Zetsaz

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html

I don't have personal experience with it, but most reviews I've read say don't bother. Better than nothing, but not really worth the trouble and cost if you're tearing open your differential anyway. You're better off with an OBX unit. Some light reading: https://mycomputerninja.com/?p=440

@rturbo 930: It's the $100 series 1 shell I picked up. Pretty much just got it for the steering wheel and early style turn signals/tailights. Never would have picked it up if it cost me more. I could probably chop of the lower rear quarters. They seem to be in decent shape. You'd have to give me some sort of way to ID where you want me to cut from. Send me a PM to remind me to get you some pictures of the condition when I get the chance. @seattlejester: It'd definitely be nice to have some help taking some stuff apart, especially since my tool selection is limited. I probaby have enough room in my small storage room to put everything in, even if it's not ideal. Whenever you have a free night or weekend let me know, although weekends are usually my only time to see my girlfriend so she'd have to join in on the chaos haha.

I'm all for that. I doubt the thing will sell, unless I basically give it away. the exterior looks half decent and some of the panels could still sell, but the floors and that passenger firewall area where the battery tray was chopped are so far gone that they're practically non-existent. Probably more valuable in scrap and for the bits and pieces I can use to help friends with their own projects. Do you have anything I could chop stuff with? I still need to build up more of my tools up here and I don't have any big cutting tools.

Oh, definitely would be nice! And the Z is definitely coming up here this summer! Dad has already been meaning to come up and visit, so we came up with a plan for the end of the summer. I'll have to have most of the drivetrain, at least the heavier bits, bolted to the new shell, but the plan is to rent a trailer and pull the car up here with my dad's Tahoe on my way back this summer while my dad comes to visit this part of the country. Need to make sure I get rid of that other shell first otherwise my roommate will hate me haha.

For those who didn't see my other thread on porting/cleaning questions I got a non-egr N42 intake! Making it a mini-project while I'm in washington. In other news, I'm always curious about finding japanese examples of S30s, but it's difficult to find anything other than what the major US car magazines put out. I ordered this magazine from Japan to satisfy my curiousity (no overnight parts from Japan here... took a little over a week and I thought that was surprisingly fast). It's interesting to see that US magazines place high emphasis on fancy photos and the writing, at least from my perspective as someone with a college degree who teaches for a living, is generally mediocre. This japanese magazine/book on the other hand has almost the same shots of every car and all of them have the more unique engine mods detailed as well as exact wheel/tire specs for every car. This thing is very nice is close to 200 pages, more than half of them being 1 page features of different S30s printed on thick photo/magazine paper. If you're curious how I'm getting any info out of this... I'm not. Bixby vision on my galaxy phone is helping and anything I see that I'm more curious about with it. It's hit and miss, but it's really neat to see this technology develop!

Good info! Will have to try that tomorrow. Some of the hardware and the original heat shield are soaking in vinegar to get some of the surface rust off. Working incredibly well. Probably better for a separate thread, but I'm also thinking of what to do with that, high temp paint, or gold reflective tape or something. Need to look more into that as well. Will probably hold off on porting out for the 60mm throttle body for now.

Curious if there's any way to leave feedback without connecting to a thread. Have purchased items from other members who I'd love to give positive feedback to for the rest of the community to better recognize who's a reputable seller, but sometimes it's been separate from a for sale ad posting. Is this possible? Or can we set up a generic for sale posting for instances like this so we have something for the system to reference on feedback?

I picked up a non-EGR N42 intake manifold recently and got a good chunk of the grease off but hoping to really clean it off and was hoping to get people's feedback on what's worked for them. The casting texture seems to hold on to some things. Also, for those who have run 60mm throttle bodies; how have you gone about port matching to the new throttle body. I know BRAAP's guide says using the 60mm body is pointless without it, but others have also said you'll still have a restriction in the runners so don't bother. Most recently on a very old thread someone had a picture showing that you might not have enough material to just port it straight through and someone suggested just clearancing it so there's not a lip, which I guess just makes a bit of a funnel into the plenum. Just curious what people have used for tools as well before I get into it. Here's as it sits with my new fuel rail and injectors test fitted.

Depends on what you plan on racing it in. https://www.scca.com/pages/solo-cars-and-rules NASA has more road racing stuff and if you're interested in that it may be slightly different rules. https://www.nasaproracing.com/rules

Got the chance to empty the extra parts and store them yesterday. Will be finishing up removing some last bits of trim and extra things like the brake and clutch MCs, the steering shaft, and any other small pieces that aren't part of the frame. In thinking about what the car will be used for I've been considering the sorts of reinforcement I want to do. Everything I've read, especially comments from John Coffey who actually cut up a 280z and has done some testing, point to the fact that the 280z seems to be substantially stronger than the 240z. Was also reading through this thread: Slightly conflicting information and I the main point JohnC made was that the seam welding instead of stitch welding might be what caused the discrepancy. Regardless, what I'm getting from this is that the 280z was actually WEAKER after doing some seam welding. Is that right? I was going to ask about about that affects SCCA classes because autox or some other racing on very rare occasions are something I've thought about, but after reading the rules, some of my must have mods would put me into the Modified category (I think...) so even in a turbo L-series would be up against LS engines. All moot, no point point chasing rules, I'm just gonna have fun and not worry about it if that's the case.

