WizardBlack

Search (on google) for the EFI bible (specific to the Datsun). It will show the components and explain what each part's function is and how it does it.

Like they said, just drop a turbo setup in and spank N/A without having to spend lots on squeezing every drop out of it. You are already swapping the motor out. Why the big deal keeping the same shortblock in it? I am not sure how you will find forged pistons without paying close to $800 for a decent set. Ross are pretty good bang for your buck.

Bah, you can download decent instructions (including from Miller, etc.) right off their site. There is plenty of stuff on 'teh interweb' to get you going. Mig is easy; I basically taught myself when I was a teenager. Tig is quite a bit trickier to learn and I taught myself with the help of forums and free teaching articles on the internet. As long as you aren't messing with suspension pieces you will be fine. It won't be the prettiest starting out, but it will get better with time. Go get a good Miller/Lincoln/Hobart 110V welder with as much amperage as you can find (and afford). Likewise, buy an autodarkening mask (don't waste your time with a fixed mask). Get some piping and thick sheet metal pieces from a home improvement store and just mess with it until you get it down. Find the "weld els" that you will use for your headers and get scrap or test pieces that are similar wall thickness. It isn't hard to learn on your own. For an investment of ~$400 for an entry level setup you will have the ability to fab tons of stuff and have much more self sufficiency. Don't waste your money on an off brand welder. A good one will last a long, long time. That, or find a buddy with a welder that will let you learn on it or show you a few things. Miller has about all you'd need to teach yourself. They have the articles that I used to learn TIG. http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/improving-your-skills/mig/ That link right there will give any enthusiast with a bit of initiative the tools they need to get rolling pretty quickly. You can do it! Mark

I wasn't aware that you could buy OE fenders any more.?..

Nah, the best option would be a high strung V8.

I have a beater Q45 (with a very low mile engine) that I plan to use to swap into my S30 (but the dang thing is too nice to rip apart yet). I also have two engines with different types of minor damage that are in various states of disassembly for spares, etc. If you need any measurements on the VH, just let me know.

Phil has a good point regarding injectors. But, assuming you got the correct injectors, you can stop the cold start injector by simply wrapping a paper towel around each jaw of a needle nose set of slip lock pliers and carefully clamping it shut. I don't know of any way to assure that the AFM hasn't been messed with. I would say if it is flooding at idle, try to get it running around in a lot or something and see if it floods cruising around. Regardless, I personally think that the AFM needs adjusted on any car given the age and relative new tech that EFI was whenever your S30 was made. I just start it up on a fresh set of plugs, let it warm up and then do a few pulls through a gear and then pull it over and shut it off. Check the plugs and adjust. White is lean. You know what rich looks like. A light brown is nice. Do it enough and you'll feel where it wants to be. A wideband makes it simpler, of course. Make sure you are checking all six plugs as well. Mark

I bought a Black Dragon replacement fender for my S30. Not terribly impressed with the fitment. Details of rework needed (so you can skip it if you are not interested): I will have to cut, shorten and reweld the loop that the inspection panel clips onto. The drain lip that follows around the inspection panel mating area is crashing against the inspection panel and has to be metal worked to open the area the panel fits into. The rear edge to follow the door is not quite right. It also appears as if they weld the reverse angled back edge that lines up against the door to the rest of the fender and it had a 1/2" area right at the crease that will need tacked closed. Some of the edges are bent pretty good. The packaging they ship it in is very good so it was packed that way. The two layers of sheet metal at the front end where the headlight bucket bolts on is slightly misaligned and I have to drill one hole out so the headlight bucket stud will fit into it. Anyways, any one else have experience with them? I really want to get the other fender, but not sure about getting another one from them. I think the one I have will test the limits of my own ability (or budget I am willing to permit) to repair and correct it.

I think everyone finds an escape to past time. My Dad never was into car building (more car repairing, so I learned business and not old school car building). I personally built and tuned turbo cars (yeah with all the computer whiz bangery). I really like building a big power car with a highly advanced computer (Wolf, AEM, MoTeC, etc.), but I get the old school enjoyment from building and carving black powder longrifles. OTOH, even with a modern car and an advanced standalone, I still rip all the other hand holding garbage out.

You are in technical.

You with a MIG/TIG and an order from a metal tube shop. The very few longtubes I have seen were made by the enthusiast. What's your weld and fab experience?

Most cars would have a hard time being as obnoxious as a tracked out dorito.

Did someone mess with your AFM? Try a fresh set of plugs. Maybe the seventh injector is buggered? Getting spark? Any modifications?

Subaru's typically use a four point mounting system. Two on the engine and two on the transmission. The two engine mounts are actually a pair of plates (each with a pair of bolts mounted to the block) which are mounted on the block just inboard of the decks. The first of the two trans mount points is a typical rubber bushed mount at the tail end of the trans to a cross member. The second mount is called the 'dogbone' and is essentially link shaped like a stretched figure eight. It mounts from the top of the bell housing to the firewall above the trans. On an S30 it would mount just below the hood latch bracket that is tack welded to the firewall. The width of the engine is the entire problem. If you widened the frame rails (substantially, by modification standards) it shouldn't be a problem. The answer the previous question, the entire engine sits in front of the acles. The engine and trans is a typical longitudinal setup with the axles bolted into the trans at approximately 12~14 inches behind the mounting face of the bell housing. The length of the engine is relatively low, but as I said, it's ALL in front of the axles. Plus a foot or so.

Same here with the RB set; just the Xenon bumper rubbing, but that's a different thread...

Jeg's and Autopower both sell cages.

You clearly aren't following what I'm asking. It is not very clear that, depending on how far up you cut it, you may not be able to simply pound it out. Some have done it that way, yes. Obviously. It seems like, as I already asked about (and not on the first page), some use triangular patches. It seems a third way is to cut a long strip to go all the way around the semi-circular area in one shot. As you admitted, the second question is not as evident.

Don't the turbo ECU's still run off of an AFM map in open loop? If so, it should not be terribly off.

Some people never stop and are always tweaking; just like always playing with the car at all. Others, whether it's running great or not, will get to a point and call it a day. Some people enjoy tweaking the car as much as driving it.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=1035735&postcount=11 from this: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=142761

It doesn't mean it comes with the controller and sensor. Just that it can use them for closed loop O2 correction. The sensors are all extra (which is typical for standalones). The Platinum Sport 2000 (ECU Only kit) includes: ECU Programmable Computer, USB Programming Cable,Instruction Manual (In Software), Programming Software

Ah, thank you, that helps! I have the 17x9/17x19.5 group buy wheels. I went with the standard tire most were using (I can dig it up). I intend to use sectioned struts with coilovers for a reasonable stance. The basic Tokico kit I have now leaves it too high and underdamped. With two people in the car, it rubs the tires on every slight bump. I don't want to have to go back and take off more when I get a sectioned street/weekend type of suspension on it.

Since this is the sticky for everyone looking for appropriate information, Ground Control just changed their design so that it utilizes a spherical bearing to properly pivot to the required angle to match the camber setting. Jon posts good images in the thread below: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150039

You really told us absolutely nothing about the intended use of the car. Or your budget. Or your fab skill. Etc.

Thanks for posting that. I knew you were switching when I saw your Classifieds ad. I wondered what the new ones were like (up close) and what you thought of them.