Leon

Here are my settings, using only camber plates. The car handles perfectly to my taste, breakaway is very neutral. I don't have any rear toe adjustment otherwise I would've dialed it down.

Sounds great!

Feel free to create a post with specific questions. If you're after finding a mechanic, then I'm of no help unfortunately.

Right on, I've been running the Works Mitsubeastie in Lemons. It's slow as hell but the most fun I've ever had on track! I'll be sure to say hi if I ever see an S130 in the paddock. I may come up to Sonoma next Saturday for the Speed Festival in case you plan to be around.

Nice, I've run Lemons four times now but all at Sonoma. We keep wanting to build a car and run more of the West Coast races but having the time to do so has prevented such ventures. Came really close to buying a $400 IROC Z Camaro lol! The E36 is probably the perfect chassis for low-buck enduros. It's cheap, easy to work on, has great parts availability, and is fun to drive. It would be cool to see the ZX at a track event sometime. If there are ever any old Z's at the days I go to, they're always S30s. I run mostly with NASA but also Trackmasters and Speed Ventures. Once in a while, I'll do a day with some other random club. Let us know if you sign up for any!

This is likely my favorite current build thread, really enjoying the deep dives into everything from gearboxes to ECU definition files. Your pragmatism and ingenuity are fun to watch. Keep up the good work and keep sending it.

I didn't cut any coils off, it turns out the 260Z spring perch is lower than the 240Z. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/38373-240z-eibach-springs-in-260z/

Rob at Z Car Garage in San Jose is a dealer. The first picture is outside his shop and the black car is the OSG build they did.

Nice job Ross, looking good!

Congrats Takashi, a big step!

Thanks Brady, appreciate the kind words!

I don't have any personal experience but there's a few running around with NASA on the West Coast that I've seen. They seem pretty quick and fairly inexpensive to run. https://nasaspeed.news/columns/class-syllabus/spec-z/ https://www.turnology.com/news/valkyries-350z-wins-at-the-25-hours-of-thunderhill/

Looks like it's time for an update! I finally installed the struts we sectioned last year, got the ride height and alignment settings dialed, and installed the Watanabes. The ride is so much better now that I have some bump travel in the suspension, this was a huge step to refining the car. I installed fresh seals and bearings but the brakes were swapped over from the old uprights as I didn't find any good rear disk kits that fit 15's. It would've been nice to make my own conversion but I just haven't had the time. Alignment spec, for my record keeping. I'd prefer less rear toe but otherwise it's surprisingly even! Getting closer to being "done"... Next on the list of cosmetic updates is installing that NIB Nismo Compe steering wheel handle. There are plenty of little things to do and loose ends to tie up. For the sake of not forgetting: change the oil and check valve adjustment reseal carbs and intake manifold, smoke test indicates possible leak at cold start units and carb-to-manifold gaskets fabricate and install longer throttle rod for throttle cable, set pedal stop connect manifold vacuum to distributor install Mallory FP install wideband and finish the tune fix tach and speedo tidy up distributor wiring fix tail-lamp bulb housing install a PCV catch can replace the water bottle radiator expansion tank with something more fitting install a speaker so I can listen to the radio install misc missing fasteners on bumper trim, front air dam, interior trim replace center console connect cold-start mechanism and re-mount choke bracket (if I need to) track down some sweet period-looking bucket seats put together a rear disk kit for 15's other things My buddies were egging me on after seeing the car to install a BRE trunk spoiler, painted black to match the front air dam. I'd never intended to put one on the car but I'll have to at least consider it.

The Cal Poly Car Club is still around from what I know but it's probably just be a small group of college kids. There might still be a Z-guy in the group.

Great detective work! I've played with ECU mapping on newer cars but never completely from scratch. I'm impressed by your efforts.

Nice to see you back at it again! I highly recommend making a closing plate for that notched frame-rail. Otherwise, that structure and material is doing next to nothing for you. Here's a detailed engineering drawing:

"180° headers" on a cross-plane crank V8 change the sound due to those V8s being odd-fire engines, i.e. there is a point in the firing order where bank one fires twice and where bank two fires twice. 180° headers pair cylinders in a way that alternates exhaust pulses evenly between bank one and bank two to even out the scavenging effect. The L6 only has one bank of cylinders so getting even scavenging is not nearly as big a challenge. It becomes more of an exercise in getting the desired tuned length of primary vs being able to package it all. There are more ways to screw it up than getting it right. People don't typically don't build custom headers just for sound which is probably why you haven't seen every configuration you can think of being built. Feel free to build a set and show us what they sound like.

The vast majority of Watanabes are cast, not forged.

I bought four Bilstein gland nuts for 240Z tubes (30mm dampers) from AJUSA in 2014 but I remember them saying they were the last ones they had. Not sure if Bilstein Germany has restocked the supply chain since then. The part number I used (provided by John Coffey) was B4-B30-U232-B1

3000GT Bilsteins fit fine and allow for plenty of room to section (as do the VW Rabbit ones), it's the gland nut that's the problem. I'm not sure you can get them anymore.

Dynamat removal... fun times!

I've got a 280ZX 3.54 R180 with axles (clip-in vs early bolt-in style) but shipping would suck. I'd do $100+whatever shipping will cost. The diff is tight with no clunks, came out of my 260Z. Replaced it with an R180 LSD (that's clunky as hell).

Same, I'm interested in the 240SX brakes and 240Z coilover sleeves.

Rob at Z Car Garage is great but don't expect it to be cheap.

Totally agree, try it out!