grannyknot

Just got the car back from the acid dippers, it's beautiful! Have started welding in patches, bracing and just started the stitch welding, This is what I gave them to clean, I'm never going back to sand blasting, the inside of the sub frame is just as clean.

If the metal is bare then it needs priming, painting then bed liner, if the metal is already sealed with paint the you can do bed liner over top.

Thanks boys, those are good products.

If you need a good mustache bar bolt I have spares that you can have for the cost of shipping, but your right the frame metal that the nut that the mustache bolt goes through is fairly thin, it probably bent before the bolt would. Might be better to leave the bolt in place and use it as a lever to straighten itself.

I turned up an aluminum adapter to join a bmw driveshaft to the r200 diff, I'm worried about the soft metal threads and not being able to torque the M8 bolts on the diff side. I can't mount a fixed stud because there would not be enough room to install, can't use nuts to sandwich the flange. I may have to remake the adapter in steel but want to try and make this work first if I can. So I'm thinking some kind of Helicoil or maybe an interference fit threaded insert. Would appreciate any advice, thanks, Chris

It's not bad though, I expected to see more damage, it's all very fixable. Did they actually warp the metal of the roof with the sand blaster? That's real shame, they should better.

You could just re adjust your stock T/C rod and see how that feels, for a DD you don't need fancy or expensive.

Hopefully these will help, sorry they are crooked but I was clicking the camera with my left hand,

Thanks, yes stock hinges It is this stuff I got from fedhillusa.com, it is called Cunifer brake line from Britain, It is a copper/nickle/steel alloy and is just the best stuff to work with, I didn't even use my tube bender the line is so easy to bend I just used bare hands. It takes nice tight corners and with just a bit of 0000 steel wool it comes up gleaming shiny. They sell it in 25ft rolls which is just enough to do all new brake lines but not the clutch line, I re-used one of the rear stock brake lines that was in good shape so I would have enough to do the clutch line. This is the engine test stand from last summer with all the uprights cut off, it will now be the car dolly until the drivetrain is back in The acid dippers usually do American classics and Hot Rods so I thought a little inexpensive insurance might help,

Very impressed, some seriously talented fabrication going on here. With the transmission tunnel kicked up like that will you have room for the stock console to fit in or are you making one?

Been busy, have now completed all the work that needed doing before the acid dip, all the patches and bracing have been made, 350Z seats installed, intergrated the Datsun and bmw wiring harnesses, ran a complete electrical test for all lights and megasquirt system, dash is complete now with the new gauges and wiring, all new brake, clutch and fuel lines have been built and the rotisserie is ready spin. Just have to lower the car onto the dolly and have it towed to the dippers. I'm hoping they will let me take some pictures of the car being lowered into the boiling acid bath but won't be surprised if there is some bs legal policy preventing it. This is what is left of the two harnesses that didn't make the cut This was during the process not the final look Stripped and ready for a well earned bath

The inside edge of the calipers sometimes rubs the the disc, a few strokes with a file will remove enough to make clearance. If more metal than that needs to be removed then the spacer is the problem.

Yeah, all the usual places, as mentioned, that pic of the P/S front rail looks like a patch has been welded on and it has rusted through as well. Once you start peeling back that Swiss cheese sheet metal I think you are going to find a lot of rust the sand blaster couldn't get to, prepare yourself How are the floor pans?

In that pic I posted there are no springs at all, the car is sitting on the bump stops. I will be installing Eibach lowering springs.

I bought a set of 16"x 8" Rota grids in Bronze with tires in similar condition this summer for $600

This is the last refurbished caliper I got from Rockauto, it's always worth dismantling their stuff to find out what you really bought.

That was 9yrs ago so you may not get a reply from the OP, to take apart the stock sliders you need to knock out the carriage bolts and there is a little tab that needs to be bent up or cut off, there is not much to it once you get it apart. The way the OP did it, it looks like he added a little more than an inch to the height to the bottom of the seat, you can just weld a bolt to the 350z slider at the front and a thin cross bar at the back and keep the head room.

Can anyone tell me if the MS2 PCB v3.57 has the provision to supply a pulse signal for a Speedhut speedometer? The signal required ranges from 1-100 volts, 1K - 250K pulses per mile. Thanks, Chris

Depends on what Z you are talking about, what year is your car?

I am just finishing up intergrating a bmw and Datsun wiring harness and I know what you mean with all the extra wires that aren't needed. There are general wiring kits like the ones that Painless Wiring offers but I doubt you will find a better quality one than the Datsun harness you have on hand, you just need to cut away the tape, remove the stuff you don't plan on using, clean it up, check all the connections for good contact, maybe add a few runs of heavy gauge wiring for stuff that you might add in the future and tape it back up. I included 4 Speedhut gauges in the dash wiring, easy peasy. I know it can look like a lot of work but once you get in there it is a very simple harness.

It has been done many times but as Neverdone says you will need to get a vented cap or make yours vented with a tiny drill. You just want enough fresh air coming in through the vent that will keep the fuel pump from crumpling the gas tank with suction and on the other side to release a little pressure on a warm day when the car is at rest. If you keep the 3rd fuel line that runs up to the engine and vent it into the air box then you won't have to vent the cap at all.

Spray can carb cleaner, paint thinner, Varsol, (just not water based cleaners) and a old tooth brush, blow it out after with compressed air, then oil it again. If you are not completely disassembling everything and feel there is still gunk that you didn't get you can run ATF as the tranny fluid for a day, then drain and fill with proper oil. ATF has alot of detergents and will scrub everything nicely, just don't push it, no hard shifts.

Sounds like plan, if you do end up doing it yourself make sure you have some scrap ss on hand to practice on, very different metal than mild steel. It heats up really fast, hangs onto the heat much longer and is so easy to blow holes in.

Magnificent sound! Sure put a smile on my face, that's got to feel pretty good after all those years of hard work, very well done.

You can use the 75/25 that you have now, it's just the welds will rust. Is it possible to pull them off and take them to a welding service that does SS?