z-ya

The stock head height is around 107.9mm (4.248"). So it looks like they shaved it 0.020", which is pretty common since that is what cam tower shims typically available as. Maybe you were off a little when you measured the shims? 4.248 - 0.080 = 4.168 (what you should shave it to). I'm sure you already know that there is a lot more to this mod than just shaving the head. Pete

Are those OEM fenders you are trial fitting them on? Maybe it's the fenders?

I understand that MS can do staged, just never seen anyone use it. My concern would be running 6 injectors on one driver. Possible, but pushing the limit of what those drivers can do. If people are using staged with success, good for them. On my Wolf system it has two extra drivers for batch fire.

I've never seen MS use staged injection. Most all I've seen (and tuned) are batch fire. My turbo car is a different story. I use the staged injection on the Wolf 3D ECU. So at idle, it is just the 6 36lb injectors in the stock location. At 30% load I have two more 36lb ahead of the TB that gradually start opening. At WOT the two additional 36lb injectors are running at the same duty cycle as the primary 6 injectors. Most all modern injectors are designed to have a non linear flow rate vs. opening time. So at low duty cycles, small amounts of fuel can be delivered from somewhat large injectors. Not a lot of fuel comes out at let say a 1.5ms (1.5 thousands of a second) opening time. So it doesn't surprise me that injectors upstream of the throttle plate seem to idle just fine.

You could always goes with one of these: http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt43033/pd858312/KAMEARI_L6_METAL_HEAD_GASKETS_ Price is crazy for sure. I plan on using a copper gasket on my build. $100 made to whatever thickness I need. Freshly surfaced deck and head, plus copper spray should prevent leaks. It's either that or a new set of forged pistons and stock head gasket with a orings. Either way, it's costing me.

We know the person that purchased many of the cars and parts that Bob Sharp still had a few years back. He has since sold the 240Z that Paul Newman won the 1975 C production championship in. Since this was the only S30 he had, we made an offer to buy all the S30 parts he had. He just sold the Z31 turbo Paul Newman won two GT1 championships in. It's going out to CA in February to its new owner. He still has the 280ZX TT IMSA car and the Z31 Tom Cruise raced in SCCA showroom stock class. Both are for sale if you know of anyone with a big wallet and that likes vintage racing Zs.

No, the Bad-a**-Dog . Seriously, it will definitely have more power, but a lot of the work we are doing is to make it safer and conform to the vintage safety rules. I may take you up on that offer! Pete

Didn't get any radiator caps with all this stuff. I know who to ask though . I'll also find out how all the -3AN lines to connected. I'm not totally sure at this point.

I haven't decided how I will route the cooling yet. There wasn't a thermostat in the housing with the restriction. Sending the cam, rockers, valve springs, and lash pads out for cryo treatment later this week. Here are more pics of the Bob Sharp prepared E31 head I am using:

I would double check your CR calculation. Bore +1.5mm over what you thought, and now a 0.6mm gasket. Also, is the head shaved at all? What is the piston dish cc? I would suggest a copper HG with the correct bore diameter and thickness for your target CR. Then shim the cam towers and align hone if you need to.

Update: Head has been disassembled, checked for flatness, and pressure tested. All tested OK. My machinist is impressed with the level of work done to the head. It is basically ready to go. Titanium valves, bronze guides, each valve spring shimmed for correct pressure. The only thing that needs to be done is the cam towers need to be align honed. I need to decide on pistons before that can be done (need to know HG thickness and shim cam towers). Here are some photos: Now I have a new set of these Cosworth pistons which I may use: But Cosworth can't find any information about them, so I need to measure the dome volume. So I blasted and painted the top of a used one, waxed it, and made an impression in fiber filler. I'll cc the impression to determine the dome volume. Once I know that, I can: - Decide if I will use them (CR??) - Determine HG thickness - Determine how much to shim cam towers

Cut off the 3/16" return barb and drill the plate for a 1/4" NPT tap, then tap it 1/4" NTP. The plate is not all that thick, but you can still screw a 1/4" NPT to 5/16" hose barb into the threaded hole. What I suggest is to either put some sort of fuel proof glue on the thread, or solder it to prevent any leakage.

Since 75-76 tanks are hard to come by in good shape (any S30 tank for that matter), I was thinking of this setup. You will need to fabricate or buy a suitable surge tank. Find a place to mount it at the rear of the car (along with two pumps) Connect like this with all 5/16" hoses and fittings: [240Z tank] -> [Filter] -> [Low pressure pump] -> [surge tank] -> [240Z tank] [surge tank] -> [EFI pump] -> [Filter] -> [stock 240Z 5/16" hard line] -> [fuel rail] -> [regulator] -> [surge tank] The only modification to the 240Z tank is to remove and drill out the stock return barb. I did this on my turbo car and soldered in a 3/6" barb. You could use some fuel proof epoxy or JB Weld or something so you don't have to put a flame to the tank. Basically if you drill and tap the plate where the return barb is to 1/4" NPT, you can screw a hose barb in there with some epoxy or something and it should hold just fine (no pressure). Use the stock 5/16" hard line, and leave the 3/16" one alone. Believe me, it is not fund removing and reinstalling those hard lines. The other option is to use the evap line as Tony suggested. If you use that, you can locate the surge tank and EFI pump in the engine compartment. In either case, you need to drill the stock return barb on the 240Z tank and replace it with 5/16" barb.

http://srpowdercoating.com/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/97395-is-this-color-ok/ Chris does great work.

Holy powdercoat Batman! Not exactly what I had in mind when I built the engine, but it certainly is a nice exercise to showoff your excellent powdercoating work Chris. Super nice gloss on the valve cover. Nice work! I've got extra engine parts (head, block, etc.), it f you want to coat an entire engine for display in your shop. Pete

They are stock sized replacement 280ZXT pistons (dished).

Just clean it as good as you can using mineral spirits, a clean cloth and compressed air. Spray 3-4 thin coats of copper spray and let it cure for a least a few hours before installation.

Hussy (and others) can make you an L6 copper gasket in whatever standard copper thicknesses are available. Reasonable price too.

Wiki D leaks.... Very interesting.

I've seen 300+ WHP turbo motors have zero issues running a mild performance clutch from Centerforce and a 225mm flywheel. The car also saw track duty. No issues.

I haven't bought from these guys, but they have a big selection and free shipping. They also have decent prices on flywheels. http://www.clutchflywheel.com/

I wish Cometic made an L6 gasket.

In my case the cell has a lip that attaches to the 1x1 frame. The rear deck is sandwiched between the cell lip and the 1x1 steel frame. So the lip is sealed to the deck with some thin stick on foam. The cover that isolates the cell from the passenger compartment is not sealed. It just mates flush on top of the cell lip. Pete

The gasket is solid copper. It is the fire ring!

Here are my comments: - For a street application, don't bother with circuit breakers. If you are really bent on having them, then use them only in critical circuits, like the ECU, fuel pump, and ignition. Or, use one circuit breaker for everything (replace 50A fuse with CB). - Use the fuses that come with the Wolf (it should be integrated into the harness). - You should have a separate fuse for each device type (IAC, BC, etc.) - You don't need such a heavy duty relay. Use standard 30A for everything - Cooling fan? I would use the following relays: - FUEL - IGN+INJ+ECU - LC-1+J&S - FAN See my MSII schematic below. It'll give you an idea of how I've wired up systems. Pete MSII-EDIS-Wiring.pdf