FlatBlack

Did you rebadge it as a 240Z? I can't see the sides well in the picture. You need a 240/early 260 Bumper if you have 240 badges on it!

I just helicoiled my P79 a few weeks ago, if I make it out to the shop tonight I'll get the package and tell you what I used.

Dave, I-540 is driven by 99% idiots. There are "Slower traffic stay in the right lane" signs EVERY mile, and I always find myself trapped in at some point. I had never flashed my lights at anyone before moving up here, it is simply rediculous. On a lighter note, I was heading up to Rogers the other day in the S30, and saw a S130 up ahead in the right lane. I downshifted into 4th to get up next to him. Usually the 280ZX drivers up here don't pay me much mind but I usually give a wave just to check. The guy's eyes lit up when he heard/saw my car, and switched lanes to follow me for a bit. Nice to see fellow Z heads up here.

I painted my car to match my dog.

Call me crazy, and I know there are way better cars than this, but I've loved Vettes since I was 8. I even went with my Dad to the 50th Anniversary of the Corvette in Nashville in 2003. And I believe I can actually afford one of these when I finish school. I want a murdered out [all black] LS7 Z06 Corvette, and I think 500 NA pushrod-powered horses will be plenty for me

Ah - I missed that, in my mind there were 3 long bolt shafts sticking up which *might* prevent it from rotating. Attworth - sorry to threadjack. Any updates?

Geez... I feel a bit sheepish. The torque spec comment was completely daft, I have no defense for that one. The 'rotate' comment - If you try and rotate the head like this with head bolt shafts still in there: Then I *assumed* that you wouldn't be able to budge it much, or any at all, but as none of the L28s that I have taken apart have had broken head bolts, this statement was completely unfounded. Please delete it from the thread so it will not show up in the search archives, I will think before posting about things that I don't have experience with next time. Thanks BRAAP

He can't rotate it if the head bolt shafts are still in there. Did you see what they were torqued to?? that sounds rediculous. Good luck. [ARP head studs rock ]

I agree, keep looking. Automatic, MSA type 3 kit and a sunroof. Run away!

Hello Mobious. When you run a shaved manifold and do not use an Idle Air Control, the car will not idle or idle really really low at colder temperatures. I ran a shaved manifold for a while in Baton Rouge but didn't realise it affected startup until I moved up here to Arkansas and experienced really cold weather. Everything else held constant, and you don't have any other issues [grounds and other things listed above] than you can do a couple of things. You can adjust your throttle body plate stop so more air will get through, but this will make your car idle really high when it warms up [i prefer a 700-800 RPM idle when warm]. I have come up with a really ghetto solution for this but do not want to post my shame here on hybrid. I have told someone else what I did through PMs if you care to know. It involves vacuum lines, not a big deal. Good luck, enjoy your Spring Break! *EDIT* Alright, honestly I didn't see all the pictures before I posted. You have the IAC sitting on top of your shaved manifold, not hooked up to anything but the EV connector. Whats the point of a shaved manifold, brotha? This is my current set up on my old motor: http://s254.photobucket.com/albums/hh81/flatblack280/Shaved%20Intake/?action=view&current=100_2475.jpg

My P79 had two broken studs in it when I put it in the car the first time. I just wanted the car back together, so I waited until I pulled the head for a new head gasket to fix the broken studs. I'm not sure if this is the 'proper' way to do it, but I helicoiled both studs, and I have not had an issue with them. No exhaust leaks at all. I was also worried about expanding the hole, but there was enough metal to do it.

Thank you John. I do appreciate the input. I will keep the current setup and get more drive time on it. I know my driving could use some improvement, and I need to know the upper end of the car's abilities and characteristics. I need to search more thouroughly - My buddy said that there is a thread on larger rear SBs and or removing them.

What? were you lifting it properly? I've pulled 3 L28s since August with the same tab no problem. Try using a spare or adjusting your mount point. Good luck! *edit* - Are you sure you have everything unbolted?

I got my studs locally at an autozone, I could only get one or two wheel nuts on my Rotas with the stock studs. I wouldn't have even moved the car in the driveway with that little thread in the nut.

Do you see the two vertical bolt holes that are immediately to the right of the Cyl 1 spark plug? There should be a tall plate that attaches right there and is actually taller than the valve cover. I have mine off for now [because it looks awkward] and I just put my new motor in and don't need to take it out anytime soon [i hope]. I assume thats what the PO did to your motor. *edit* I decided not to be lazy and go to my photobucket account haha: http://s254.photobucket.com/albums/hh81/flatblack280/?action=view&current=100_2695.jpg

The Suspension setup in my 1978 280Z: * Flat Top L28, Stock '78 5 Speed * Stock '78 R200 * Tociko 185/200 Springs, HP Struts * Stock Caliper/Drum setup * NO Bump Steer Spacers * New Ball Joints * Polyurethane Bushings all around * Rota RB 15x8s with 225/50/15s, on 1/4" spacers [only in the front] * Larger Front Sway Bar - Size ??? [i purchased this from a member and did not ask the actual size, here is the link: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=145663&highlight=front+sway+bar] * Stock Rear Sway Bar * Rear Strut Tower Brace My Problem: I have been going on 'Sunday Cruises' with several car buddies the past couple of weekends. We have been going on local two-lane roads that wind and twist and rise and fall, very good for driving. Last Sunday, I had the same setup as listed above, but with the stock front sway bar. The car felt pretty well balanced, but I was noticing the bumpsteer. Otherwise, the front did not plow out at all and the rear felt fine. I installed the new front sway bar this Saturday, and we went out again yesterday on a different route. The roads were somewhat smoother, and I did not notice much bumpsteer. I can't tell you if that was due to the smoother roads or the sway bar. Before we left, I took a couple of hard 90* turns in the city at about 15-20 MPH. The back end came out a bit. Definitely controllable, but this usually didn't happen. While on the cruise, the Z's rear seemed a bit more loose than usual. It only came out twice, both we off-throttle downshifts into turns. THe first time I was on a downhill hairpin 60* turn to the left, and when I dropped into second at about 40 MPH the back slid out. Once again, controllable, but not what I want. I took most of the turns that day at higher speeds but was driving conservatively because I was unsure of what the rear was going to do. I took it to a large open parking lot afterwards and ran the crap out of it. I was worried about the rear coming out at speed on a corner, so I would get up to about 30, start turning, and then yank the wheel. The rear did come out once or twice, but only a little, and it was easily brought back in. Questions raised/solution possiblilities: * I am wondering if I am reading too much into what I am feeling from the suspension, I never once felt the car leave my control. * Would anyone recommend removing the stock rear sway bar and running nothing, or putting a thicker one in? I have talked to people about this and have got mixed reactions. I want the car to be more stable in high speed turns. * I could also go back to the stock front sway bar, but the new bar has reduced body roll and I would like to keep it. I would love to hear all suggestions though.