grannyknot

Okay, at least you know what you are getting yourself into, SS wire would be better than mild steel wire, juice it up and do multiple passes, slow and deep.

Well, you can weld it and it will hold, the beads will rust but you know that. Are these after market engine mounts? I've never heard of SS being used for that purpose, SS isn't know for it's strength, it's hard but not that strong. I would turn up the juice and make sure you were really getting good penetration. An engine mount is a crucial, highly stressed assembly, can't say I'm very comfortable giving you this advise, personally I would re make them out of cold rolled plate. Better that then having that doubt every time you push the car hard that the welds might crack.

To use the 4.5" you have to gut the back of the housing but it looks more stock than the 4" The 3 3/8" works for the smaller gauges but also really have to gut the can.

I think I used a stubby box end wrench to get that one and you have to cram your hand in as far as possible.

When I installed my Technoversion R/T mount I had to cut off about 3/4"-7/8" off of the stepped poly snubber for the front of the R200 diff to come back up enough for the drive shaft to line up properly but after that there was no movement and more to the point, NO clunk, it was glorious!

That is the exact R/Tmount and snubber I used with stock rubber mount underneath.

Okay, I'm going to ask the dumb question, how are these better than average HG's? Higher compression?

Great idea, just spray it black before you install the cowl.

There is someone making new ones but I can't remember either but you could try these guys, https://www.zcarsource.com/wiper-motor-bag-240z-260z-280z_8_56821.html

Rubber bushings get a bad reputation I think because the first time we drove our Z's they handled like mush because of the 40 year old stock bushings in them, new rubber bushings are actually pretty firm and are great for a daily driver. After wading through most of those many many threads that Miles mentioned, this is the combination I came up with. An R/T mount for the front of the differential with a poly snubber at the top and stock rubber mount on the bottom, poly for the moustache bar, poly for all the sway bar mounts and the steering rack mounts, every other bushing is new stock rubber. It works for me, no hash ride or vibrations and crisp handling. Special note for the T/C rod bushings, I tried poly and the ball and socket and IMHO they are both for track cars. I went back to new rubber and love it.

Guys, while I'm sure a full, welded in roll cage/sub structure will stiffen the car, I'm just trying to find a firmer bake pedal. By backing up the firewall with support from the shock tower I'm pretty sure that will be enough to give a better feel to the brakes. What this mod is really trying to do is eliminate in a cost and weight effective way one of the many variables when changing the various brake components.

I agree so I hope I have addressed that with theses braces,

This was a wheel I had for a while but ended up selling it, MOMO Pototipo, made in Italy 03/85 This is the Personal, Emerson Fitipaldi wheel that is going on the next Z, made in Italy 04 /81,

That is why you pre load the brace against to M/C with the threaded rod so there is no movement to begin with, the shock tower, M/C and firewall sort of become one so when you push the brake pedal that force is spread out to the front suspension structure and the firewall resulting in less movement and hopefully a better brake pedal. Once that cap is tightened against the M/C there should be no movement between them.

Jon, I'm also going to be stitch welding all the major seams when the car comes back from the acid dippers so I'm hoping that will fix some of the flex. What kind of problems do you for see with the M/C?

HaHa, that's good one, that will never happen if it is left up to me. Flats on the cap? Oh I get it, the cap touching the end of the M/C spins freely, the flats are on the threaded rod right next to the cap for pre-load adjustment and the nut is for locking it in place.

In my on going efforts to build the perfect Z (for me) I thought I would have a go at firewall flex or that brake pedal that never really feels solid. Nothing new here just copying the principal of supporting the master cylinder - brake booster - firewall - brake pedal box. Hope this is of use to others.

The real reason I would like to install AN fittings is so I can replace all the rubber/Neoprene (EPDM or NBR) fuel lines with the newer PTFE / Teflon fuel lines, they don't emit fuel vapour, are not effected by all the additives that are in gasoline these days and are said not to degrade over time like regular fuel line. Do you think PTFE/Teflon hose will slip over the barbs of the fuel lines pictured in post#16 and be able to be sealed with a hose clamp or permanent pinch clamp or is the line just too ridgid?

Thanks SJ, I think you are right, Superduner, didn't mean to hijack. I'll start another thread. Chris

So I have been trying to figure out a way to install braces to the firewall but they end up being too elaborate and convoluted so I just tried something simple like the brace on the FRS link, just started on it this morning so it still looks pretty rough but I think it will do the job. I'll post more pics when it is cleaned up and installed.

Well, there does seem to be some options, the barbs on the ends of the steel fuel lines that come from the fuel rail are pretty short and stubby, I think I will only have one chance to get it right. Thanks for the ideas.

Trying to retrofit and older 80's fuel rail with 5/16" steel hose barbs and up date it to AN fittings, is there way convert without welding? All the AN fittings I see seem to be made only to lock onto PTFE/Teflon hoses. Thanks, Chris

Miles, SJ, this is great info, I have been through every brake thread on Hybridz a couple times and am still a bit confused. I have done the stock set up on my last 240, every part was brand new or rebuilt, no air in the system and the braking was just okay. My latest Z which is still all apart I'll be using, Toyota/vented up front, Maxima rear, SS braided lines, 15/16th Master with 280 booster, PV , all new hard lines and NAPA premium pads(hopping for a better cold bite) SJ, I never thought about the firewall flex, that would certainly add a springy feel, well now is the time to address it while the car is apart. I guess it will be easier to work from the engine bay side, there is lots of room next to the clutch master for a simple right angle brace and then a second one might be possible under the dash between the pedal box and the gas pedal linkage.

This is what I have been working on in the last couple weeks, because this engine is so tall I have no room to install a shock tower brace so will be adding some internal hidden bracing that should help stiffen things up. Nothing is welded in yet, just test fitting for when the car comes back from the acid dip.

Stock front - Maxima rear, 15/16 MC, stock booster: no better than stock and eliminated drum maintenance issues Toyota solid - stock drums, 15/16 MC, stock booster : no better than stock Toyota vented -stock drums, 15/16 MC, stock booster : no better than stock Toyota Vented - 240SX, 15/16 MC, stock booster: no better than stock Toyota solid - Maxima, 15/16 MC, stock booster: worse than stock Toyota solid - 240SX, 1 inch MC, 280Z booster: 280Z booster eliminated stiffness caused by the 1 in. MC. Bias = .66 front .34 rear. Average street brakes. Currently on my 240Z since 2009. Miles, did you measure the stopping distance with any or all of these combos or are you reporting what you felt?