt the 4 barrel on a stock engine will have better throttle response or get better economy. You're dad is right though, the triples are junk, that is why they are on 90% of the seriously impressive n/a L series'. Good thing you grabbed that extra 3 cubic inches while you were in there.

Who ported the intake and head? What trans is this 6 puck hooking up to? Personally my trans is keeping my engine parts list sane, because I know other areas of the car need attention first. Seeing as you can turn ours to dust with just one of those fuel pumps and half the injector, I would suggest that be you next exercise. Gear box choices are well documented here. After that get an r200 with turbo cv's at the very minimum. That just about covers getting the power to the hub, from there what happens to your chassis when the wheels start to grab (assuming appropriate wheel/tire) can be addressed with chassis bracing and suspension componentry- which also can be found here.

Surely it is just a typo, let me fix that... 235 front 285 rear.. much better. That is what the picture looks like anyway.

Well ^^^^ that is not Matt's car, Matt didn't make the splitter for that car, glad to know some folks still can't let sleeping dogs lie. Tony, I would love to know more about these s130 lsr cars. Was the s130 gnose a factory developed part? Those of us who were born in the "Nissan years" after '83 who only know the aritaspeed gnose (and some state side version of it) and are inquiring on its benefits before we go coo coo trying to find one! I do have the original Kaminari air dam (that came with the car) which is nice because it has lots of big holes that can be easily ducted/blanked. But I really am trying to understand how the air gets around that protruding bumper and over that huge hood.

More s130 race car pics please.

Most any picture of the engine bay will show them clearly. They are the two long skinny rods crisscrossed between the hinges in front of the radiator.

If he traded you steelies for Epsilons he is not your friend, not unless you got lots of cash in the deal.

It says it right there in the link pal.

IMO the easiest and cheapest way to cure the high g oiling issue is to use a stock steel pan and add your capacity, trap doors, baffling, whatever else you wanna do. That is what we are doing. Dry sump would be ideal, but for now stock pan heavily modified will work. The "move the engine" comment was sarcasm btw.

How's that make ya feel?

Just move the engine back and the pan will fit.

Congratulations! It's all right here, you've found the right forum. One of the best things about this forum is that it is kept clean by not having many redundant threads, and you can find all the things you asked for above when you start searching.

Considering he has raced l28 vg3x and now the lsx, I'm sure he feels pretty good.