Leon

Needle valve is stuck. Tap the offending carb's float chamber with the handle of a screwdriver and see if it helps.

Swap in the R200.

Right, he's not very clear, and I don't think he even implies that R180 and R200 input flanges interchange. With that said, that site is more of a primer for those starting to learn about Zs. There is a good bit of misleading and erroneous information on his site, so don't treat it like gospel. Putting in an R200 requires zero "custom" work. It's bolt-in as long as you have an R200 mustache bar.

Cool Jim, it would be fun to chat. Taking the Z to JCCS is in the plans, I'll just have to talk it over with the fiancee (will be "the wife" by JCCS time!). I've actually been selling off my rims, I had 4 sets of 14" rims at one point! I still have 2 sets of slots, one set of 14X6 and the other 14X7. The 7-inchers don't fit within the stock fenders though. The funny thing is, is that the other set I have is almost just as you describe! Here they are mounted on my first 240Z: Besides those, I also have a set of 14X6 turbine-style wheels. I just wish there were decent tires for 14 and 15-inch tires. The lack of tire choices have me looking at 16s. I'll probably be boring and go with another set of Panasports unless I find a wheel that works well with the green color and vintage motif of the car.

Fully charge the battery before running the car.

Amen! "Hey honey, check this out! Pretty cool, right?" "Get off your forums and spend some time with ME!"

Nice work Ray, you sure are ambitious!

Where exactly does the guide clearly state that an R200 input flange is interchangeable with an R180?

Sweet!!!

Is your MJLJ set up yet? What do you have left before "take-off"? I remember reading that you were close to finished.

I like the 14-inchers, wish there were decent tire options out there. I will hopefully be at Long Beach this year. I went last year in the orange car and I don't think I want to put myself through that again... It would be awesome to meet up, will you be taking the Z to the show?

Hey Matt, I wouldn't say timing is optimized. My map is MAP based (ha!). I did have it on a dyno and hashed out a decent WOT curve. I also did a little bit of part-throttle tuning, but not much as my mixture wasn't close yet. I'm trying to get the mixture where I want it and then I'll do another dyno day.

Awesome work, Jim! The Z looks great, just replace those wheels and you're all set.

It was nice out yesterday so I finally decided to take a decent driving video of the Z. The tune is acceptable but I want leaner AFRs across the board while maintaining crisp throttle response. When going to WOT, I made sure to stomp on the pedal. No feathering the throttle here! Current setup: - L24/E88 longblock (stock cam) - 280Z 5-speed & 3.9 R200 (open) - Nissan Motorsport header into 2" duals - EDIS/Megajolt ignition - 40DCOE Webers (120 main, 120 air, 03 e-tube by Keith Franck, H221 idles/"hypojets" by KF, 53 pumps & zero bleed) I'm planning to drop the idles (to H18) and mains (to 115) and possibly go to a 4-hole (O4) e-tube if I experience throttle-response issues. I also have stiffer internal throttle return springs in the garage waiting to be installed. I'm hoping that those will completely solve my return-to-idle issues.

A have a very straight 240Z center valence, but do not have the sides. I also have a complete early 260Z front valence but the center section is not as straight. I'm in San Bruno... PM if interested.

Yeah, I believe the Nissan Comp (and its copies) were designed for 45s. Maybe some Mikuni manis too. At least I remember reading that... The Cannon definitely has a lot of extra material. I enjoy incremental builds, iterating and seeing the improvements. At this point, I'd like to put the engine together keeping the P90 unported. I can always pick up another head and play with it, while having the car on the road at the same time.

The rear shouldn't get nearly as hot as the front.

As far as LSA goes, personally I don't care about it. If you know the important bits (valve events, lift), LSA doesn't really tell you much more... It's really used more for degreeing than describing a cam's characteristics. Valve overlap degrees will tell you way more than LSA...

That's why I liked the Vintage Connections tool, got 3 sets of dies (insulated, non-insulated, mini).

FYI: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/47279-l28-toasting-my-240z-clutch-2.html#post415974

Harbor Freight? Ugh... I bought their crimper plus extra dies, but haven't used them yet. It feels like a great piece though. Only thing that's missing is a backstop, but that can be added.

Cool, no problem. Just sounded a bit sketchy, especially considering you're new. Great looking project!

I've done just fine with my camera and Microsoft Excel... And of course, build threads! Are we sure this guy's not a spammer?

My first thoughts are that you typed in the cam specs wrong. By those numbers, your intake/exhaust duration is 62/318. Hmmm... I'm guessing: EVO=69BBDC EVC=31ATDC IVO=31BTDC IVC=69ATDC That gives 280deg duration with 62deg of overlap. I'm with JeffP regarding lift and duration.

Overpriced? Did you pay less for your ratcheting crimper?