Armand

Way cool! That thing needs some nikes though!

If you wanna wait 5 or 6 years you can buy mine.

Hurry, Patent it before someone else does!

Where in so cal are you guys?

Eewwwww, why in the world would you pay money for a paint job like THAT?!

Your overall gear ratio will also be slightly shorter.

Problem Solved! Push rod needed to be adjusted plus the reaction disk was out of place. Dumba$$ mechanics at the local brake shop don't even know how to install a booster. My brakes are GREAT! With the new pads, new SS lines, new brake fluid, new larger master cylinder, new booster, re-adjusted rear drums, the pedal is sooo stiff with almost no fade whatsoever. Stock brakes kicka$$ when setup right. Its great because I can slam on the brakes with no locking up on any wheel. It just STOPS. My interior is almost finally completed so I'm really excited.

Alright, so I installed the new brake booster. Hissing went away, put the pedal still drops straight to the floor. I tried thinking what else could be wrong, its got a new mc, new booster, new stainless lines, no leaks anywhere, everything bled perfectly. So I realized that the 280zx mc was larger so I figured I should adjust the push rod a turn or two out. But this thing is just budged on there! No matter what I did this thing wouldn't budge. I tried searching HZ and google, and I found that since the push rod can't be moved the slightest bit, sometimes there is a very very strong locktite used on the threads when assembled. Is this my problem? How the hek do I get this thing loose?

I bought one locally for $130, it's a rebuilt A1 unit. Looks like a really nice piece. I'm gonna install it today and I'll update you guys. Thanks for the help.

Yes, my rear drums are perfect. All the brakes are functioning just fine, its just there is no vacuum. I think its my booster because I just noticed the hissing sound from the booster area when I push the pedal. I have a rebuilt unit somewhere in my garage. I'll try it out tomorow.

I just discovered that when I push the pedal I can hear gas escaping. So that's what's making the brakes have no vacuum. What I'm wondering is where can there be a leak? The MC is brand new and the booster is all good. No leaks in any brake lines anywhere.

Talk about some insane traction! WOW!

Hey guys, I'm just re-newing my stock brakes. Put hawk hps pads up front, new shoes in the rear, stainless steel brake lines all around, but I have a problem. When I tried bleeding the brakes it wouldn't hold a vacuum. So I checked out some stuff and found my master cylinder had a small leak. I looked around for an original mc but the only ones I found were like 240 bucks. So I put in the larger '79 280ZX mc. I also found my check valve was bad but I replaced that with a brand new piece. So right now my problem is my pedal has no firmness to it whatsoever. It's completely loose right before it hits the floor, toward the end of the pedal throw I can feel I'm just pressing the brakes with purely my foot power. When I do feel the brakes its extremely weak and I have to really push on the pedal hard to make the car stop. The brakes are bled perfectly but the pedal just hits the floor. My question is if the larger 280zx mc is causing this. When I first ordered the part I thought that it would be the opposite, I thought the pedal would feel even firmer with the larger mc. But is the larger mc w/ stock equipment causing this problem? Or is my problem elsewhere? I'm a 16 year old and I have no education or anything when it comes to cars. I only read what I can find online and in my repair manuals and try to figure out the rest. Thanks in advance, -Armand

I'll try and snap some pics tomorow morning when I get the chance. I have a 1971 240z. There's the main headliner, one that goes on top of the doors, and another than runs on the a-pillar. They overlap each other.

There is also a knob right of the steering column under the dash that adjusts the brightness of the dash lights, at least in the 240z, don't know if its in the same spot in the 280z.

Anyone know what kind of wheels are in the red 240 in that link? I want those wheels!

I have a very close friend who's parents have leased every single model of the S class since 1991. I've been in several rides in all of them, and driven the latest S550 and their old S500. I have to say that if you take good care of it, I would go with the S class. They are very reliable IF you maintain them well, and the comfort they provide is just plain ridiculous. And if its speed your looking for, that old S500 HAULS. That thing just MOVES, especially after 50mph and it never stops. My parents own a 1997 e320, and they've got 145,000 miles on it so far, and its given us no problems. We've just been doing the regular oil changes and tune-ups throughout its lifetime. I drive that car here and there and it still puts your head into the seat. If your looking for a sedan, my personal choice would be the old 5 series. If you can find one with low miles, go for it. They handle very well, are reliable, and just plain look awesome. I remember watching many top gear and fifth gear episodes and they always said how they consider the old 5 series to be the best handling sedan they've driven. One thing you should really consider when looking at the Jaguar is its re-sale value. I'm not sure if it has changed over the years but I remember about 4-5 years ago they had one of the worst re-sale values on the market.

Honestly I don't see what the problem is. Your son masturbating is completely normal, and 13 isn't really THAT young of an age to start. The only thing I would be concerned about is the underwear thing, that's just a bit weird. But as far as the masturbation goes I'd say let it be. My parents never talked to me about sex or masturbating or anything related. I just found out everything through people or reading stuff on the internet and Im perfectly fine. Put it this way, if there is a guy who doesn't masturbate in his lifetime, somethings wrong with him. LOL

I had the same problem with my car, any key could start it. I bought a new lock cylinder and just took it to a locksmith and he installed it for 20 bucks.

What sucks is I've been through every website listed on this forum and I still can't find a wheel I like!

Wonder how much it weighs..

How far does your current exhaust tip stick out from the body in the stock location?

That guy has been trying to sell those wheels for months now. Unfortunately the serious buyers can figure out he's trying to jip them. "You are bidding on a used JDM Pnasport 16" rim." The auction is for one wheel.

Thanks for the help. I actually went to pep boys and got some toyota/nissan interior rivets and they work! It's a couple of bucks for about 12 of them. But I had to drill/widen some of the holes in the body just a tad for the rivets to work in all the holes.

Sorry can't help you out but DAMN nice wheels!