evildky

I believe the T-5's are the same aside from the bellhousing, I know the imput and output splining is the same, but if his car came with something other than the T-5 you'll have to modify the trans crossmsmber

the S30 is a bit easier to get out, it's not sandwiched with a crossbar like the S130, getting the nuts for the booster off is the hardest part

I thought you had to use the jim stim to simulate the edis signal?

I see no reason why you can't reverse the swap assuming you have a 5 speed L28 trans otherwise the selector shaft for reverse won't be large enough diameter and the L28 KA swap requires no adapter plate, go back and read this thread, it's covered in detail

did you change the trans? the forks are all the same to the best of my knowledge aside form the series 1 which is obvious, there are 3 different lengths of TO collars, the bearings are all the same, and unless you pulled the slave for some reaso you shouldn't ahve to bleed the system but it certainly won't hurt, also is your clevis adjusted propery at the pedal?

thanks for the pic, how long is it? and is it straddling the pinchweld at the bottom fo the rocker?

if you've got bubbles at the masster then you have air int he master, the question is why? did you have the lines off at the master? have you tried bleeding the master?

did you calibrate for the datsun CHTS with easy therm? mine doesn't nromally get that hot

lots of us have removed them, I welded most of the tank ports shut but left one on each enr of the tank and routed them back to the filler neck so a fill up is not a problem

kinda sounds like a rather large vacume leak, was the car running fine before? why did you remove the carbs? you put the same carbs back on? the throttle shaft bushings can wear out and leak as well

I e-mailed bad dog and got a reply taht they are out of country till july......

are you kidding, DR. Who's anual budget can't afford such elaborate props

if you switch to the dodge coil pack you can run standard plug wires

megasquirt, thats the only way I've logged anything

I'm not 3 wheeling, but I do run a rear sway bar, I tried the 440's all around and the back was like skating on ice and I could not give full throttle on a straight, not corner exit, I mean a fully settled straight! I have no doubt taht you have other race cars makign as much or more power than I my point was that the FP guys at nationals are very fast and they are in the 250 hp and torque range and also run the softer tires on smaller wheels

yeah but can it make toast!?

I just don't understand why the hydraulic head is thought of as a weakpoint? VG's use hydraulic lifters and there are more of them north of 400 whp that you can shake a stick at, and I can replace an failed hydraulic lifter on the P90 in just a few minutes

I already hit 299 whp with the hydraulic head, at the time I was low compression in 2 cylinders, one worse than the other, I am running the T304E 57 trim at 20 psi, I'm sure the loss of compression help my numbers back and I am about to build a new bottome end and trying to decide if the head has to be swapped to get intot he 400 whp zone

I knwo the hydraulic head gets a lot of grief but all things considdered I've had pretty good luck, I recently trashed my motor and was going to go V6 but am currently reconsiddering, whats the most power anyone has made with the hydraulic head? if I build it I hate to think that the head would be holding back much potential power

please do enlighten us to what rates you are running? time holt pops in occasionally maybe he can clarfy his setup, as for me, I do run MSA bars frotn and rear, I am pputting down over 300 lbft of torque I believe thats a bit more than the FP guys, I also run megasquirt with a very agressive spark curve which makes the throttle more of an on off switch, and i am running V710's on 17x12's so your cantilevered slicks on smaller wheels might be a bit mroe forgiving

so my car is pretty low on the coils and I'd like to get a bit lower, but getting the jack under the car to a solid jacking point is a bit of an issue, bad dog sells jacking plates but with no diminsions and no pics of the plates applied it's hard to imagine just how well or even iff they will work, anyone tried thiers? anyone added their own? I considdered replacing the frotn seat mounting crossmsmber with a piece of boxed steel figuring that tied itno the rocker, frame rail, trans tunnel and floor pan might make for a fairly rigid jackpoint but I worry taht these areas are all pretty flimsy on their own and that the force would twist tweak or tear something, anyone got a better idea or experience?

my understanding is the national level FP guys are runnign 400 lb all the way around, as mentioned I run stiffer front and lighter rears, I found that the stiff rear had a tendancy to oversteer....A LOT! I also found a lack of straight line traction, granted I'm putting down a lot more power than the FP guys and have no trouble getting the rear to rotate and brake traction at will, also my turbo setup is gonna weigh a bit more than their carbed setups and my chassis has not had any stiffeneing at all and the 440's make the frotn feel really planted

I'm running 440 lb fron and 250 rears with tokiko's, I was hesitant but the guys at GC swore they illuminas could take it, so far so good, the car is a frotn runner at local events

I believe all the FP champs are running 400 lb springs, I am running 440 front and 250 rear on my L28ET powered car, I tried 440 rears and found I had practiaclly no straight line traction, the softer rear really helped me to put the power down, I'm also running 17x12's in back and 17x11 up front with lots of camber

no, the trans crossmember has to be reshaped a bit, the ka trans sits at a bit of an angle towards the passanger, and in the series one chassis the mount had to be moved back about 1.5" not sure ont he later chassis, it actually worked otu the same and the T5 I upgraded to alter, as for moving things back, I guess you are cutting out he firewall?