I run a stock bottom end and dyno at 422hp and have run mid to low 11sec 1/4s for a couple of years. I've run out of fuel flow or I'd be up around the 480rwhp. I might be at the edge of what the L can take but quite a few others are up around the same level with stock bottom ends.
1983 280zxt 2+2
-engine= stock bottom end, 185km on the clock
-turbo= jy h-trim t04b compressor, t3 .82 stage 3 hotside
-Exhaust system - 3" as well as muffler bypass behind rear wheel
- How much boost- 21-23psi
-ECU= I ran the time in my sig with a nistuned z31 ecu/z32 maf, i dyno'd with an infiniti m30 ecu/z32 maf
- autospeed dc motor controller with an m15 and a m10 nozzle methanol setup.
-CC injectors - z31 ecu/440cc - latest setup = m30ecu/nippon denso injectors flow tested@670cc
-IC - dual grand national cores welded together with 2.5" piping both sides
-HP= 422hp on a mustang dyno @ 21-22psi
I should mention that I have a built cyl head, but I'm not sure on the specs.
I get about 5psi by 3k with max setting hitting around 4k.
In my opinion the L28ET is sufficient to run any zcar into the 10's with the earlier cars having very low 10sec et's available to them with very little work.
what i meant was hall effect? sine wave? stuff like that. can it be modified to accept other signals? i believe that code was able to use the 2.3L wasted spark config as well as the syty/sunbird dizzy signal.
what kind of signal(s) are needed for the ecu to be happy? crank + cam? stock cas? what kind of datalogging do you use? any extra pwm outputs on that ecu?
The 280zxt doesn't need a computer to control it. It needs turbo modulator with a hose connected to the manifold. If you have the safety switch worked out then you are good to go. The other wires are for the kickdown switch which isn't NEEDED but is for downshifting when the pedal is on the floor and you're below a certain speed. If you have a nonturbo auto you will also have a lockup solenoid. Your transmission should be checked out if it's slipping, it could be a number of things causing that.
Application: street/strip (mostly)
Engine: l28et
Turbo: T3/T4 (H-Trim/.82 stage 3)
Boost: 18-26 psi
Fuel system: z31 ecu
Air fuel ratio: ~10.6-11.6/1
Spark plug: NGK bpr 8
Timing at max boost: ~24@5.2k/27 6.5k+
Meth injection: Autospeed diy controller kit
Start injection at 2.5vdc/~3psi (maf based) max at 4.5vdc/~15psi
Nozzle size: M10 (10 GPH; 630ml/min) + m15
Fluid: 100% meth (hic)
100% water will require the least amount of tuning and fluid. More meth requires more fluid but also yields the greatest power. IMO it is a small price to pay compared to an extensively built engine/DBB Turbo/MLS headgasket/etc etc. Methanol is very forgiving with regards to rich afr's. I didn't lose power until I got to 10.6 afr's and didn't really gain anything leaner than 11.5-7. I have my tune setup to rely on the meth to keep the engine together. I watch the wideband closely and when the boost is set on high, I always test the pump before boosting.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/The-Fastest-Mile-25679-on_163711.htm?ref=dc19c322-112d-4e2f-af82-9a880005c6ba
Saw this linked on another board. Gotta have some steelish 'nads for that ride.
Agreed. You want to make sure your ecu can drive that injector and I would buy another/larger nozzle for your hp level. I would at minimum use the m10 and m6 supplied and you might find you need more.