Realistically you can get just about anything to fit as a replacement. I'd just take the nut that goes over the opposite end to a hardware store. Any place should have somewhere for you to check the size. Length isn't hugely important. I'd probably go with something that's about 3/4" to an inch.

And refer to this comment by John Coffey if you haven't already seen it pop up. Some people get a little crazier with cages, but in the same thread this is from John recommended (more accurately, he stated): "Never run a full roll cage on a street car"

Read this thread

If you haven't already bought the autometer gauges I would highly recommend Speedhut gauges

Those look so good! I've always loved 3 piece mesh wheels. SSR Formula and the Southern Way Epsilons are so good. I've been considering pretty much the same scheme you went with but have never been able to mentally commit to cutting for flares so I'd probably do it under stock flares with narrower wheels. Great purchase! Excited to see how they look once the whole thing is on the ground.

Yeah, a lot of it is just for show though and really isn't practical. I LOOKS easy to work with until you realize that a fair amount of stuff that could go bad is tucked away in hard to reach places. I wouldn't quite go to the extreme they've gone, but I think they're great modernizations of the Z in many ways.

Update time: This is the new shell that is now safely at my house taking up more space in my dad's garage haha. (Fortunately my first car, the Celica that spun a bearing before I moved was scrapped over the holidays when I had a chance to get it there. The Maxima I moved to washington in is also in a junkyard somewhere now). It feels really satisfying to know this thing is comfortably stored now waiting for some work. User Madovic from here is who I purchased it form and honestly I wasn't expecting nearly as much stuff to come with it as I got. I also went for the freshly rebuilt R200 CLSD he had. He dropped the price on the LSD substantially since I was buying the shell and gave me a rock bottom price on the shell to get it out of his way for his new project. I'm not sure I could even properly redo the floors and rails on the other car for what I got the shell and LSD for, so I'm really happy to have done business with him. Genuinely one of the most honest private sellers I've ever dealt with for anything, but I digress.... I also got some other fun goodies.... I got a lot of fun goodies, the most expensive of which will be transferrable to other things I might want to use in the future, but in the meantime will help me learn a whole lot more about EFI tuning: MS3X 2 sets of harnesses required for MS3 and MS3X Coil on Plug setup using LS coils on a custom braket for the L series ZXT distributor with diyautotune optical trigger wheel ready to send signal to MS Fuel rail with modest 315cc injectors since I'm not going turbo (yet at least...) 60mm throttle body with 240sx TPS GM idle air controller and DIYautotune bypass block A few other things I'm probably forgetting. Some of my favorite cars recently have been the MZR roadsports Zs. Nothing outrageously different done as far as styling but much more modern tech running everything, which has always been my goal. In the future I might go a different direction with the engine down the road, but finding deals like this, especially when the most expensive portion of the stuff (MS3) is transferrable will allow me to learn more about engine tuning and let me enjoy my current engine even more while not making me feel totally tied down by the investment I've made. Some pictures of the MZR cars to get an idea of the style build I'd go wtih if I stick with the L series long term. Obviously some of this stuff is way above my budget and the engine "shaving" is on the extreme side but it's nice to find cars like this that are subtle and follow similar mindset to my own.

That is awesome! JZ engines have always been favorites of mine. 1jz sounds like it would be a riot. Would love to get one, but I'm too invested into just making a properly functioning and half decent looking car at the moment so I'll have to settle with living vicariously through build threads like this one haha.

Really excited to see how this thing turns out. Keep going back and fourth between some kind of turbo build or just a fun NA. Already have MS3x ready for anything.

That's siiiiick. Excited to see how this thing turns out!

That's the same reason I go back and forth on it in the future. If I did buy something like that in carbon, I would try to get a carbon or fiberglass hatch as well and match them to whatever paint I had on the rest of the car.

I'd keep the rear bumper on. Only reason not to is for heavily modified cars or those that don't use the front. Weirdly enough, some of the cars from Star Road that have the full length front grill and bumper deletes are still using the rear bumper. I think it looks unbalanced. As far as the bonnet is concerned, for the cost of a new original one you could have one from carbon fiber. Of course some people have complained about small fitment issues with those as well, so it depends on what you're after.

I believe the popular panasport set is the 16x7 +10. Seems a bit conservative. I've looked into sizing for this stuff obsessively and most people seem to be having the best success with 16x8 +4 on some of the rota sets. I wouldn't try to run any wider without a higher positive offset. Also refer to this thread

That should be it