jeffer949

Yeah it takes out the resistors i think and gives your injectors full current.

I'll throw mine out there for funsies as mine is a same side intercooler and different then every body elses.

Hey i have a set of 280zxt cv's Let me get some pictures of them and ill let ya know. Shipping isnt going to be cheap but im sure you know that allready.

Very nice Austin. This swap is looking more and more appealing. Also have you changed your muffler yet? I know what you mean about it being nice having a quiet car. Mine used to be so loud with just a glass pack after the turbo. I even had earplugs in the car. Then i went with a dynomax muffler that is an offset one and its so nice cruising down the highway.

Why not just put both O2 sensors in the dp and let it run that way? what would be a down fall of this? Granted both banks would be running the same but it would still work.

My car has high Z injectors so i actually bridge the legs of the flyback circuit and my car drove better when i did it.

Any body else watch the initial D? ive seen this like a long time ago. well over a year. So how is it new?

They make O2 sensor eliminators that you can buy. My friend has them on his twin turbo Audi S4 that has no cats. and he isnt getting any check engine codes from it.

Im going to have to go with the Maltese the are really sweet dogs. They have a good even temperment and they dont shed at all but you have to get them groomed. My mom has one and she teaches piano lessons and it has never once came close to snapping at a kid and even if it does it isnt going to do much.

Alfredo sauce is just heavy cream and ramano cheese. And i mean tons of cheese like cups of it in a very small portion.

Hey Derek. Im going to jump in here on the synchronizing of these things. Ive synched many of a motorcycle carbs and ITB's. There is a reason that the industry standard for doing this job is the mercury sticks. They just plain work. And Id say buy 2 and do them all at once. It will make your life so much easier. It is possible to make your own if you have a source for mercury. Hell my dad even went on the cheap before i had a set of the mercury sticks and used engine oil instead of mercury. You wont be able to get a "true reading" but it will read the same for all cylinders and its more about that than getting a certian number. Do a google on making your own and im sure you can find some plans for it. And then with your abilities im sure you can make something work for ya.

Never mind its in May this year. You BETTER have this together by then!!!!

So is this going to make it to DNI????

Electrical tape works better than the duct tape. It wont get your tools all sticky. But looks good phil. Do you mind me asking how much you paid for that turbo?

magnacor's are worth every penny. and its not a baind aid on the power filter. Its just fixing a problem that the MS guys didnt see. and have you checked your alternator? does it go up and down wiht your rpm cause if so thats just the normal Z alternator.

I love that movie. I cant remember the name but another line in that movie i like is "your only allowed 3 great woman in your life. Unfortunately for me i had all mine by the time i was 18" lol At least i think he said 18, it was something young i remember that.

That S30 looked kinda busted. It was all saggy in the rear and the front end was pointing to the moon.

ouch. See another reason you shouldnt smoke!!

Id like to know if you can get this to work also. Im really wanting to install cruise control into my Z for the 12hr. trips from FL to TN. or from TN to KS

Not sure on the zx's but im pretty sure they are the same. There is linkage that is controls both of the wipers by the same motor so something came apart or broke. You need to take your cowl off and have a look.

Glad to see you got the zip tie on the front fork to measure how much travel your using.

Well Im going to call this one licked. It was my damn MSD 6A. I took it out and it was gone. I had it wired up so the it was getting its switched power from the same source as my MegaSquirt. So IDK if i could of changed that and it would of worked but I took it out and I havent had a noticable reset since. I did also make a new fuel injector injector wiring harness but i dont think that had anything to do with it.

WOW im an idiot. My belt was slipping. hence why it would charge when it was cold and then when it would warm up the belt would start slipping and stop working. I was out of adjustment so i went and got a new belt that was a size smaller. i think it was a 17340 instead of the 17350 that is for the car. I think part of this has to do with the fact that i have the professional products dampener from MSA and its has a smaller diameter so i couldnt get my belt tight enough. And on the switch i installed It is supposed to be closed all the time if any body reads this. So basically you dont even need it there.

Ok so i have been fighting a charging problem for about 2 weeks now. Ive replaced my battery my alternator and ive rewired the charging circuit so that its completely separate. Ive been going off of this diagram that i found on atlanticz.ca And here is a ruff diagram of what i have done exactly. It does not charge all the time though. When it does charge it charges at 14.6 volts pretty much all the time just not at idle and it comes down to like 13.5 i think. It seems to charge normally at first but if i let the revs come down and idle after a while it stops charging. and wont come back on. unless I turn my car off and start it again. Also i wouldnt say its not charging at all its just not giving a full charge. It normally will stay around 12v's ish but very slowly drop and this is at night with lights, heater, wipers all on and running My MSNS. And it did this for at least 85 miles the past 2 days. but the battery was down to about 11volts last night when i checked when i got home. On the circuit above i have the switch and the light going to the L post. I put the switch in there because i wasnt sure which way was correct to wire it up. So which is the correct way? Ive read some stuff on the GM 10SI alternators that say you need a resistor inline to the L post to give it an initial load. Do you think i need that or is the lamp good enough? Im at a loss hear. Any help would be appreciated. Im sick of having to charge my battery every day to get to work and keeping an extra batter in the back just in case. Thanks

Its been running better but it's been messing up and getting what i think are resets(I say think because my laptop got stolen so i cant be for sure) Not nearly as many as i used to get. Some days it wont have any but then the next it will be back. I still haven't separated the grounds yet. I just started working this past week again so ill have some more money to throw at it. Im fighting a charging problem right now so thats taking priority. I may say screw it and order a new MS. Ive read that the 3.47 board has the ground issues cleared up. We will see. Will probably be a few weeks till I get to that point yet. I thought of something else the other day also. Its that my MSD box and my MS box are both getting there switched power from the same point. So im thinking that maybe the MSD box is backfeeding into the MS somehow. So im going to try to move my switched power to another location for my MS relay board.