evildky

I know your next responce was more on point but just wanted to point about that all 70-96 Z's use the same imput shaft splining, I guess I can't confirm all, but 70,78,83T 85na, 87T, and 91TT are allt he same, so I assume all the others are as well, oh and the 240sx

I understand but I just goe the things fomr him a couple of months ago, he's been making them for years , I assume I have the "new" ones, I'll have to e-mail juan and figure out what hat sizes he made

the AZC hats are thicker on the face, which moves the whele out away frm the car, to keep the wheel in the same position reletive tot he car would require a higher offset wheel I'd think there would be enough meat to shave a bit for clearance, I was under the impression that these things were almost solid and had lots of extra meat? yeah sorry got confused, they are superlites all around I just assumed any newer hats would just be thicker on the hub surface like the AZC hats, my kit is only a couple of months old so I'd think I have the "new" setup? again I hate the thought of a spacer as this moves my wheels out further, something I'd rather not do, I'd rather have new centers machined

ugh, well I couldn't sleep not knowing if the CCW's would clear, they clear but just barely, like maybe 1/16", hella tight, I worry about heating and binding getting things to the point of contact, I wish I had known when I ordered my CCW's over a year ago my future break upgrade would change the rear offset! if I change to the newer hats my wheels will need new centers machined, spacers move the wheel out even further, which is not what I want, I'm considering grinding a bit off the dynalites to gain a bit more clearnace, thoughts?

so I got the JSK wilwood setup, been sitting on the shelf for months, I finally get started and find that the rears won't clear my wheels, it looks like the AZC hat is much thicker pushould the wheel out away from the caliper, the problem is this might mean my CCW's are no longer the correct offset, just wondering if I'm missing somethings or does both of these kits require you ro run a higher offset wheel in the rear to clean the caliper? and I havn't evne started ont he fronts.....

I welded my BOV flange onto the alum pipe muself, unfortunately my TIGskills are lacking so I coated mine in JB to seal up and potential leaks, in my case it's just to fill pinholes, the flange is securely welded but ugly and spotty in a couple of places, that being said, a good friend of mine had a boat with a cracked waterjacket, which is basically the outter housing of the block, he JB welded it once a year, it would hold for about a year and then require grinding it out and redoing it, he had done this for at least 5 years, and a lot cheaper than a new block

the only S130 I've seen with u-jointed shafts was a ZXR, at any rate the S130 pieces are plenty strong, and to run the Z31 pieeces I blieve you'd need some sustom fabbed flange adapters at teh cmpanion flange

uh, just to clear a couple things up, I belieeve you are wanting the CG30DETT, as far as I know the VQ30 didn't come turbo'd, and if you're doign a custome setup on a rod why both er with stcok intercoolers? why not air to water coolers taht you can tuck behind froa rails, and if doing a custome setup why use stock mounts? fab some brackets and use the cheap GM urethane's for a fraction of the cost and yes you can do a 2 in one out intercooler but the VG30DETT uses twin inlets so you'd then need to split that outlet no offence but it sounds like this might be a bit much for your skill level based on the questions you are asking

um....why? why do you want Z31 shafts when you already have cv's?

I got a set of nonvented brembo rotors for my z31 back in the day from strano parts, last I checked their website kinda sucked but give them a call they had great customer service

just build a harness, the stock harness is set to use the AFM and no AIT, you can run the stock AFM but one of the benefits of MS is to ditch it, and yes you can fire with the stock n/a distributoryou just gotta set it up that way, sounds like you got a lot of reading to do

the CHTS is located in the lower thermostat housing on at least one of the other heads, just put a datsun CHTS there, and if you locate the correct housing it's already there

I don't knwo about australia but state side the only models taht came with an external CAS was the 81 turbo, all other turbo's had the cas internal tot he distributor and all n/a's used a VR sensor in the distributor with no cas

I think they 240 lights will fit the 280 opening, I believe the only difference is the 280 has that extra light tot he center for the backup lihgt, you will of course need the panels to match, otherwise cut an weld I just don't see ti being worth the effort

yeah looks like marine manifolds, doesn't resemble any nissan V6 I've ever seen

educate the boy on driving, get him involved in autocross, not only is a a good safe outlet it'll actually teach him to control the car, how to regain control when that back end steps out on an expansion joint on an onramp in the rain.. power has nothign to do with the kid finding trouble or hurting himself, I knwo I found plenty of trouble in my 80 hp escort, and I had plenty of friends with low no power cars, we still did stupid things, also if the kid is involved in the build, and has his own time and money invested in it, he's more likely to protect it, I knwo kids who would purposely abuse a nice free car that was given to them because they wanted something cooler, after all the parents have unlimited resources right?

mine was a primary autodross car at the time, I did it on a regular basis and when I replaced the engien with the turbo it was still running strong and upon teardown looked fine, that head is not on a buds car, IIRCthe L24 piston height at tdc is still negetive of the deck

I just ordered a set of Wiesco custom forged through summit, the total was $908, fully custom, pins, locks, pistons and rings delivered

are you able to get and hold boost? I had a similar problem that turned out to be a failing fuelpump, once I got a bit of boost it was too much for the fuel pump so it would cut off

when I was running carbs and an L24 I upgraded to electronic distributor and ran to over 8k, granted there was no real power to be had up that high but it took it and didn't break anything, I think the valves kinda float and keep it from reving any higher

I know a guy that did a similar build, big bore long rod but only .020 over pistons and an E31 head with the L7 cam, felt liek a sportbike powerband, it came on strong about 2500 rmp and was constant up to 7000 rpm, put about 180whp IIRC

the 88-89 Z31 turbo's came with a single T25, the 90-96 Z32TT came with a pair of T25's

all psi are not created equal, just becasue a turbo can make 20 psi does not mena that it's an improvement over stock, the stock T3 flows I believe somehwere around 35 lbs/min, my T3O4E flows 53 lbs/min, you can set the both for 18 psi but the larger turbo still flows a LOT more air and therefore makes a LOT more power and I could be way off here but I believe the TDO4H flows around 40 lbs/min

easy therm allows you to use the stock CHTS but you'll need an IAT the GM one is popular, and as moby pointed out the map sensor is on board for the assymbled kits and there is no stock MAP on the Z's and you can still run the n/a distributor but the wiring and setting will be a bit different

I'm running the MSA forward mounted rear bar wiht the Z31 shafts and the hybrid sx s130 rear brakes, I had to shorten the end links severly but everything clears