grannyknot

Have got a bunch of stuff done since my last post, installed the TTT offset tierods to compensate for the the lowered steering rack, Built the engine and transmission mounts and modified the crossmember, So here is the room left to play with, about a 1/2" between the top of the engine and the hood and about the same with the oil pan and Xmember, Built a skid plate to protect the oil pan, Lower radiator mounts are finished, and have finished installing the electric power steering,

The 1st pic is what was cut out of the steering/pedal box, 2nd is the bracing around the hole that I added, while the paint was off I also added some key welds where previously there was only spot welds. There is a middle shaft on the 240's, I used the splined section of that to weld onto the Saturn input shaft, the Saturn output shaft is coupled with a simple sleeve and 4 grade 8 bolts to the cut off end of the stock middle steering shaft. Once you get down to your steering/pedal box come back and have a look at the pics in post #27 again, it will make a lot more sense.

I have almost completed the Saturn Vue electric assist steering in my 240Z, just waiting on the wiring kit from ebay Bruno, I had to cut and modify the steering shaft/pedal box to fit it in and then reinforce the box to stiffen it back up, the pics will explain it better then me. The unit weighs 14lbs and then add a couple more for bracing and a u joint, so far I have $144.00 in to it, looking forward to trying it out in parking maneuvers.

Did you do the standard Rbryant washer fix on your OBX or are you using the stock washers?

I'm with FricFrac, you need more then inspiration, you need a solid car. If that is the visible rust then the stuff you are going to find when you really start digging is going to stop you in your tracks. Here is a Z I had before I started work on it, I thought it would be pretty straight forward, Here is what I really had,

I had to lower my steering rack to fit in the engine that I'm installing, without these- my bump steer was crazy, with the off set tie rods from TTT I have the bumpsteer down to couple of mm from normal driving height to fully bottomed out. Mine is an extreme case but all you are trying to do with the off set tie rods is make sure your lower control arms are parallel to the tie rods. And yes you do have to drill out the steering knuckle with the drill that comes with the tie rods. Not parallel, Parallel

The site looks great and the range of products, but there is no way of contacting you through the website unless you purchase something first. I need to know how much the shipping will be before I purchase.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/103344-280zxt-stub-axle-cv-swap/ http://zhome.com/rnt/FordPower/HalfShaft.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/52838-83-280zx-turbo-half-shaft-cvs/

You'll find them here and a few that are similar, http://kyushashoes.com/

Extraordinary work. Did start out thinking you would replace so much? You'll have a brand new Z by the time you're done!

Have a look at this site, the wealth of knowledge about painting and autobody is very impressive. A lot of the guys answering questions actually run their own paint shops and there is no attitude to new guys. http://www.autobody101.com/forums/index.php?sid=f044bf1f351a02abe241234902095df9

Privacy , protection of some kind, strange place for it and it doesn't look stock, maybe a previous owner tried dual exhaust and thought that bolt needed heat protection for the rubber bushing?

The wiper linkage is one of the most neglected parts on these cars, to get it to work the way it did when new you need to dissemble the entire linkage, clean 40 yrs of gunge off the moving surfaces, make some new felt gaskets that surround the ball joints then lubricate it. When you're done it will turn with very little effort, I'm sure there threads in the archives here about the procedure and if not here then there are some on ClassicZcar.

With Z's as with many other cars from that era, the condition of the car is way more important, engines can be had, bought or built. A Z in okay shape is months and months of hard work better than a crap Z. Nothing kills enthusiasm faster than rust.

I have finally got to the fun part of the build, just about to start making decisions on the placement of the engine/transmission. The engine is a 3.5L slanted straight six. Does it matter if the weight of the engine is taken by the crossmember or the frame rail? Will it change the center of gravity? I'm just trying to keep my options open and would appreciate any input. Thanks, Chris The engine on the right is the new one.

Very nice, looking pretty badass. When did you get those louvered lids, don't tell me you had those at ZCON and I didn't notice them.

There are some serious body panel adhesives these days available at an autobody supply store but since it is your hood I would be temped to also mount it with some flush head bolts and adhesive. The thought of your hood flying off to Kansas at high speed is not a good one.

I started with a .040" over L28, flat top pistons, 9.5:1 comp., N42 head heavily ported,polished and matched, mild cam, Pertronix in the distributor, single ign. coil. With ZTherapy SU's, 32 degrees all in at 2600 rpm, it pulled 188hp at the rubber of the rear wheels, then I went with SK/OER triples, DCOE 40's,36 chokes, there was a definite power increase but after a year an half of tweeking up and down the anal retentive side of me wanted a tune that didn't change with the temperature so now I'm trying to figure out FI and megasquirt. You are missing 30hp somewhere, as mentioned above verify your timing, your cam profile and your ACJ's.

I only dabbled with triples for a year or so but isn't your air corrector jet way too small in relation to the main? By the general rules of sizing your ACJ should be 215-220

Why autometer? Speedhut has a lot more selection of different styles of faceplates, script, needles and such. Also I think there is a group buy just getting started on this forum.

how about, Vanity

I did a 302 into a 74 Triumph TR6, it was rocket, scary fast. The design of the suspension and steering on those cars were ancient, that was the scary part, the car just was not designed for speed. The Z is great with speed as long as you can keep the air from getting underneath. Looking forward to seeing some pics of your project.

I would love to but you should see what they cost over here, that would be very expensive HP. I noticed that when I held it up to the rear quarter, luckily I only need the part right near wheel well lip so I should be able to make it work.

As I remember the 351w is a rather tall engine compared to the 302, you might have to cut a hole in the hood for the air cleaner. The 302 will fit perfectly with very few mods and of course the best thing about the Ford engines, the distributor is on the correct end of the engine