Derek

On the plus side this is the most action this thread has had in ages.

I started typing a number of snarky responses and have settled on Wow what a shitty thing to say.

Congratulations you have finally gotten a "I must have that" out of me. Great job.

Ouch. That means I'm extremely old now I'm wet sanding and buffing my Z and let me tell you I'm feeling all of those 65 years.

I've sold 22 heads.

Today this post is officially 10 years old. I was trying to think of something witty to say but I'm drawing a blank. Being 65 will do that to you sometimes. Anyway here's wonderwall.

I have a get down white light scanner and a lot of times unless it has some really complicated contours or boss locations it ends up being faster to do it either with calipers or I'll mount it up in the mill and probe out the needed data. But when I do need it I'm super glad I have it.

Yes No

Nothing more satisfying to me than designing something in CAD then walking out to the shop and implementing it. Great work.....As usual:)

Don't tell my wife Like I tell other people. some like to fish, some like to bowl, I like to make.

The most economical way forward in my opinion would be a custom casting that utilized RB components with custom timing sprockets. But even then you would have to put up a pretty large amount of cash.

He's saying although we are launching a DOHC head in 2024 we readily admit it will be pale in comparison the mighty KN20 from Datsunworks. At least that's what I'm hearing.

Fuel injection if you don't live within driving distance to a tuner that knows side drafts. I like that I can tweak things myself and quickly revert back to a saved tune when I invariably screw it up:) My tuner has done a very good job with my ITB's and I've never even met him in person.

I purchased one of their new poly tanks for my 240 that are designed to accept an in tank pump. I thought before I hacked into it I would start a thread to kick around some ideas. Here is my list of areas I want to address: In tank pump. I already have that figured out. I purchased a Tanks Inc. Fuel Pump Assembly Plates GPA-A which will accept my current Walbro pump that resides in my current swirl pot. I haven’t settled in yet on what exact pickup arrangement I want to use and would welcome any suggestions. I’m not auto crossing just spirited public street driving. The stock Walbro pickup may be fine. Venting to handle fuel consumption and fumes. I found a previous thread https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/133662-homemade-gas-tank-venting-design-considerations/ where AydinZ71 mentions using a double check valve arrangement from Mcmaster Carr that allows fumes to escape but still allows air in. I plan on using this method. Fuel level sender that will play nicely with my Speed Hut fuel gauge. This is one of the main reasons I’m switching to this tank. The stock sender just sucks with their gauge. They sell a universal lever style https://speedhut.com/accessories/sensors/fuel-level-sensors/240-33-ohm-resistive-float-fuel-level-sensor/ but I’m not crazy about staying with a lever type sender. There are a variety of 240-33 ohm straight tube senders available. Tanks Inc. sells one just not sure about the quality. Again I would welcome any feedback on this. Venting for filling. This is an area that has vexed me for quite a while. My problem is if I fill the tank in the morning when it’s cool out and drive right to the shop as the Florida day heats up there is enough expansion in the tank that it pushes raw fuel all the way through my expansion tank and it starts dripping out of my open air vent line. The first time it happened I pulled the gas cap and raw fuel came gushing out. I’m pretty much convinced that there is air trapped in the left side of the tank when filling and in fact on my 73 there is a 5/8 diameter ish nipple on the left side of the tank that I had blocked off years ago. It’s there for a reason and I think that’s the reason. Not sure how to solve that with the poly tank since there is no provision for a tube and there is no way to get a bulkhead fitting in there. The second vent is at the top of the tank and feeds into the fill neck to allow air to escape while filling. I Imagine it should be pretty easy to install a bulkhead fitting and hose when I cut the tank to install the pump. Drain plug. If I’m switching to an in tank pump I really would like to have the ability to drain the tank easily. Here again I’m thinking bulkhead fitting. That's about all I have at the moment. Derek

I really wish things would swing back towards the forums. I can't tell you how many times I know the answer to or could add to a post on FB but I don't since it really has no longevity. I always felt like I was adding to the overall knowledge base when I posted here. I can go on and on but I really hate it.

I've been very happy with Magnacore wires. I've had two custom sets made and never had an issue. I'm running an EDIS 6 coil with a crank trigger and MS3 FYI.

Nor mine but what a great build. Amazing engineering for sure.

Nice work. There is something satisfying for me in designing something in a solid modeling program and then walking out to the shop and actually bringing it to life. Or throwing it in the scrap bin because you had a better idea while machining it and decided to start over:)

I'm still here. I check in every morning to read the 3 or 4 new posts and then lament the death of forums like this. Facebook made a big dent but also the price of the cars has made the perfect combo of too expensive for the initial buy in and the "should I really be cutting into this series 1 to put in this V10". MONZTER's return and posts is the most enjoyable HybridZ reading I've had in a while.

Looks good. It's amazing how much stuff I ended up doing in house because outsourcing small runs became totally impracticle.

WOW talk about a blast from the past. Welcome home.

Thanks. You can't beat the Honda valve train parts and engineering.

Being as I have a Speedhut GPS Speedo I haven't even thought about it:)

So I'm going to be "that guy" that points out that's a caliper and not micrometer. Also you really need a good micrometer and standards to ensure you have good numbers. I highly recommend you take the crank to a machine shop and have it checked. I like digital micrometers but I always have the appropriate standard handy to make sure noting has electronically drifted.

Well as I always say, "no kill like overkill". I always look at this stuff from a risk standpoint. If you are qualified to setup a new LSD and ring and pinion then there is minimal risk. If you have to send it out well then there's one level of risk. That was part of my decision to go with a newer used Subaru R180. It also comes down to driving style. beat the crap out of it on every shift (I approve) then you would want to overbuild.