grannyknot

Nissan still carries those C rings/circlips, just a couple of bucks. Glad you solved it.

Or you could go the other way and throw on a set of SU carbs, that really simplifies the wiring harness.

There are enough bends in that pipe to make the entire exhaust system for a Z. Nice find.

Well I looked where I last put them but they are not there, I know I have them just can't locate them at the moment. Sorry

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I forgot about this thread, I went ahead using the 75/25 with SS wire, completely different animal then welding carbon steel, took some playing around to keep from blowing holes.

The search function is your friend, there are at least 2 recent threads that cover everything.

Can you post the part number if you find a spring that will do the job? There are a lot of OBX owners that might benefit from this. Thanks

Litman, your most welcome and thanks, how are yours holding up, it's been a couple of years if I remember right? Any problems to report?

Got the exhaust system built, welded and hung last week, hopefully it won't be too loud but I really wanted to eliminate the back pressure that the stock exhaust had. The whole system is from Vibrant, 2 Ultra quiet straight through resonators welded together, 1in 2out ultra quiet straight through muffler, 4 mandrel bent 3" pipes and the collector I made.

Thanks, I appreciate it but I stole the idea from Litman who did it a few years back.

Just for reference, here is that same panel NOS from Nissan, looks like your guy nailed it.

I know how to mig weld carbon steels and my gas tank is 75% Argon 25% CO2 but I thought I would try my hand at welding together a new SS exhaust system for the Z. I have the ER308L stainless steel wire already, do I have to change the tank over to 98% Argon/2% CO2 or can I get by with the 75/25 ? Thanks, Chris

Someone was asking for pics of the shifter are bushing so I'll just add them here,

Strong Arm 4477N10 Gas Charged Lift Support 10176N10W I ordered 2 of these from these guys, https://www.liftsupportsdepot.com/strong-arm-4477n10-gas-charged-ball-socket-lift-struts-supports-10176n10w/ and a pak of 4 ball studs, the struts are 43lb and hold the hood any position 16" or higher, below that and the weight of the hood takes over and it closes. I'm pretty happy with it, here are a few more pics,

Well I have finally finish installing the drive line, engine mounts, transmission mount, drive shaft and diff are all in and I think, are perfectly a lined. As best as I can measure it I think I'm within half a degree in both axis. So hopefully the drive line will be vibration free Also got the oil cooler plumbed in, the accelerator linkage installed and air filter sorta finished. As much as I hate K&N filters I bought one anyway, after spending lots of money and time trying build or adapt a paper filter airbox that just didn't work. The K&N filter will get me on the road until I can figure something else out. This is the adapter I built to join the bmw drive shaft/CV joint to the Nissan rear end and it is as near a copy as I could make to the one Ron Taylor amde for his bmw/datsun swap. Lokar cable, Got all of the fixings for a 3" SS Vibrant exhaust system, Finished building the battery box, Got rid of the torsion spring hood opener and installed hydraulic springs,

Which begs the question, have you figured out yet what the magic number will be yet?

Once you get the frame off the gasket you may find some thin rubber shims glued to the gasket on the back two corners, the rounded corner and the sharp corner at the top, SAVE THOSE SHIMS and make note of which corner they came off of. You may find none or as many as 3, make sure they go back in the same place when you go to re install the new gasket with a layer of weather strip sealant between each one. Well actually a layer of sealant between everything, I can tell you what a pain in the ass it is to have to take those windows out after everything has been put back together because you skipped a step. Driving rain storms and the carwash find every little gap.

You and everyone else, hard items to find. I think someone makes new aftermarket covers now, I`ll have a look and see if I can find them.

These are the guys I ordered my rebuild kit from, http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/manual_transmission_overhaul_kits/nissan_f5w71_overhaul_kit.html It was a good quality kit but as New Zed says you might want to try some of the different oils first, they can make a big difference. The guy I bought my 5 spd from said that it had to be rebuilt, so I rebuilt it but I found nothing that needed to be replaced. Bearings were good, so were the syncros.

Have you got a friend or a friends Dad who could go by the yard and strike a deal with him? Having explosive anger myself I know how both of you feel, he probably regretted immediately. Or he could just be a dick.

Grind them flat, drill them out and replace with a bolt with a head not a stud. Weld the head on the inside of the sugar scoop.

Looks like you found a real body guy, that's getting harder. While you are getting all the rust repaired you might want to add two of these little channels that take the run off water from the edge of the hatch and dump it off the car instead of that water dumping onto the back sill. If Datsun had put done this there would be a lot less rust in that area. Oh the car is tipped on its side on a rotisserie in those pics.

Beautiful work as always, would mind mentioning what you Mig set up is, wire size, settings and that sort of thing? Thanks

Thanks, so far I'm really happy with the Speedhut gauges, they are 4.5" and 2 5/8th. I built the power steering up out of parts from the wreckers and 1/8th steel plate, I have a detailed DIY description here, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/56267-new-power-steering-option/ The bmw engine is about 90lbs more than the L engine so I thought it would be nice for parking lots and if I can get my wife to drive it.