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Everything posted by Leon
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Is My Ride Height Fixed?
Leon replied to mal_tiempo's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
If the above ideas aren't the problem, did you check if you were already sitting on the bumpstops with the car on the ground? -
240Z Chassis prep / reinforcements
Leon replied to Kurai's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Very nicely and efficiently done, thanks for the shots! -
FWIW, I just ordered mine from Nissanparts.cc for $25.10 shipped.
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What, do they usually sell for more than $25? I guess I should buy them all up then, muahahaha!
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As the title says, I need a 19 tooth speedo pinion gear (white) for my 5-speed. I want to see if anyone has one lying around before buying new ($25). Just need the gear, not the housing. Thanks!
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FYI, the early 260Z front strut housings are unique, i.e. slightly different from the 240Z and all other models. I'd recommend either replacing yours with an early 260Z piece, or replacing both front strut housings with 240Z units. Mixing 240Z and early 260Z front struts will make for an uneven side-to-side ride height, the difference is about 1/2" from what I remember.
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Looking good Matt! If you're utilizing a hard rev-limiter, there are extra steps as you've noted. The Megajolt website has good info on that as well.
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What you're doing is checking speedo accuracy. What Gollum is telling you, is to check the speed of the car (using GPS) versus your tach. Using the calculator that Gollum linked to earlier, 4000rpm in 4th gear (Z transmissions typically have 1:1 4th) gives you 81mph if you have a 3.7 rear diff. Your pics look like an R180 to me.
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Both length and diameter play a role. I've helped design and test intake and exhaust pipes and the results corroborated the theory. Length is a great predictor of torque peak. I can see diameter playing a larger role if you're using Helmholtz theory which is based on overall volume (length and diameter dependent). Generally speaking, altering runner lengths to change torque peak and altering diameter to maximize the ram effect but minimize pumping losses is the more logical way to design the system, to me at least. However, as always, there's more than one way to solve a problem. What exactly is the "Chrysler formula", out of curiosity? My model is based on simple wave physics.
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Anyone ordered from www.nissanpartszone.com ever or lately?
Leon replied to motomanmike's topic in Non Tech Board
I've ordered from them multiple times, without issue (besides the aforementioned "NLA" notice after placing an order). However, my last order from them was probably close to a year ago. -
Damn, you're good! Yes, Daimler SP250, that's exactly right. Great info on the Rolls!
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Thanks Bill, I was awestruck when I first saw the car after their work on it. Hope to see that RB of your's soon! I appreciate it, Clive! I plan to pick up a nice early 260Z pretty soon from a former college prof of mine. I've got the details on the previous page of this thread, if you want more info! I'm planning to get the car in a few weeks, just need to figure out the truck & trailer situation.
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Thanks Alex! Sorry to hear about the dog, hope all is ok there. If you want to cancel the order, I can sell you some used valves from my E31 head if you'd like. I don't think I'll ever use them. Just keep plugging away, an hour here and there, and that Z will get back on the road!
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Thank you! It was bugging me that I forgot what it was!
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Long-time, no-update! My 240Z shell is sold an awaiting the buyer to come up from LA with his truck and trailer! It should be gone after Christmas. This means I'm getting much closer to picking up that green 260Z! Now I just have to get the ball rolling on how exactly that will happen... Meanwhile, here's the long-awaited JCCS, Part 2. It'll be a shorter one as I need to do another Photobucket photo-dump. Here's the Z in its spot the following morning, after our arrival on Thursday night. We used Friday as a day to have some fun in SLO. I went to school at Cal Poly, so we made sure to hit all of the old spots and visit campus to marvel at the fantastic new gym facilities that they just finished. But before doing all of that, I did a quick search online to see if there were any detail shops around that could brighten up the finish on the Z. I found this little place called the "Central Coast Auto Spa" which got good reviews. I gave them a call, and they very luckily had time in their schedule that day to give the Z some attention! I drove over to a tow-yard in which the CC Auto Spa owners rented out a little space. A situation like this can seem a little iffy, but these guys were awesome!!! They're a couple of brothers who have experience detailing all sorts of cars, even high-end classics like an M-B 300SL Gullwing that they did shortly before I found them. I told them what I wanted and they were super enthusiastic as they'd never done an old Z before. I left the car with them and walked to downtown with my fiancee. I made sure to also stop by the British Classic Car shop in town, the guys there are always welcoming and always have something cool in the shop. That day was no different! Side of the shop Something that looked like a Triumph but wasn't, don't remember what it was though... Ford Anglia E494A Just a typical twin-cam Honda engine... ...shoved inside an old-school Mini Countryman! Nice, eclectic group here: an old Lancia (or something else, can't remember), nice Healey 3000, and FJ40 Land Cruiser And an old Rolls Royce (?) going through a rebuild These weren't all the "cool" cars in the shop, but the ones I uploaded pics of. I love that place! A little while later, finally got the call from the guy telling me to head down. They put in something like 4 hours of work and they charged a very reasonable rate. I loved their work and enthusiasm these guys put into their work. You could tell they genuinely enjoyed it! I was stunned. The final results spoke for themselves: My god, the Z has never looked this good! I was pumped!!! We went to campus, stopped by the old neighborhoods, had some amazing Thai food at our favorite place and called it a night. After all, we have to get up at 4am the next morning... better get packing. 'Til next time, enjoy the holidays guys!
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I've not heard of that method of intake tuning. Length is the critical feature here, with diameter being secondary. Wave tuning depends on tract lengths, because it's the wavelength (and travel time) that determine a "tuned" rpm. I'm not sure what you're going off of, but a tuned length at 5300rpm would be more like 27 inches for the 2nd harmonic! Because of size constraints, intakes (and exhaust manifolds) are typically tuned for the 3rd or 4th harmonic. I've dumped a bunch of info on tract tuning on this site if you want to delve deeper. Once you have a tuned length, set the diameter big enough as to not choke the flow but small enough as to maximize the kinetic "ram effect" at high RPM. Valve timing changes the amount of time the wave has to travel inside the intake. Longer valve open times give the wave more time to travel down, reflect and come back to the intake valve, so the resonance tuning gains are realized at higher RPM, and vice versa for shorter duration. Oh, got a bit off-topic didn't we...
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Looks like you might be right, I hadn't heard of that before. Learn something new everyday! However, an L26 would possibly also need to be notched on the intake side when using the larger 280Z valves.
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Changing a water pump has nothing to do with the timing chain. 1) Remove drive belt 2) Remove fan, fan clutch and pulley 3) Remove water pump, careful with the fasteners (use penetrant) 4) Put it back together and bleed the cooling system It's not difficult, just be careful with the radiator fins. Remove the rad if you feel like it.
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Tube frame repair? Cage and front clip replacement
Leon replied to rayaapp2's topic in Fabrication / Welding
Ray, they're all in the FSM! Check the Body section. -
Center it and adjust accordingly once it's running. Just do it by the diagram in the MJ install guide.
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You're correct, Megajolt has a trigger offset option. Up to 10deg from what I remember, but it takes away from total possible advance (not like you'll be running 50deg BTDC anyway).
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This isn't a "post your own ads" section. To post For Sale ads you must be a donating member and post in the correct forum.
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Very nicely done, you're off to a GREAT start! One tip: run it on EDIS in limp-mode before hooking up PIP and SAW signals, to make sure the install is ok before getting MJLJ involved.
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Got it, I thought you meant you were keeping the stock mounts on the body.